LocostUSA.com

Next up in the process was to rebuild the rear springs. I know many people simply buy new springs. From what I read, it is a crap shoot as to what you actually get as there are so many suppliers and the reports of any one vendor seem to vary too. I disassembled the springs, leaf by leaf. Then using various wire wheels and other tools of destruction removed the rust. I radiused the ends of each leaf to help reduce any sticking when flexed and then painted each leaf with Rust oleum. I purchased new nylon spring liners and put them in where the original ones were. As many here have mentioned, the original leaf keepers/clamps are virtually not reusable. I ended up purchasing new Kwik Klamps. They won't be here for a few more days.




Last Summer I stopped at BMC Auto (AKA Classic Auto LED) in Isanti, Minnesota. While there, Brian demo'd his LED taillights on an actual car. I was impressed so much I bought a pair. I managed to install them in the taillight housings this week and tested them out. They are now boxed up and on the shelf until final assembly. Expensive? Yes! Impressive? WOW is all I can say.

I settled on a way to secure the manifold cover mentioned earlier. I made 4 bent brackets that fit 4 of the upper intake manifold bolts. Attached to them are 2 cross brackets. All of this was made of 3/4" x 1/8" steel-strip. Due to my cover design that has a step, the front 2 supports are different from the rear ones. Since I wasn't sure exactly how tall these should be, in addition to the inconsistency of my home bending skills(?), I made them adjustable height. The cross brackets have one 10-32 Rivnut in each that rides in slots on the vertical brackets.

I used 4 pieces of 3M Command hook-loop hangers stuck to the cover and the cross brackets to secure it in place. The cover now is secured and fits amazing. To remove the cover All I need to do is just lift the cover off the hook-loops. My only hope is that the adhesive doesn't dry out due to the engine heat. Time will tell. If necessary, I can remove the adhesive from the Command strips and re-glue them with a more robust epoxy.





In my spare time, I have been helping out a friend who is building a modified MGB. Yeah, spare time (?). It took quite a bit longer than I thought it would. One part of his many design features includes using an MG RV8 dash. I have been figuring out how to implement the RV8's switches along with Autometer gauges. One goal was to make the dash easily removable. The Dash is done, The body wiring now needs to be made to match. Here is a pic of the assembled dash as it sits today.



Next up is the fuel pump. I am a firm believer in the in-tank pumps. I have searched and searched for an OEM assy that met my needs with no result. I decided on a Tanks Inc, PA-2 assembly. That was delivered yesterday. As soon as I finish up the rear springs and can clear up some space, that job is next. Stay tuned.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Spring clamp day

Out of the box the Kwik Clamps do not fit exactly. These were designed to locate to holes in the spring. The problem is that the MG springs have a raised bump of the same diameter. Not an issue for a recovering Locoster. I flattened the half-punch out and then drilled them out. then they fit just fine. Since I had 10 clips and there are 12 required, I had to adapt. I chose to use 8 clips to keep things balanced. Whether this will be enough to keep the springs aligned or not, time will tell. Push comes to shove; I can always buy 2 more and install the 4 missing clips in situ, I hope.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

One of the things that liked about my MGA was the fly-off hand brake. For those who do not know, a fly-off handbrake is one that requires pressing the button to set the latch. A simple tug (no pressing the button) releases the latch. The reverse of a standard handbrake. I just finished modifying my MGB handbrake to a fly-off style. I welded a tab on the existing pawl and reformed the MGB's wire link to match. In the process, I found the pawl was fairly sloppy on the pivot, so I welded 3 balls to the handle, under the pawl and filed them down to the level of the step on the pivot. Now it is much less floppy. I also added a stop on the handle to keep the thumb knob from extending too far. It works! I kept the original hole for the wire link in case I ever want to go back to original operation.

I look at this mod as not only meeting my desires but providing a small level of theft protection against thieves that know MGBs.

This picture is of an original handbrake lever taken from eBay.


This is my modified version

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Chuck, that finished engine looks beautiful : If any buddy ask about the make of the engine, you can reply it could be dyslexia. I saw an MGB last week, at a cars show, with the same engine, yours look 10 times better!

The dash turned out beautiful! Looks like something from a Rolls or Bentley.

_________________
Thom

Thanks guys. My only involvement was the wiring. I added plugs to allow quick and easy dash removal should anything require servie of changes.

Yesterday, I installed the front springs in preparation to installation to the body. The plan was to work on the radiator plumbing, I suspect that I need to relocate the radiator to provide clearance to the front crossmember. I took the body off the rotisserie and on to a sawhorse and 2 jackstands, just as before. That's when I realized exactly why the springs were left out. Disregarding the fact that it is a bee-atch to compress them for installation, MG in their infinite engineering ability,decided to prevent you frim instlling 2 of the 4 bolts with the springs in place. I will have to remove the springs, install the 2 bolts and then reinstall the springs again!

