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PostPosted: September 9, 2019, 4:45 pm 
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JD is OK. Bubba is the Klutz!

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PostPosted: September 9, 2019, 9:21 pm 
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
Aint nothing more relaxing than tagging out a wiring harness.
Attachment:
IMG_5527.jpg

Then I started organizing spaghetti, first off mounting the fuse panel.
Attachment:
IMG_5528.jpg


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'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


Last edited by horchoha on December 11, 2019, 6:25 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: September 12, 2019, 1:25 am 
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
Bit of an update. About 70% done with wiring the Mouse. No boring pics of wiring.
Have the instrument gauge panel sorted out. Pics soon.
I had to figure out a conundrum of sorts. The OEM auto trans setup in 1969 had the neutral safety start switch in the console shifter assembly (I think). There is no provision for it in the auto trans case. The car now has a column shift. There was no satisfactory place to install any sort of switch that I would have been comfortable with and also be dependable.
So I said to myself "self, what would you do to safely start this car in P,R,N,D,1?"
I've discussed this extensively with Capt'n Morgan. We came up with an acceptable solution that car manufacturers use with manual transmissions and clutch pedals.
I've wired in a relay into the 'start circuit'. You turn the key to crank and start the engine, but it will not crank unless you have the brake pedal depressed :thmbsup: .

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: September 12, 2019, 10:57 pm 
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
Installed gauges and indicator lights. Wired it up.
Attachment:
IMG_5537.jpg

Test fit in car.
Attachment:
IMG_5538.jpg

Then proceeded to ring out the wiring and prove all circuits worked as designed.
Only ran into one snag, the horn relay would not work. After some troubleshooting I discovered that the low voltage side of the relay supply was wired to the start circuit. That means the horn would only work when the key was in the start position cranking the engine. Once I discovered that I had a sit down with Capt'n Morgan, to whom I said 'there was only 2 of us wiring this thing and I know I didn't screw it up, so it must be you'.
Anyhow after some rewiring the horn circuit is proven to work, and the Capt'n is forgiven. :cheers:


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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


Last edited by horchoha on December 11, 2019, 6:27 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: September 13, 2019, 4:21 pm 
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Location: Guadalupe, CA
This is coming together very nicely..

You and the Captain do good work :wink:


--ccrunner

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PostPosted: September 15, 2019, 5:22 am 
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ccrunner wrote:
This is coming together very nicely..

You and the Captain do good work :wink:


--ccrunner

Thanks ccrunner

Masked and painted the rest of the interior including the dash with Dupli-color acrylic lacquer. Installed the instrument panel, light switch, steering wheel horn assembly, license plate light assembly, windshield wiper assembly, defroster/foot heater plenums, and fuel tank. Sorted out some wiring for final wrap. I use black hockey tape to wrap wiring, it's cheap and doesn't cost very much, made of cloth so it won't get brittle with age.
Attachment:
IMG_5548.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_5551.jpg


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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


Last edited by horchoha on December 11, 2019, 6:29 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: September 17, 2019, 2:19 am 
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
Another update.
Finished installing and commissioned the E brake.
Fuel tank was installed, installed fuel lines, installed fuel. Proved the fuel lines and gas gauge works, the wiring is temporary.
Installed choke cable assembly, adjusted and commissioned.
Installed oil pressure line to gauge and commissioned. Just under 25psi at idle, 50psi at high idle.
Drained coolant, installed engine coolant temp sensor and commissioned.
Ran sig/brake light, tail light, fuel tank sending unit, and a spare wiring in wire loom to rear of car, will terminate at a later date.
Using a MOPAR 9V ignition resistor as suggested to save the points, the original FIAT setup used 12V to the coil. I've ordered and received an electronic ignition distributor from Thailand, good to have an option.
Checked dash voltmeter, 12V at idle and 13.2V at high idle with the rad fan running.
Next is to commission the GPS speedometer.
Some pics.
Attachment:
IMG_5554.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_5555.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_5556.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_5558.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_5559.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_5560.jpg

Now here's where I reach out to this forum's knowledge base.
I have an issue, not a big one, but it is an issue. When I turn the key on the rad fan starts, then turn the key to start, the engine cranks and starts (no issue). When I turn the key off there is a 2 second lag time til the ignition turns off. I thought this was strange, troubleshooting this I found that when I unplug the rad fan there is no 2 second lag time for the ignition to shut down. So the situation is that the rad fan, which is simple DC motor with permanent magnets shuts down, turns into a 12V generator as it free wheels to a stop. As it's freewheeling to a stop it's back feeding 12V to the coil, which creates the 2 second lag time for the engine to shut down. Somewhere in my brain I think there is a solution to this by installing a zenor diode in the fan 12V wire to prevent it from backfeeding voltage.
My problem is I skipped that class, and need help in figuring out what kind and how to wire in a diode to achieve a solution to this issue.
Capt'n Morgan has disappointed me on this issue.


