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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: June 16, 2018, 4:54 am 
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Perry-
If I remember my vector sums from Physics 101 back in the year 19(mumble-mumble) it goes something like:
Force1 X Lever Arm1 = Force2 X Lever Arm 2.

Your drawing shows a 72" lever arm and you measured/approximated a 60 lb force needed to lift the load.
If you reduce the length of the lever arm by a factor of 6, as in going from 72" to 12", then it would increase the force by a factor of 6 as in 60 X 6 or 360 lbs. Doesn't sound right, but... I think it is.

Maybe some of the smart kids will chime in here soon...
:cheers:
JDK

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PostPosted: June 16, 2018, 7:17 am 
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Can u put a scale under the proposed lift point to see what the actual weight is?
It should be less than 360lbs since not all the weight is 60" past the pivot.
still need a smart kid to chime in, though


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PostPosted: June 16, 2018, 9:51 am 
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JD's math is right. Are you using the struts only to help lift? Or do you intend on using them to hold things in the open position? Your geometry and # rating will change depending on your goal. How do you plan on attaching the one strut on the driver's side. Won't it get in the way of your access door?


Speaking of access doors, is there any reason you didn't extend the hinge all the way to the lower tube? I would think that the triangle area left will eventually get you in the back or head.

You might PM to trialsmangasgas. He has a similar type trailer I think.


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PostPosted: June 20, 2018, 2:19 am 
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rx7locost wrote:
is there any reason you didn't extend the hinge all the way to the lower tube?


Yes, I'm trying to watch my weight. My goal is fit through the size of egress I've fabricated and this gives me incentive! Plus there is a locating pin a couple of inches past the door on the lower rail that keeps the egress/access door/hatch and lower frame in the same plane (did I say that correct?).

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PostPosted: June 22, 2018, 1:31 am 
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Bit of an update. Final welding on 3/4" tubing. Purchased a couple of 200# gas springs to ease the pain on my back when opening the rear hatch. Finished painting the enclosure frame. Started fitting aluminum sheeting to frame. Again using Clecos, enabling me to fit the sheets, then remove them to remove swarf, fit them again before final riveting. Clecos are spaced every second rivet hole. Rivets are 4" apart, which is safe spacing as long as VNE is under 140mph, anything over that I would have to space the rivets 2" apart :lol: .
For me this part of the build is relaxing work, pink is a passive color. Cutting sheets with a carbide knife and straight edge, no shears allowed :wink:


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Perry

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"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


Last edited by horchoha on December 7, 2019, 1:25 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: June 22, 2018, 8:17 pm 
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Just thought I'd do a bit of show and tell on how I cut .040" aluminum sheet, again. I do this also on the 7's.

No matter how careful or relaxed I am, I can not cut a straight line with shears, a least not to my critical eye.

So this is how I do it. I use a 1/8" x 1 1/4" x 8' long straight edge. I also use a 1" sq 4' and 8' long piece of tubing for clamping the sheet along the edge of the table.

Measure the sheet to be cut, clamp the straight edge to the marks. Use carbide scribe to score the sheet. I usually score the line about 14 times, 2 very light passes at first to set the line, then moderate pressure to score the line.
Attachment:
IMG_3800.JPG

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IMG_3801.JPG

Remove the straight edge and sweep the swarf from the score line.
Attachment:
IMG_3802.JPG

Then using square tube I clamp the sheet to match the score line to the edge of the table (it helps when the table has a sharp edge to it).
Attachment:
IMG_3803.JPG

Then using both hands, palm on sheet along score line and other hand bending sheet down. It usually takes about 3-4 passes, using greater force each time, to bend the sheet along the score line. Once resistance starts to lessen, I bend the sheet up and down a bit at a time till the score breaks.
Attachment:
IMG_3804.JPG

Attachment:
IMG_3805.JPG

I then take a file and dress the edge. Prevents bleeding when working with the sheet in the future.


