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PostPosted: December 20, 2018, 12:30 pm 
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twentyover.
I'm thinking that a piece using the top cover bolts and attaching to the front where the link bolts on will help stabilize the setup and reduce stress at the 4 link ears. Cover bolts are a bit on the small side. There's not much room above the axle at that spot on the body.The link will need to be in front of the housing cover flange.

MV8,
At this point in time, it's pretty much a case of doing what I can with what I already have. The good news is that I've been a busy old pacrat since the trip down the Locost rabbit hole began. The rear axle choices are, 8.8s from a Mustang 3.27 gears and a Turbo coupe 3.55 gears. or 7.5 from Rangers and Mustangs.Gears ; 3.08, 3.45, 3.73, and 4.10.

I want to center the gas tank and tuck the mufflers on either side. Like this
Attachment:
MartynHarvey-GT-30E.jpg

To have it that way, the leaf springs must go.
That leaves a 3 or 4 link or irs.
The live axles can be narrowed to about 53" WMS to WMS. Using the shorter Ranger axles. Of which I have 3.
My Nissan Skyline IRS has a track width of 58" and change, and the Lincoln mark VIII (With open dif) is even wider. Custom half shafts aren't in the budget so.......
The Turbo Coupe gets shrunk and linked.
That's the starting point.

Make since so far?
Ron


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PostPosted: December 20, 2018, 12:40 pm 
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geek49203,
Has any of the above discussion answered your question. I can't offer a dollar amount. That would depend on how much of the work you can do.
If you know what the measurement, WMS to WMS, is that you need, I can tell you how I would approach it.
Let me know and we'll give it a go.
Ron

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PostPosted: December 20, 2018, 2:35 pm 
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You could cut out the ear and weld a plate to the cut edge to hang the pivot as high and as far back as possible.
Gusset the openings below the pivot if your worried about the passenger side plate moving around under load.


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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: December 20, 2018, 6:08 pm 
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MV8,
Like Rod 5.0 did?
Available space is somewhat different on a B.
With diff mount here,
Attachment:
img_2800.jpg

there's this clearance issue at full bump
Attachment:
img_2810.jpg

the link lays between the battery boxes and attaches at the end on the tunnel behind all those holes
Attachment:
img_3635.jpg

not much room to either side.
Ron


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PostPosted: December 20, 2018, 7:17 pm 
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I don't remember Rods rear setup. You could put the link and bracket on the drivers side or move the battery to the trunk. Not sure how "ratty" you want it to be!

There is room to run duals with ovals or round mufflers and still have leafs. Just need a slightly narrower tank and run the ovals with an offset outlet hanging down/muffler tucked in sideways.


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_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: December 21, 2018, 10:05 am 
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MV8,
How ratty? Rattle can paint job ratty at most. I'm beginning to realize that any work/ modification that isn't necessary doesn't belong in the "time" budget.
Want to K.I.S.S. this one to the finished enough to drive state asap. Leaving the battery boxes where the are, the leaf springs and gas tank alone, and running the exhaust like this makes much more sense.
Attachment:
dual FlowMaster mufflers.jpg

Attachment:
MervHagen2-CI.jpg

Thanks for being the voice of reason.
Ron


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PostPosted: December 21, 2018, 10:19 am 
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Hi Ron,

Sometimes we get more "help" than we want here. :lol: So at the risk of being annoying, I'll put the following two things out there.

Circle track folks use the front flange of the 8.8 near the pinion shaft to attach various things like J-bars, etc. to the pumpkin. That might get you the extra mounting point(s) for your 3-link triangulation for the big 4-link ears on the 8.8. Those big ears atop the 8.8 are very strong. I've seen them used on Mustang race cars that must weight 3500 lb. or more. I don't think an MGB would be a challenge for them. Also, there are commercial vendors who make rear covers for the 8.8 that will handle some level of structural forces, but you'd have to investigate them as to how much, and they aren't cheap.