I am currently in the middle of downloading an update to my Kona navigation. Then I'll get to the tire shop to pick up my Escape's tire, it had a valve seal leak. Then change 20 lug nuts. I hate those lug nuts that have the thin SS cover. It rusted so badly that I had to beat the lug wrench on then pry it off. I was in the middle of a light rain when my low tire light came on 20 miles from home. MAybe I'll have time to work on the MG today.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I forgot to include the pics of the fuel pump install. It went fairly easily. I had to flatten the raised ribs to seal the pump cover to the tank. I also cut out the boot floor for access.





Front springs were removed, forward crossmember bolts inserted and springs re-installed, hopefully for the last time. Fortunately, MG included holes to insert a rod that holds those pesky mounting bolts from dropping into the bowls of the crossmember. Then the assembly was presented to the body and secured. I decided to undo the cut-work for radiator and AC condenser that I did earlier and move the cutout about 2" forward, this will allow more clearance for the lower radiator hose to snake around the crossmember. I am balancing the hose space with the tall Mustang radiator which will be lower as I move forward. I don't want to expose too much below the car.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I've been keeping a low profile as of late. I threw out my back again. This time was not nearly as bad as a couple years ago. Self-doctoring has helped. I felt good and did some work on the car, then had a slight relapse. I kept low for a couple of weeks. I am just now getting back to work on the car.

I cut more off the front apron to gain a couple more inches clearance for the lower radiator hose. If this isn't enough I don't know what the next step is. I made a piece to close up the back edges and have it tacked into place making it a boxed beam as was originally there. I still have to close up some holes. Finicky work at best.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Hey Chuck.. I don't mean to take your build backwards, but I'm confused, is the ebrake in the pic from an MGA or MGB?.. I need to change my setup, and this handle/ assembly may fit the bill

--ccrunner

_________________
Dean

1972 Honda N600 Restomod "ccrunner's N600 VFR800 repower"

1963 Volvo P1800 Restomod
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

1959 Berkeley SE492 Restomod...
viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19397

"ccrunner's 1960 MGA coupe Restomod" found on MGExp.com

No problem. The first one pictured was a stock version from the MGB. I think I have spare original style handbrake. I would be willing to mail it to you if you think it will work, I'd have to look in a few boxes to make sure. Just let me know via PM with your info.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I guess I should post something, although there is little to report on the GT side of things. Honestly, I don't know where the time goes. Actually I do.

I was in a mad rush to get my friend's MGB with 3.4L conversion ready for the annual British Car Festival. We spent many hours working on that car. Unfortunately, we did not make it. The car refused to comply to our efforts. would cough and pop but would not run, Various things were fixed in those efforts, two of which had to be reversed as I found the Camaro FSM had some errors which I had right per the FSM. OOps!

I am now down to needing to reverse 2 wires on the crank sensor for a 2nd time to try our next run, but I won't get back to the car for a few weeks. Last night I ran into a strange thing with regards to his fuel pump pressure. The FSM says the non-running pressure should be 41-47 psi. This car runs right at the low end at ~41psi. I did some research and decided that I should see about 1/2 psi reduction per inHg of vacuum applied to the regulator. I applied 20inHg to the regulator but only saw 3-4 psi drop in fuel pressure. I expected to see close to 32 PSI but only saw around 37psi. I checked to see that the regulator diaphragm is not leaking. All good on that front.

I am currently thinking that that issue might be related to the new fuel pump volume. The fuel pump is new, from an amazon seller. it is a generic version of the ubiquitous Bosch 044 -style pump. I am thinking that the higher volume from this pump vs a stock Camaro pump is too high for the regulator to bleed off the extra pressure/volume. Does this even sound like a possibility?

This is all teaching me about the nuances of a 3.4L conversion. This knowledge can and will be applied directly to my build. Getting back to my build. I am cleaning up the garage and trying to get rid of, or at least store away, parts that will likely not be used in this build. I did remove tires from a pair of wheels. Woopie! Oh, I also sold of the '79MGB last night so that won't be distracting my attention on the GT. Unfortunately, I sold it to the guy whose 3.4L conversion I am working on. So, I will get to work on it again only at his garage. His plan is to convert it to a Beverly Hillbillies-style pickup. I guess he doesn't need another show car. He already has an MGB, MGA, '65 Mustang and 1966–1985 Fiat Spider, all in very nice shape.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

My last post about the other MGB(s). I promise. 1st, the other V6 conversion I was working on is now running wonderfully. The problem came down to several issues. The brand new ignition pack was defective. We changed it to a used one and it fired up, but still had a bit of backfiring.