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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


Last edited by horchoha on December 11, 2019, 6:38 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: September 17, 2019, 2:49 am 
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Perry, do you have to have the fan to run all the time? Is it possible to install a temperature switch? Just thinking.

Looking great!

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PostPosted: September 17, 2019, 7:53 am 
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You could use a diode or a transistor to block the reverse feed from the fan. But I feel that is very wasteful of energy and causes heat when the fan is operating. I'd recommend using a common auto relay and finding a 12V circuit that shuts off immediately upon key being turned off. This would be the circuit that feeds the coil of the relay. Does your voltmeter slowly drop or immediately drop when the car is turned off? That might be an indicator of a circuit that shuts down immediately. Aux circuits from the key switch "might" also shut off.

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PostPosted: September 17, 2019, 8:15 am 
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You could use a diode (SNIP) and causes heat when the fan is operating.
In a former life, before computers ran everything, there were these control panels for the downhole tools we used in the well logging trucks. (Very scientific, don't try to understand.) There was a zener diode attached to the back of the frame of each panel. Occasionally, you'd be running a log and there'd be this little "POP" sound and a puff of smoke out of the back of the rack and that panel would go dark and that pen would drift off-scale on the log. (Very scientific, don't try to understand.)

We put heat sinks (finned metal pieces) under the zeners and that helped but they'd still blow every now and then. I carried a couple of spares all the time and I got to where I could replace one in about 3 minutes. Seemed like forever when the rig boss was standing outside the truck yelling "Are you back up and runnin' yet???"

Does any of this relate to your fan issue? Beats me... (Very scientific, I don't understand it neither.) But seeing the word "Zener" sure did bring back memories... :mrgreen:

Peace, Love and Zeners-
JDK

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PostPosted: September 17, 2019, 8:52 am 
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Instead of getting the fan power from the ignition circuit hook it to the accessory circuit and you end problem.


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PostPosted: September 17, 2019, 10:26 am 
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Cool seat(s), Perry. Where'd you get those. I see an adjuster know, so they likely are not the originals.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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PostPosted: September 17, 2019, 10:39 am 
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GonzoRacer wrote:
Quote:
You could use a diode (SNIP) and causes heat when the fan is operating.
In a former life, before computers ran everything, there were these control panels for the downhole tools we used in the well logging trucks. (Very scientific, don't try to understand.) There was a zener diode attached to the back of the frame of each panel. Occasionally, you'd be running a log and there'd be this little "POP" sound and a puff of smoke out of the back of the rack and that panel would go dark and that pen would drift off-scale on the log. (Very scientific, don't try to understand.)

We put heat sinks (finned metal pieces) under the zeners and that helped but they'd still blow every now and then. I carried a couple of spares all the time and I got to where I could replace one in about 3 minutes. Seemed like forever when the rig boss was standing outside the truck yelling "Are you back up and runnin' yet???"

Does any of this relate to your fan issue? Beats me... (Very scientific, I don't understand it neither.) But seeing the word "Zener" sure did bring back memories... :mrgreen:

Peace, Love and Zeners-
JDK


Nice story. And I can relate coming from many years in electronics industry and instrument repair and design. However JD, the only place you saw the word "Zener" was in your post. And now in mine. :boxing:

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: September 17, 2019, 10:45 am 
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John Hancock wrote:
Instead of getting the fan power from the ignition circuit hook it to the accessory circuit and you end problem.


Yes, of course you are correct. I meant to say Accessory when I said Aux circuit. Mia culpa. With a relay, which I am sure he is using, the coil is the only thing necessary to be powered via the "accessory" line. This keeps the high current of the fans away from of the ign switch contacts. In fact, the fan's power could wired thru the relay directly from a fused battery line. Thanks for correcting. :cheers:

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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: September 17, 2019, 2:50 pm 
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rx7locost wrote:
Nice story. And I can relate coming from many years in electronics industry and instrument repair and design. However JD, the only place you saw the word "Zener" was in your post. And now in mine. :boxing:
Hi Chuck- Actually, our boy Perry used it in his post.
horchoha wrote:
Somewhere in my brain I think there is a solution to this by installing a zenor diode in the fan 12V wire to prevent it from backfeeding voltage.
So, I'm not totally delusional. And I guess (maybe) neither are you! :mrgreen:

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"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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