LocostUSA.com

Use "adapters" versus spacers that have no studs. One inch would be stronger/better if it will work with your rims. I had a similar issue with an early dodge pickup and late model ram 17 inch wheels that would not clear the inner fenders in the bed sides. Used typical ebay aluminum "adapters". The only potential issue with those is the hardware, studs and all, are not standard and do not fit anything else. I've had them on the truck a few years.

Depending on how concerned you are, there are domestic companies that regularly make adapters and can make yours to order with standard hardware. Probably cost about $200 a pair (in steel) these days.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

MV8, the MGB gurus think that I will end up with maybe at most 1/2" spacers. I would likely have to change the hub studs. If true, then I doubt that bolt on "adapters" will have enough room for bolt-on method used in adapters. I wonder what problem you see with the boltless spacers?

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

The last couple of days were finishing up the assembly of the diff. Yesterday, after installing the spider gears and axles, I found that the differential action, i.e. spider gears were locked up. I managed to overpower the tightness, but it was extremely notchy. There was no backlash. A common problem in MGs is that the new thrust washers behind the spider gears can be too thick.

Today I was resolved to see if that was the case. Turns out, it wasn't. The MG uses 2 cupped copper washers and 2 flat fiber washers. They were both "per spec". The copper washers were not formed as deep as they should have been, acting as they were thicker than they were, forcing the gears together. I used the old carrier and a spider gear to reform the soft copper washer. When re-assembled, I now have free motion with very little backlash. Problem solved.

Next up is the installation of the dreaded brake cylinder E-clips and then reassemble the rest of the diff.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

The details are important. Most of the spacers I've seen are not self centering on the hub or the wheel.With an adapter thinner than an inch, the hub studs may require shortening for clearance and the material thickness between the new stud head and the wheel can be too thin. Imho, a minimum reliable thickness for an adapter and a maximum reliable thickness for a spacer, considering the other variables. Id' definitely upgrade the studs thread length and size. You may be able to keep the same knurl size and maintain the margin to the hub edge.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Thanks. I think I have all of that covered, at least in my mind. I wanted to make sure that I wasn't missing something basic, or not so basic. FWIW, the MG uses lug-centric wheels. The hubs centers are not machined. I think that absolute concentricity of a spacer would not be critical since the wheel centers to the studs. At least that's what I think. If I end up with an adapter, I'll have to be certain that it bolts to the hub properly.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I agree.
I think the reason for the change to hubcentric from lugcentric was to make all the parts lighter for less mfg cost plus it was an attempt to make tire changes idiot proof for folks the lug wrench is the only tool they have ever held.

If you measure your studs, I'd like to compare the specs to what is available. Just need knurl od, shoulder length, overall length minus the head, and thread pitch.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Chuck,
The go to for longer studs is Moser 8255 (based on the race guys on the MGE). Unfortunately they're a metric thread, rather than the 1/2 unf that MG used. I'm using 3/4" spacers from a Nissan fitment with the wheels I have on my car (Nissan Altima). The spacers I have are hub centric, so they're centered on the wheel then lug centric to the car, if that makes sense.

If you don't want to run open ended lug nuts or shorten studs, there are common studs very close to that knurl size in a couple different lengths, same M12-1.5 thread but shorter at around 1-3/4 and 2-1/8 inch under the head. Nothing that is common sae is close enough if the Moser studs are the same knurl size as the original mg studs. If they are bigger than mg, then it could be a problem going backward, resulting in a lose fit and possibly spinning when trying to loosen. It would be good to know the original stud specs.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Nice find. Thanks. The guys on MGEXP recommended ARP 100-7708 and also found some Toyota ones that need to have the hubs drilled to 14mm. All seem to be 12mm x 2-1/2" studs though. I do find it funny that they spec them with 2 different measuring standards.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

The diff is 99% completed. Fully restored from brake drum to brake drum. I am waiting for the British bubble-flare brake tube nuts to finish it up. Tires are just there as place-holders. In spite of the tread depth, they are way too old to consider safe for driving on. On to the next task.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Update 5/13(ish)
I am now on to the engine. Supposedly it had 130,000 miles on it when I bought it 3 years ago..--($90.00 including the wiring harness and PCM). It has basically sat on a cart for the last 3 years.

