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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: June 19, 2019, 10:32 am 
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Location: Brandenburg, KY
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PostPosted: June 27, 2019, 9:30 am 
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Since I'm on here now, I'll do a partial update.
Calibrated the tach by adding a 1k trim pot in parallel with the other two resistors after testing to determine what the value needed to be with a battery charger. Total ohms was about 530. Tweaked the pot to about 617 separately. Reads 2400 rpm with batt charger versus around 3400 rpm before. Quick and dirty solder job with a 150/250w gun and no cleaning. Clipped the third lead to prevent shorting and bent the legs. Very stable mount.

Took a look at my vss square wave ouput from the speedo. It is a glass reed switch that has magnets spinning past it. I meant to check the number of pulses per rotation before I put the cluster back in but I think it is actually a 4k versus a 2k. I considered removing a couple magnets but felt it would affect the drag cup for the speedo needle so I am going to let it go. It only affects when egr functions and decel antistall in this application and it should still help. I could probably alter those functions if I decide to tune later. The s10 has no electrical evap.

Started working on the harness also and some other things I have no pics for yet.


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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


Last edited by Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F on November 14, 2019, 3:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: June 29, 2019, 5:11 pm 
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Piddly detail jobs now. Trimmed and rolled the edges on the original air cleaner, fabbed a clamp fro scraps for the brake hose ends that picks up existing holes under the battery tray and I had to drill one hole below for stability. Rebent the original brake lines around the engine and higher but they are too long and will be replaced with shorter ones. Adapted the cowl access panel to accept the timing control and map that used to mount on the air cleaner. Reworked the bracket I made to fit the coil and egr sol to the firewall but I think it will get one more revision to rotate the sol 45 degrees and maybe tuck the coil in more. Started fitting the new fuel line repair kits. Changed the oil pressure switch to the one used on the tracker since it was only one wire and about a 1/2 inch shorter but I added a street elbow to have more exhaust clearance.


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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


Last edited by Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F on November 14, 2019, 3:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: June 30, 2019, 1:36 pm 
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Radiator mounted. Took pic through gap between the edge of the hood and fender to see the clearance with the hood latched. Mounting lower puts the lower rad neck in the steering linkage. Also spliced two silicone 45 bends with aluminum tube for the upper. Good access behind rad, just not enough for a decent puller fan. Now I can rebuild the front cross member and steering stop, then start putting it back together.


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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


Last edited by Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F on November 14, 2019, 3:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: July 6, 2019, 7:07 am 
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Some progress. Finished the front cross member repair from my previous cutting for radiator clearance, before I realized the lower neck to steering issue. I only needed to cut away part of the cross member tube but I would have added the tubing between the forward lcaps and sway bar saddle mounts, since these just hang off the main cross member tube. It should really tighten up the suspension. Added the steering stop by using a ratcheting tie strap to hold the steering wheel at full lock to know where it should be. I could not find the one I cut off so I made new from 1x2 14ga tube. The stops on the pitman are adjustable.

Finished the radiator mounts. Next is to find the best spot for the evap can, probably on the front diff hanger where the air pump should be. As you can see, power steering pump clearance to the PS box is tight too. Glad I went with the small v6 (though to be fair, the 4.3 may not be any tighter at the ps).

Should start putting the frontend back together soon.


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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


Last edited by Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F on November 14, 2019, 3:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: July 8, 2019, 6:18 pm 
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A little progress in the punishing humidity. The exhaust manifolds are on with new gaskets, donuts, and spark plugs. I used allen head bolts (m8-1.25) and stainless washers since the outside manifold holes are oversize, chased all the holes and used nickel anti-seize, taped the op sensor for the light (a gauge will follow in the other port), cleaned up the original baffles to see how I might alter those to work better, and you can see how much better the brake prop is tucked away from the exhaust. I used different studs for attaching the y pipe then trimmed the original springs to allow a few threads to start by hand.


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_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


Last edited by Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F on November 14, 2019, 3:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: July 20, 2019, 6:42 am 
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Finished the exhaust. Reused the s10 Y pipe, tracker tail pipe and s10 muffler. Connected with left over scraps from other projects including a slip joint in the middle, added tabs and a hanger in the middle by moving one of the original rubber mounts. Not pretty but should last a long time outside the salt belt and looks like a stock tracker with original exhaust.

Used DG clamps and ¼” hex head self- tappers for the fuel lines and kept the original routing but extended forward as far as possible. Currently rerouting the engine fuel lines to the passenger side around the reclocked belt tensioner, then I can put everything back on the front end, fit the ac lines, and start wiring.

I'm retaining the suzuki fuel filter near the tank. I may retain the s10 engine mounted filter that catches anything from the hoses, which are R14 barrier to be compatible with ever increasing amounts of ethanol. I had to order it since my local stores don't stock the good stuff. I could get by with r6 since the pressures are low but went with r9.