MV8 may be on to something with the leaf springs. There are a ton of clamp-on products for the 8.8 axle tubes in the circle track world including leaf spring perches. You'd likely have to grind off hardware from the 8.8 (I did it with my 7.5, and it's a bear), but it's do-able for the home fabricator. That could greatly simplify your situation. Add in a Panhard rod and maybe traction bars and you'd be Fat City.

I made my own axle clamps for the 7.5 with some careful scrounging of surplus steel tubing. So, that's an option for you too.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: December 21, 2018, 6:18 pm 
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Glad to have your input Lonnie. I think a bracket can be fabricated to use the two upper "ears" and two the front holes where that big weight was bolted.
I have a good idea how to construct it but the drawing is to complex for me to try in paint or sketchup. The top link will attach where the one on the S10 axle above is located.
Searching for pictures of MGB GT race cars on Google I came across a few that used a top link to prevent a change in pinion angle. These same cars didn't have traction bars. If it works for them, the top link setup should meet my less aggressive driving needs.
Ron

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PostPosted: December 22, 2018, 5:17 am 
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I found 4 different brkt designs used on the mgb. Easier installation than the gt350 design (above axle) that required angle iron backing to prevent tearout :
Sources:
http://www.britishracecar.com/DonMunoz-MG-MGB.htm
http://www.britishv8.org/articles/mgbrearsuspension.htm
http://www.britishracecar.com/JohnTargett-MG-MGB.htm
http://www.britishracecar.com/AlanTosler-MG-MGB.htm

The Munoz design is the best imho, based on resistance to being ripped off by road hazard or railroad track, best ground clearance, easy to fab, and doesn't reduce leaf eye clearance between the flanges.


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_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: December 22, 2018, 8:30 am 
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MV8,
Thank you for taking the time to post those examples. I went ahead and searched for more examples and discovered that while traction bars / anti-tamp bars work well on race prepared cars with low stiff suspension that have an already limited range of movement, they can actually cause binding that lead to over steer conditions when used on street cars. Referring to this discussion;
https://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?40,3460443
This method where an additional long spring is added looks promising.
http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Easy-Traction.htm
I have extra springs and the suspension will be off anyway while doing the bodywork.
What are your thoughts on these ideas.
Ron

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PostPosted: December 22, 2018, 9:55 am 
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Sure, those problems can occur. Mounting points are important. Most leaf springs have an arc at ride height. When the rear suspension compresses, the wheelbase grows and the shackle allows it. If we compress one side cornering, the side in bump grows while the other side shortens the wheel base, turning the axle toward the outside of the turn for over steer. If the bar pushes on the axle more than enough to counter the wheelbase growth from spring dearc/flattening, over steer will increase. Just the opposite is going on at the inside wheel.

Once you mark the arc the axle travels in, find the best location to put the bar pivots to duplicate that arc for the same range of motion around ride height. After making your best effort and if you think it is hurting performance, you can reduce the roll that creates the issue with an anti-roll bar, heavier damping, or spring rate. There are other methods also such as a decoupling link, clamping the front of the spring or a floating leaf, traditional snubber bars, changes to the front end to work with the rear end, etc. Some oversteer is not the end of the world.

In general the rear pivot should be lower than the front and the length varies as well as the longitudinal location. It's kind of difficult to map the axle arc but you could try comparing spring plate to front eye distance at ride height, jacked up 2 inches, and weighted down a couple in bump. Use a string around the eye and a marker, with a vertical piece of car board at the spring plate to mark at each position.

Some over steer /toe out is desirable at low speed. Some under steer/toe in is desirable at high speed. Some cars have been designed to switch back and forth.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: December 22, 2018, 10:11 am 
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Location: Warrenton, Virginia
MV8,
OK, I think I understand. I'll check the arch before Taking the rear assembly out. Thanks!
Ron

PS 11,26,18
Picked these tires up today.
Attachment:
GTRR,008.jpg

To put on these 17" x 8" Mustang wheels I bought last summer
Attachment:
GTRR,009.jpg

Once they're mounted and bolted on the rear end, I'll know how much narrower the axle needs to be.
Came up with this doodle. Down the road, I might try to make an add-on for the stock cap.
Attachment:
GTRR,010.jpg

Ron


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