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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: March 5, 2019, 6:40 pm 
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Thanks for the ideas. I really hesitate to use any non-epoxy primer or paint in the areas that will later get painted. I do plan on using some form of weld thru primer in the faces being welded.

I did receive the UK shipment of sheet metal. Beautiful, clean, unrested steel is a wondrous sight.

I am working on the rotisserie mounts. I have completed the rear I have have a plan for the front and have just started on that one Then the Polar Vortex came in. These adapters will bolt right to the engine stands. In spite of me bagging and tagging nuts/bolts as I remove them, Already, I have already misplaced the front bumper mounting bolts that would have been used for the rotisserie mount! A trip to the local hardware store is in the bear future


Attachments:
rear adapter1.JPG
rear adapter1.JPG [ 82.91 KiB | Viewed 1352 times ]
rear adapter2.JPG
rear adapter2.JPG [ 55.24 KiB | Viewed 1352 times ]

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PostPosted: March 6, 2019, 9:10 am 
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To keep from tweaking the bumper mounts, I'd add a one foot drop leg to the center of the jig then attach a length of chain to run forward to something substantial with a turn buckle. The beauty of the chain is you can move it around for access to repair. I used them in building my fiero jack lift for stability and so I didn't have to drill any holes or use a hoist which just gets in the way on these cars. Also made the trolley, engine mounts, etc.


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lift 001.jpg
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lift 002.jpg
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lift 004.jpg
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lift 006.jpg
lift 006.jpg [ 210.09 KiB | Viewed 1321 times ]

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PostPosted: March 6, 2019, 1:56 pm 
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Need parts?

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/it ... 187056677/

Neary Cincy.

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PostPosted: March 26, 2019, 1:16 pm 
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WOW. It has been a while. I've been down with a bug for about 2-1/2 weeks. I just recently got back to the garage.

MV8, the chain idea won't work well on a rotisserie unless I add another set of chains from above. See below discussion.


After the short sick-delay, I got back to building the front bracketry for the rotisserie. The front bolts directly to the frame of the car. I cut the engine stands and trimmed a 2x4 to fit inside of the rectangular tubes. This will raise the center of the rotisserie and allow for complete 360 rotation and still clear the roof. If I feel it necessary, I will add some screws thru the tube into the 2x4, but I realty don't think it will need them. I may just do so for a bit of belts and suspenders safety. I plan on running 2 lengths of Unistrut between the 2 stands at the wheels. That work is planned for tomorrow when I have a 2nd hand to help lift the car up.
Attachment:
front bracket.JPG
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Attachment:
stands 2x4.JPG
stands 2x4.JPG [ 53.33 KiB | Viewed 1201 times ]


Yesterday I got the front suspension and crossmember out. the front is now on a couple of jack stands. I can lift the front off the stands rather easily. I'd guess that there will be ~ 60-80 lbs on the front pivot when mounted to the rotisserie. Possibly ~100# on the rear once I get the Diff out. We'll see. With such low weights I don't think that the stress on the adapters will cause any issues without the added bracing that MV8 suggested. In addition I think the wooden tube extenders will work just fine too. All of the rotisseries that I have seen pics of, are bolted only to the rear bumper mounts.

I'm not sure if I mentioned that I received the sill parts. The outer sill piece is from original MG tooling, The rest is aftermarket stuff and not as critical from my research.
Attachment:
new sills.JPG
new sills.JPG [ 115.98 KiB | Viewed 1201 times ]

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PostPosted: March 28, 2019, 6:33 pm 
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Today I decided to take the MGB GT for a spin. I was very happy with the way she handled.

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PostPosted: March 28, 2019, 6:44 pm 
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I got the rotisserie finished today. Yesterday, My buddy came over and we got the main system put together and the car body lifted into place. Then today we finished up with the bracing. The balance seems to be very close to spot on. easily spun around 360 degrees. A bit of rust bits fell out. Maybe you can hear it in the background.



The two long ties stretching between the 2 stands are made up from Unistrut as are the 2 cross ties. Since the square axle tube is slightly tilted inward, the Unistrut was notched, bent and welded closed to match the angle. The 3rd legs were put to use to help with controlling the parallelogram from collapsing the whole thing.


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rotisserie.JPG
rotisserie.JPG [ 48.76 KiB | Viewed 1166 times ]

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PostPosted: March 29, 2019, 6:28 am 
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"Video Unavailable" ... Bummer...
Be careful it doesn't fold up like a taco when you open the doors. Rusty sills are what ended my MGB's career.
Well, that and a thrown driveshaft beating the tunnel to death. Lost all the "stability" in the unibody after that.

:cheers:
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PostPosted: March 29, 2019, 8:14 am 
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Funny, another friend told me about the "unavailable" too. I can see the video, plain as day. Unless I open an InPrivate window and enter LocostUSA there. Then I can't see the video here. Maybe something about YouTube. Maybe I loaded it up under a different username on YouTube with different rights. I can't see it on my youtube channel. I'll try a few things today.

I have a slightly better chance. I have the hard top version of the MGB. That gives a small amount of front to rear strength besides the sills and trans tunnel.

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PostPosted: March 29, 2019, 9:10 am 
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I think I got it now. in YouTube, the video was tagged as a "draft". I had to make it "public".

Let me know if it works now.


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PostPosted: March 29, 2019, 9:51 am 
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Yep, you fixed it! Neat video, looks like the rotisserie works very nicely. The rattle sounds from something coming loose reminded me of the old bumper sticker from Moss Motors, "The parts falling off this car are of the best British quality" (or something like that). :mrgreen:

:cheers:
JDK

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PostPosted: March 29, 2019, 10:42 am 
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Great job, Chuck. I like the use of that "Safety Pink" paint on the back too. :wink: You'll never walk into that by accident. :ack:

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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PostPosted: March 30, 2019, 12:40 am 
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Very nice Chuck
How did you determine the roll axis points. It looks like it's very well balanced. :cheers:

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PostPosted: March 30, 2019, 6:15 am 
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I think I may need something similar for the spitfire tub. Rot in the rockers and arches. Currently on concrete blocks and 2x8s under the sills, wide enough for the chassis to roll through.

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PostPosted: March 30, 2019, 10:33 am 
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Thanks guys!

I thought the 2x4 (trimmed to fit the vertical tube) was iffy. I now find that there is no question of its capability.

Perry, To answer locating the roll center question, I looked at many online MGB rotisseries. Most of them vary with the level of disassembly. Most are convertibles, some have suspension parts still in place some have doors, etc. Getting a good reference was difficult. When it came down to it, I winged it from those pics and my own visual estimation. It is a bit top heavy as she sits, but still easily manageable.

MV8, Come on along. The water's fine. You know you want to. A Spit on a spit. Sounds only fitting. Already, with only a few hours working on the car in this situation, I can say it is a whole lot easier than crawling under the car and having all that cr@p falling in my face. FYI, the HF 750lb and 1,000 lb stands are virtually the same structure with the same wheelbase. The main difference That I see is that the 750lb has a single caster on the center leg and the 1,000 stand has a short cross bar with 2 casters. All casters and the cross leg were removed for this application.

Lonnie, the Safety Pink paint was leftover from a project I made for my granddaughter. Waste not want not. It sort of matches the pink that is on the car before it got sun bleached. :ack: But like you said, it is difficult to ignore when walking around the car.

JD, I remember those stickers! Those were from the Leyland years, I'm pretty sure.

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PostPosted: March 30, 2019, 6:15 pm 
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By the sounds of it, this is a great way to find stuff you've lost in a car over the years?

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