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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: April 26, 2024, 1:28 pm 
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Joined: November 15, 2009, 9:58 pm
Posts: 471
Location: Port Angeles. Wa
I have done a bit of fiberglass with my projects and found a regular process that works well for molds.
3 coats of green mold release wax that is buffed by hand almost immediately after application and then 2+ coats of pva allows an easy release with a very smooth surface.
The green wax does not contain silicone so the pva will coat it smoothly and not fish eye.
I also use a lot of peel ply (Dacron polyester) over layups to give a smooth finished surface or a "no sanding needed" bonding surface for the next layup. Especially good over mat. Does not conform well so is best used in strips as needed. Be SURE to remove the peel ply before the next layup or prep!!!! I like the peel ply with a red thread to show that it is there!
Green wax and peel ply are available at laminating suppliers - well worth the money!!

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My build log viewtopic.php?f=36&t=10658&start=0 NOW NAMED =The Wycked 7

My other build log viewtopic.php?f=18&t=15162 The Skayt'R6


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PostPosted: May 13, 2024, 1:05 pm 
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Joined: October 10, 2010, 10:26 am
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Location: Guadalupe, CA
RocCityMsport wrote:
Hi CC!
It's been a while, but I thought some may find this useful. I have made fiberglass molds in the past by carving polyfoam, then I would cover the foam in good ol' clear packing tape, being careful to lay it as flat as possible. Nothing sticks to the stuff! I would still put a coating of Simonize on it to help with the release, but it has yet to let me down. The trick is not to get any wrinkles in the tape where the epoxy can get under it, that tends to make a mess. You are left with little lines in the surface when you are done, but they are only about .004" high, so they are easily sanded away.
BTW- I pm'd you the other day.

Nathan! I just today (May 13) got your PM.. weird.. I responded with a potential parts source for you.. please let me know if my PM does not reach you..

-----------------------

May 12, 2024

My VFR1200 motorcycle just sold, clearing up some much needed garage space. I originally planned to source that bike's motor/ dual clutch setup to build Berkeley #2, but I've abandon those plans (I'm fickle that way), and now once THIS Berk (this build log) is done, then I'm going to restomod a 1960 MGA coupe.. Bottom line, my small garage just became a bit more user friendly, so it's back on the Berk :cheers:

Top pic is of the new trunk lid getting a mild rework in some fragile areas (underside shown), including one nasty air bubble that needed fixing.. Soon I'll skim the 'top' of the lid with filler/ glaze, then work on its latching system..

bottom pic: I raised the car to aid in accessing/reshaping the grille opening to its final configuration, and I realized this offered a rarely seen view of the underside of this car.. Of note, the 'flat' exhaust, which despite being a bit unconventional, works surprisingly well- who knew?! :shock:

--ccrunner


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Dean

1972 Honda N600 Restomod "ccrunner's N600 VFR800 repower"

1963 Volvo P1800 Restomod
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

1959 Berkeley SE492 Restomod...
viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19397

"ccrunner's 1960 MGA coupe Restomod" found on MGExp.com


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PostPosted: May 13, 2024, 5:46 pm 
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Location: Guadalupe, CA
Reworking the Grille (Opening) Shape..

The factory grille shape is one of my least favorite elements of this marque.. You have this cool little Cobra-esque body, and then there's this giant, gulping fishmouth grille. I know they did it for a reason; the factory motors were 2-strokes, and needed all of the air flow and cooling that they could get. Because I'm now liquid cooled, the cave-like OEM grille opening is no longer needed.

So here is my chance to both shrink and raise the grille. I could go even smaller than what's in the coming pics, but I really need those yellow fog lights up front on this car, and they seem to live well on either side of the radiator, tucked back into the grille, which results in a narrow, wide ellipse that is somewhat Jaguar-like..

One consideration that I'm trying to be mindful of is to raise the 'chin' of the car (from factory spec anyway), and that effort will require that I 'flatten' the lower half of the grille aperture just a bit..

*Top photo is of an OEM grille opening.. Note the chunk of body (yellow box) that extends down below the natural flat area that extends from fender (bottom) to fender; this is the plane I'd like to not break in my quest for a lean, shapely grille..

--ccrunner


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Dean

1972 Honda N600 Restomod "ccrunner's N600 VFR800 repower"

1963 Volvo P1800 Restomod
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

1959 Berkeley SE492 Restomod...
viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19397

"ccrunner's 1960 MGA coupe Restomod" found on MGExp.com


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PostPosted: May 13, 2024, 6:00 pm 
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Posts: 2050
Location: Guadalupe, CA
Grille Cont'd..

I've been apprehensive about this particular mod as I don't want to get it wrong.. I've seen several builds lose continuity as they alter a grille opening- it's not an exact thing- super subjective, but your eye knows when the grille shape is wrong for the car. For my part, I don't think this car will get a true 'grille' (decorative piece that fills the grille opening), mostly because I don't want to bury the fog lights behind a grille- I like them exposed in the opening.

Once I fab in the body below the grille opening (the 'chin' part of the car), then I'll evaluate if the open grille needs an adornment. I will be painting everything behind the grille (radiator/ misc brackets) satin black.. If she needs anything, I'm considering chopping down a Jaguar "Motif Bar" (OEM Jag horizontal bar) and fitting it between the fog lights to help add another long-ish horizontal element to make the car look lower and wider..

At this point in this mod, I'm taking some of the upper/lower symmetry out of the grille in an effort to raise the bottom half of the grille just enough to bring it up above the imaginary flat line that connects the driver and passenger lower fenders together.. I may cheat this line back down later, depending on how things shape out once I fab in the lower valance..

--ccrunner


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Dean

1972 Honda N600 Restomod "ccrunner's N600 VFR800 repower"

1963 Volvo P1800 Restomod
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

1959 Berkeley SE492 Restomod...
viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19397

"ccrunner's 1960 MGA coupe Restomod" found on MGExp.com


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PostPosted: May 13, 2024, 8:58 pm 
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Location: West Chicago,IL
Me likey!

I think the Jag-style single bar would look good. Have you thought about a Ferrari-style grill. That is the first thing that came to me. Something like this:


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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: May 14, 2024, 10:55 am 
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rx7locost wrote:
Me likey!

I think the Jag-style single bar would look good. Have you thought about a Ferrari-style grill. That is the first thing that came to me. Something like this:

Yes Chuck!.. that is a design I rather like if I do in fact fill the void.. I think it would look graceful and period appropriate.. I want to see how the opening looks empty, and if it needs something more than a floating horizonal bar, this design would be my go-to :cheers:

--ccrunner

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Dean

1972 Honda N600 Restomod "ccrunner's N600 VFR800 repower"

1963 Volvo P1800 Restomod
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

1959 Berkeley SE492 Restomod...
viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19397

"ccrunner's 1960 MGA coupe Restomod" found on MGExp.com


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PostPosted: May 14, 2024, 11:30 am 
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Joined: October 23, 2010, 2:40 am
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ccrunner wrote:
...At this point in this mod, I'm taking some of the upper/lower symmetry out of the grille in an effort to raise the bottom half of the grille just enough to bring it up above the imaginary flat line that connects the driver and passenger lower fenders together.. I may cheat this line back down later, depending on how things shape out once I fab in the lower valance..
I wouldn't expect one could discern the "raise" of the lower grill opening line when standing next to the car and it is sitting on the ground. Besides, as JD would note, "Symmetry is overrated."

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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