I just finished running a compression test. 5 of the cylinders ran 155-175 psi. Not too bad for ~130,000 miles and sitting for a few years. Number 1 cyl ran only 112 psi. Then I ran a leak down test on #1. It was 37% leaking on the exhaust valve. #2 cyl was around 5%. I didn't bother running a leak down on the other 4cyls. It looks like the cylinders are good. Headwork may be in my future. I knew that I would have to at least pull the heads due to 2 broken exhaust studs that I failed to safely remove. I have a line on 2 used Fiero heads ready to pick up from a friend. My 10+ year old test battery was very weak and would not have enough power to get past the compression stroke sometimes.

I will likely re-gasket everything on general principle. Probably I'll check out the mains and rod bearings while I'm in there. I should have run an oil pressure check while I was cranking the engine.

One thing I noticed is that there is a noticeable slack in the crank as I hand turn it slightly fore and aft. It sounds like timing chain slack. It moves only a few crank degrees from click to click. Is this normal or should I plan on digging deeper? I don't want to get into a total rebuild if it is reasonably in good shape to start.



Update 5/21
The slack in the crank seems to be around 3 degrees. I have read that up to 7 is acceptable before changing the timing chain/gears. It looks like the timing chain is good.

In an effort to find the cause of the leaky exhaust valve, I have pulled the intake manifold and then both heads. The heads look different. I suspect that the leaky side was recently replaced based on the difference in crud buildup in the rockers and the general valve area. Of a bit of concern to me is that questionable cylinder's lifters are not filled with oil like the other 5 cylinders. Could this be because the engine hasn't completely filled oil galleries yet? The engine was sitting for over 3 years. I have only done the compression test. I plan on disassembling the lifters, cleaning them and them then inspecting & testing them on general principle.

The cylinders themselves look pristine for a 130,000 mile engine. here is no ridge, just a slight amount of carbon, easily removed. I can still see a slight crosshatch pattern on the walls. I saw the same crosshatch pattern on my 90k mile GMC Jimmy engine a few years back although it was more noticeable on that engine.

Both of the heads had 1 exhaust bolt broken. In an attempt to remove them, I buggered one pretty badly. I have another set of heads from a Fiero 2.8L . I am told these are the same heads. True or false?

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Heads are the same except for bigger valves from 85 or so.

You can fit allen socket heads from mcmaster or find studs from something else. I'm using a v10 stud set off ebay. I don't remember if it was dodge or ford.

Even a new timing set may have some slack depending on the source.
Spin the pump with an allen socket, extensions (taped together), and a speed handle then see where the oil goes?

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

The Fiero heads that I have, have the same size valves as the 3.4L although a different casting number. It appears to be identical including the depth of the head chamber depth. Any reason not to use one from the 3.4 and one form the Fiero? I would have to remove the valves to see what is causing the leaking before I give it a thumbs up to move forward with the mixed heads.

I miswrote about the exhaust studs. I didn't destroy the studs. When trying to remove them I ended up having to drill them out. I was successful on one head. Not so much on the other head. The drill drifted off center and ended up drilling right down the threads. I managed to remove what remained of the stud but there is a little more than 180 degrees left of the threaded hole. There is enough to thread a bolt down it. I doubt if it will hold a torqued bolt.

Good idea about manually driving the oil pump. I had to check the FSM to see how it can be done. Thanks to this transition-years engine, it still has the old distributor port. It should be easy to accomplish.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Wow, that's a lot of info to digest Chuck, but I like lots of info, lol

Iffin Chicago were closer to Holden we would be grinding valves and honing cylinders, and putting in new timing chain and gears and slapping each other on the back..

Now let me say something here.......
An engine wears out evenly (no matter what brand).
In my experience, if you do the top end (valves) you will soon see the bottom end (rings) weaken quickly and start passing oil and vice versa.
It sounds crazy but if you do a valve job that increases compression, the weak rings can't handle that and start passing oil. Vice versa - if you re-ring the engine the valves can't handle the increased compression and start burning themselves out.

You may get lucky, that's great. I'm just telling you my experiences from trying to cut corners, some you win, some you lose.

All the best my Locost friend!

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

I'd helicoil the damaged threads, test to torque spec off the engine, organize all the springs and valves to go back into the same hole, then compare all the parts and valve wobble in the guide (opened 3/8" or so, compared to each guide), and if that's consistent, lap the seats and change the stem seals. Large radius circular marks on the deck indicate cutting/surfacing. I'd also cleanup the bowls and smooth the ports but that's time consuming.

Heads are interchangeable and easy to find used.

When I said tape the pump drive socket and extension I meant duct tape. Don't want to drop anything.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12