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PostPosted: October 15, 2018, 8:23 pm 
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I think i spoke too soon.. that must be the gear selector down low?

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PostPosted: October 16, 2018, 10:41 am 
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Location: Bakersfield, CA
airframefixer wrote:
I think i spoke too soon.. that must be the gear selector down low?

Yes, you're right.. gear selector low, and the clutch push rod up tight near the Hawk piece..

I got a bit lucky on the Hawk adapter as it's really made for a Honda CBR, but my 30mm/13 spline shaft is the same, and out of sheer luck the spline engagement on mine jusssst fell within specs and didn't need any more trimming.. Really fits like it was made for this motor..

--ccrunner


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My '72 Honda N600 build log (bike engine in a microcar)...
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My '63 Volvo 1800 with a turbo inline 4 build log (LNF Ecotec compliments a Svelte Swede)
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My '59 Berkeley SE492 / Honda VFR800 transplant build: "A Berkeley With Bite!"
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PostPosted: October 17, 2018, 4:29 pm 
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Joined: October 10, 2010, 10:26 am
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Location: Bakersfield, CA
Run Whatcha Brung...

I entered an ATV race a few weeks back in District 37, and left a piece of the bike out on 10 mile loop... I knew it when it happened as the bike was getting progressively louder, but I thought it had just lost it's seal at the head/header pipe, so I kept going and didn't check it- that was dumb :roll:

I've since learned that mufflers for these dual exhaust Raptors are expen$ive :shock: I posted up on the D37 website where I thought the muffler might be, and that if anyone finds it, please give me a shout out.. What do you know?.. an MX guy found it a week later just laying out in the desert where I left it- yay! :cheers:

Turns out he'll bring it to a November race for me and I'll pick it up there.. In the meantime, I have no left side muffler... Not a big deal, except my buddy wanted to meet up to ride in Pismo this last weekend, so I had to do something quick and dirty (and cheap!) to get a day of riding in..

I went out to the shed and found an old unused car muffler, and hacked it up for this one-day shot.. As you would imagine, it sounded like poop, but it was quiet enough to keep me from getting kicked off the beach..

Not car stuff, but kinda car stuff if you think about it :lol:

ccrunner


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My '72 Honda N600 build log (bike engine in a microcar)...
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 36&t=14452

My '63 Volvo 1800 with a turbo inline 4 build log (LNF Ecotec compliments a Svelte Swede)
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

My '59 Berkeley SE492 / Honda VFR800 transplant build: "A Berkeley With Bite!"
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PostPosted: October 17, 2018, 5:05 pm 
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Joined: October 10, 2010, 10:26 am
Posts: 1117
Location: Bakersfield, CA
More quad stuff..

At my rapidly advancing age, I really have no business going out and racing quads.. and more to the point, I have no business being on this particular quad.. The previous owner modded this motor up to where it's a bit spooky-fast, and a bit unreliable (there always seems to be a direct correlation with those two things :lol: ).. I bought it more for the aftermarket stuff and the way it's set up than I did for the hot motor..

Anyway, I went out to Pismo with my Hillbilly muffler, and found that it was overheating in an odd, unpredictable way.. It'd be fine for awhile, then the temp would spike and I'd have to stop to get it cooled back down.. got it home this past Sunday and found that it's making bubbles in the overflow tank while running.. I've also since learned that the thermostat is shot- kind of a wonder it would cool at all :?

As long as I'm going after the head gasket, I might as well pull the 13.5:1 :shock: piston that's in there too.. I'm all for a bit of extra power, but this thing is on race gas, and I'm not a good enough rider to take advantage it.. So this week/next week she's getting an 11:1 piston that can run on pump gas, and will ideally keep me from killing myself.. As it was, this little missile wouldn't allow for any rider error...

--ccrunner


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My '72 Honda N600 build log (bike engine in a microcar)...
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 36&t=14452

My '63 Volvo 1800 with a turbo inline 4 build log (LNF Ecotec compliments a Svelte Swede)
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

My '59 Berkeley SE492 / Honda VFR800 transplant build: "A Berkeley With Bite!"
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PostPosted: October 17, 2018, 5:20 pm 
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Bikes are safer, they don't roll over you when you off!

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PostPosted: October 18, 2018, 7:52 am 
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Posts: 418
A dual exhaust on a single cylinder engine?? That just seems like extra weight and more parts to fall off!

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PostPosted: October 18, 2018, 10:46 am 
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Location: Bakersfield, CA
Laminar wrote:
A dual exhaust on a single cylinder engine?? That just seems like extra weight and more parts to fall off!

Excellent catch Laminar, and I couldn't agree more... "...more parts to fall off!" :roll:

The Yamaha OEM exhaust is a 2-into-one design (oddly this 4 valve single cylinder engine does in fact have 2 separate exhaust ports coming out of the head), and I think that Yamaha head design was a gift to the aftermarket to let them convince the end user that you 'need' a dual exhaust on your Raptor to get that extra .002% gain out of the motor (never mind adding weight and unneeded complexity)... Of course a dual exhaust means more $$ for more parts.. I bought the bike with the dual setup, so the investment has already been made.. my thought is I'll get the duals back on, and let the next owner bask in the .002% gain :lol:

--ccrunner

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My '72 Honda N600 build log (bike engine in a microcar)...
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 36&t=14452

My '63 Volvo 1800 with a turbo inline 4 build log (LNF Ecotec compliments a Svelte Swede)
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

My '59 Berkeley SE492 / Honda VFR800 transplant build: "A Berkeley With Bite!"