The following pics use the same process to score and break a 82" sheet. This method results in a very satisfactory edge to the critical eye.
Attachment:
IMG_3806.JPG

Attachment:
IMG_3807.JPG

Attachment:
IMG_3808.JPG

Attachment:
IMG_3809.JPG


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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


Last edited by horchoha on December 7, 2019, 1:39 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: June 23, 2018, 5:53 am 
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Very clever, Perry! Nice straight line "cuts"... Mama always said you wuz th' smart one in the family... :mrgreen:

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: June 23, 2018, 2:22 pm 
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Nice idea, Perry.

Thanks,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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PostPosted: June 23, 2018, 2:52 pm 
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Great technique, Perry. An airplane-builder friend gave me the same cutting tool a while back. Since then I've been using the carbide-cutter / straight-edge approach on 0.050" aluminum, but trying to cut most of the way through. Works nicely, but very time consuming. Your score-then-bend-till-it-breaks approach should shorten the process considerably. Thanks for the tip!

+1 on filing the cut edge. Don't ask me how I know. :BH:
Alternatively, one could use the un-filed edge to shave with.

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PostPosted: June 24, 2018, 7:04 am 
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Quote:
+1 on filing the cut edge. Don't ask me how I know
Sounds like you had a Team Slotus moment. "Bubba! Fetch the bandaids and Mercurochrome!"


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PostPosted: June 26, 2018, 8:32 pm 
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GonzoRacer wrote:
Mercurochrome

Holy heck, JD, that takes me back 50 years. Can you still buy Mercurochrome? I remember my mom putting it on my wounds, the stinging, sooo much red, couldn't tell whether it was blood or Mercurochrome, ohh the pain, the horrible pain. Ahhh, the good old day memories.

Bit of a progress update. Front part of the trailer panel riveted. Still need to sheet the 3 doors. The center door is removable to allow me to put my winch in place if need be. Beginning to cut, fit, and 'Cleco' rear panels.
Attachment:
IMG_3820.JPG

Attachment:
IMG_3819.JPG

Attachment:
IMG_3823.JPG

Attachment:
IMG_3821.JPG


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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: June 26, 2018, 8:41 pm 
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Not exactly an "Airstream" is it?
Probably will not matter much from behind the hulking wall towing it. :wink:

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PostPosted: June 29, 2018, 12:53 am 
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RichardSIA wrote:
Not exactly an "Airstream" is it?

Nope, I'd have to charge more for airstream pictures :D
RichardSIA wrote:
Probably will not matter much from behind the hulking wall towing it.

Exactly what I figure!



Got all the big sheeting fitted, drilled, swarf removed, and set all the rivets. Some pics.
The picture's don't do it justice, it's bigger than what the pictures look like (that's what I tell the wifey anyhow). She said 'wishful thinking' :D
Next is covering the 2 front side doors and front cover that allows access to the winch mount (heaven forbid I'd have to use it).


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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


Last edited by horchoha on December 7, 2019, 1:51 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: June 29, 2018, 3:49 am 
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Looking forward to the "Tuft test" pics.
Will the trailer be "Drafting" the tow vehicle at average speed, or acting as a big air-brake?
Image
Probably depends on how short the tongue and hitch are.

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PostPosted: June 29, 2018, 12:38 pm 
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It's looking really good, Perry. And, it's definitely not just another aluminum siding, over-decaled, toy hauler either. It's quite innovative.

My only concern is the unlocked, sliding bolts on the side hatch(es). You just know that somewhere in your travels, some dummy is going to have to open them to see what's in the trailer. Of course, he's also going to leave the bolt open when he closes the hatch, so you can discover that on the Interstate when it starts banging around in the wind.

I really like those suitcase latches - simple, strong, locking.

@RichardSIA
You know that tuft test wouldn't be a bad idea. Perry's RV may already have a rear video camera for backing up. I predict it will improve his aero performance because it extends the length of his envelope (RV + trailer), which will let the airstreams come together more gradually at the back.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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