2nd. The new fuel pump WAS too strong for the V6's fuel regulator. We changed to a lower output pump and found it had no fuel output. OOPS! Changed the pump direction and it now has the proper fuel pressure under all operating conditions. With the key on and engine not running, the pressure was 41 psi. It is a bit on the low side but within specs. Next, I pulled a 20"Hg vacuum on the regulator. The pressure dropped to 31-32 psi. This is exactly the result that I expected. This is the first time that I saw this large a drop. I was happy.

We did a cold, dry compression test to verify the valves were set right. All cylinders were between 190 and 200 psi. Another good sign. When we pulled the plugs to do the test, in spite of the spark plugs being new to this build, they were already caked in carbon. Put a new set of plugs in. Prepared to give it another start. I had my mechanic's stethoscope to verify that each injector was working crisply.. The car started up and idled smoothly. Listened to all 6 injectors the clicking sounded firm and about equal. I also noticed that the fuel pressure, now with the vac port of the regulator connected to the intake planum, the fuel pressure ran again 31-32 psi. Another good result indicating the initial pump was the wrong pump.

The engine, for the first time, started easily and ran nicely. It had absolutely no issue when cracking the throttle.3500,4000 rpm was nice and smooth. Beer can sat nice and still on the intake manifold at idle.

On another MG front, I sold my '79 MGB to the same owner of the above car. He plans on making a pickup truck with it. With lots of "patina" My car had lots of patina. I say, go for it.

Back to my own build. I did a test fit of the radiator. I think the space that I allocated for it will now work fine for the lower rad outlet. I picked up a tank of Argon for the TIG welder. That's a long story that I won't go into here. I need to hone my TIG welding first.
Placed the bonnet on the body tub and determined the optimum radiator height. I now have to remake the radiator mounts.

Hopefully I'll have some progress worth sharing pictures soon. Cheers!

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

The radiator mount V2.0 design was finalized and parts made to weld into place. Then I decided to take a different path. Rad mount V3.0 design was completed last week and tacked into place. I test-fit the radiator and it appears to provide enough space to route the lower hose past the steering rack and won't be too low as to pick up road rash. With a bunch or searching, I found a nifty silicone elbow/adapter on Amazon which goes from 1-3/4 to 1-1/4" and purchased it. It was delivered today and I just had to check it out. I cut off about 5/8" from the large end and I now am satisfied that things will fit. No more worries about that issue. Fortunately, it was a cheap fix at $6.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

As usual, it's been a while since I posted. This is from early January.

The radiator mount is now completed and braces added near the top to the slam panel and the lower of the radiator to the radiator duct support panel. It is very strong with no wiggle. This will do just fine in the real world. I remounted the cruise control module. I had to order more 10-32 riv-nits as I ran out. I then added a hole in the rad mount to pass the CC actuator and cable and wiring. Also found a permanent place for my Wolo BigBoy air horn, the same horn I used on my Locost. I think that is about it for that area until I get to running A/C hoses.

I moved on to finish cleaning up the engine compartment and primed it. I think that area is done too. I took a chance and tried Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator for the outer side of the dash side panel. Some friends of mine swear by it. I used a brush and was not really happy with the results after one coat. A fair amount of brush lines almost down to the bare metal were left. Perhaps I should try spraying it to see how it works with that application. I intend on using it for the under body and the trunk area. We'll see how that goes.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

The back end of the car has been given some lovin'. This post starts with covering of hole in the boot floor for the in-tank fuel pump. Once the hole was cut, something has to cover it. The problem to solve was that the fuel tank comes very close to the bottom side of the boot floor. This prevents any hardware for the cover from extending below the boot floor.

First, I used a pneumatic flange former to put a step to the circumference of the cut hole upward. This strengthens the boot floor. The flange is just wide enough to insert a RivNut from below. Then from above, fabricated a cover that is screwed to those RivNut. Normally a RivNut is secured by deforming the shaft, crimping the sheet metal between the flange and the deformed shaft. If I were to use the RivNut in such a method, the cover screws would be pulling that crimp, thus loosening the RivNut's crimp at the boot floor. To solve that, I simply tack welded the RivNuts to the floor from below thus eliminating that issue. The screws do not extend beyond the length of the RivNuts and not interfere with the tank below.

There will be some sort of rubber seal, yet to be determined between the cover and the floor once screwed together to seal it up. I will still have to past the fuel and return line violating that seal.

The boot floor and adjacent areas have been cleaned up and all loose rust has been eradicated. Then the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator was brushed on, left to right, from fender to fender and front to rear, from the back of the rear seat back to the hatch. Another coat will be required. I am happy with the results so far.




Next problem to solve is the modified gas pedal. I have an idea.......

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766