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PostPosted: October 18, 2018, 11:52 am 
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Posts: 1117
Location: Bakersfield, CA
This car is impossibly small :shock:

This is an odd little period in the build where I'm trying to consider and predict too many things at once.. I want to mount the engine, but first I must position the rear end.. to do that I've got to resolve some rear end angle problems.. I also need to design the frame for the rear end of the car, which presents yet another challenge; the seating position of the driver.

I'm designing this car for me, but the reality is I'm building a second Berk for resale, and I'm worried about my design and having enough room for the 'average' person to fit- this is a requirement that this car doesn't satisfy by design- it's just so small.. I'm 6'2" with a 34 inseam, and I feel too cramped to stay in the driver's seat for too long.. I need to find 2 to 3 inches somewhere to allow the driver's seat to move back a bit, but I'd like not to stretch the car if I can help it, as I like the body as-is, and I don't want to change its proportions (pretty soon I'll want to widen it too, and suddenly it's not a "Berkeley" in character anymore..)

This may be a bit confusing, but just for grins, I took the rear section of the car, and slid it backwards 1", 2", 3" on the punt (see tape in pic) to see where the seating arrangement felt 'just right' (call me Goldie Locks :wink: ).. I't amazing what a difference 2 to 3 inches makes!

So I'd like to 'find' 2-3 inches in this chassis/body to move the seat(s) rearward.. I can stretch the doors (and Punt) by 2" and it would be barely noticeable, or an option I like better, is to channel a section of the body out just behind the seat and move the seat back rearward in the car by 2-3" (see pic with lines).. this option will not change the exterior dimensions of the car at all, and it will simply move the driver/seat rearward in the car's body..

This is a body/fiberglass mod I'll go after later, but it must be considered now, as it will change the underlying frame design (cross bracing) to avoid a frame rework later.. In reality, I can design the frame to accept the body mod later, but if I never pursue the body mod for whatever reason, it won't matter and it won't affect anything

Again, confusing, but a consideration that may make things much easier later..

--ccrunner


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_________________
My '72 Honda N600 build log (bike engine in a microcar)...
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 36&t=14452

My '63 Volvo 1800 with a turbo inline 4 build log (LNF Ecotec compliments a Svelte Swede)
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

My '59 Berkeley SE492 / Honda VFR800 transplant build: "A Berkeley With Bite!"


Last edited by ccrunner on October 18, 2018, 12:06 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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PostPosted: October 18, 2018, 12:01 pm 
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Joined: October 10, 2010, 10:26 am
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Location: Bakersfield, CA
Oct 16, 2018

A pumpkin, but not for Halloween :lol:

So I ordered yet another 1996-2005 Toyota Rav4 TORSEN differential, and I received yet another open diff that they promised was a limited slip.. I'll work on getting a 'true' limited slip diff later, but at least this one allows for some mock up/ planning..

My cardboard driveshaft reveals that the driveline needs to be way over to the passenger side, which was expected.. I'm going to have problems using ujoints to get that pumpkin centered though, so I'm doing some head-scratching trying to get acceptable angles that results in a workable design..

--ccrunner


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My '72 Honda N600 build log (bike engine in a microcar)...
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 36&t=14452

My '63 Volvo 1800 with a turbo inline 4 build log (LNF Ecotec compliments a Svelte Swede)
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

My '59 Berkeley SE492 / Honda VFR800 transplant build: "A Berkeley With Bite!"
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PostPosted: October 18, 2018, 1:19 pm 
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Joined: March 15, 2018, 6:03 am
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For what it's worth my feeling is that lengthening the car 3" will hardly be noticed... Moving the seat rearwards within the existing body would be uncomfortable...


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PostPosted: October 19, 2018, 10:08 am 
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In the sketch you drew, what if you squared up and centered the diff, moved the guibo to the engine end of the driveshaft (should be more effective there I think), and used a single CV joint at the diff? Should tick all of your boxes I think.

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PostPosted: October 19, 2018, 10:48 am 
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rx7locost wrote:
In the sketch you drew, what if you squared up and centered the diff, moved the guibo to the engine end of the driveshaft (should be more effective there I think), and used a single CV joint at the diff? Should tick all of your boxes I think.

I think you're onto something there Chuck!!

I'll check when I get home, but if I have room for the giubo up around the engine's water pump/snail, I think your idea will work perfectly.. the CV would offer a bit of slip, allow me to center the diff, and should be able to handle my 5 degree offset..

Love it!! :cheers:

--ccrunner

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My '72 Honda N600 build log (bike engine in a microcar)...
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 36&t=14452

My '63 Volvo 1800 with a turbo inline 4 build log (LNF Ecotec compliments a Svelte Swede)
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

My '59 Berkeley SE492 / Honda VFR800 transplant build: "A Berkeley With Bite!"


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PostPosted: October 19, 2018, 12:47 pm 
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Every Guibo equipped driveshaft I have seen has the Guibo at the front/engine end.
Not sure of their max recommended angle but I'm pretty sure the GT6+ goes well beyond 5º.

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PostPosted: October 19, 2018, 2:42 pm 
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How about keeping everything square by using a parallel shaft gearbox in front of the diff?

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PostPosted: October 19, 2018, 3:41 pm 
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ccrunner wrote:
rx7locost wrote:
In the sketch you drew, what if you squared up and centered the diff, moved the guibo to the engine end of the driveshaft (should be more effective there I think), and used a single CV joint at the diff? Should tick all of your boxes I think.

I think you're onto something there Chuck!!
Mama always said Chuck was the smart one in the family... :mrgreen:

:cheers:
JD "I'm the Purty One" Kemp

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