Fit new brake lines around the back of the engine (3/16 tube x 51 inch, m10-1.0 inf). Replaced the speedo gears and housing to calibrate and flipped the speed reducer box case halves to offset the output to drop the cable down and inch for better floor pan clearance. Finally off the ramps.

Collecting parts for the brake upgrade that includes larger od vented rotors, larger bore calipers, and larger bore master using all oem Suzuki parts from different models and years. Current rotors are not vented.
Putting off top and interior until it’s functional. I have pre-95 top framing and a new top to eliminate the plastics on the 96. Found a pair of new outside door handles for $17. Mine are not broken but look weathered and original (23 year old plastic), so I think it is just a matter of time.

Original carpet is very cheap, thin material with essentially no backing. New molded carpet is available but not much better imho and not worth the price. Molded vinyl is also available but around $350. I’m going with berber loop construction in olefin and a very thin jute backing made for rugs. The box stores advertise hundreds of carpets like this but only stock a few, usually in the brown range. A couple of the brands are Mohawk and stainmaster. The original carpet has snaps built in that I think I can transfer to the new with some modification. Without the snaps, the original carpet would need glue or Velcro to hold it in place because it is so thin.


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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


Last edited by Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F on November 14, 2019, 3:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: July 25, 2019, 10:16 am 
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I retained the s10 engine mount filter but switched to a inverted flare stainless filter (gm oem application) instead of reusing the o ring type so I could use standard lines. The compression fittings come with the repair kits. The bends were tough without kinking the 3/8 lines. The filter mount is made from exhaust tubing. The first one I made from the original s10 driveshaft tube but the metal was too brittle. The bolts in the block were not fully threaded so I cut thick wall dom spacers to compensate. I was going to use a clip nut to hold the return line but then I could not find any in my shop so I just welded a nut to the back.

I welded a tab to the ps brkt to hold the pressure line. Since the exhaust studs I used have no positive stop, I double nutted so the clamp on the springs is adjustable.


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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


Last edited by Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F on November 14, 2019, 3:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: July 25, 2019, 4:05 pm 
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Had to cut another inch out of my shift rod in order to select park and 1st.

Noticed the radio was hanging by the plastic installation kit because there was no support at the front of the radio. Fabbed a new face plate from scrap .080" 6061-o. Good spot for some switches too.

Finally pulled the tank. I think I will add an access door in the floor so I won't have to do this again and replace all the hoses. Yes, it was full of fuel and/or water.:lol: I may add a drain plug while it is out.

I'm surprised how little rust there is. :cheers:

Also a pic of the offset speedo box.


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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


Last edited by Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F on November 14, 2019, 3:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: July 28, 2019, 12:18 pm 
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Replaced all the tank evap hoses (1/4) and return (5/16) at the tank with 30R7.

Modified the foot on the pump assembly to accept the s10 isolator and larger, longer pump. This eliminated the lip that kept the pump from slipping out of the foot so I added a hose clamp.

More zuki plastic line clamps broke when removing the tank so I replaced those with dg4 clamps and a self tapper, then cut off the zuki screw studs for the plastic clips. Changed the rear filter.

Since the s10 pump was not marked for polarity, I tested the assembly with jumpers off the battery before draining the tank. Tank is in good shape as are the fuel level and pump assemblies. The level sensor is 198 ohms empty, 3.3 ohms full and is separate from the pump.

I decided not to cut the floor for pump access as it would have been a deep cut into the box section at the rear.

Reinstalled the tank and skid plate, prepping the tank guard bar for paint, installed the 700r4 wiring routed through the second 02 sensor hole near the cross member. It is two wires; one to the ecu, one to the brake pedal switch to break 12v to the trans when the pedal is applied.

Cut the clutch pedal down to just a rod to support the brake pedal pivot and made to room to start building a mount brkt for the ecu which is much larger than the zuki ecu.

Picked up the “pet protect” bluish-grey carpet we ordered. Found a couple places that sell decent upholstery kits for between $350 and $450 a full set. The seats in it are ok for now but split and the stitching is rotting out. I like the sidekick seats with separate headrests and split rear but she likes the tracker design with a rear bench.

The tracker is looking like it would be a good single donor for a locost or at least for the chassis. The spindles are easily adapted to fit an upper balljoint, the brakes are big and in some cases vented, and the axle is set up as either a 3 or 4 link. There are a lot of wheels to choose from but 16x7 is about as big as they get. The ubj brkt can be made to minimize scrub for a 16x7 with a low profile tire. The fuel tank is compact and 11 gallon for a 2 door, 14.5 gallon for a 4 door and has a flat top and bottom with a sump baffle around the pump inlet. It has a narrow track and swaybars, with a rack and pinion on the 99 and newer models.


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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


Last edited by Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F on November 14, 2019, 3:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: August 8, 2019, 7:00 am 
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Made ecu adapters to bolt the s10 ecu to the zuki brkt out of .050 3003 scraps. I don't have a finger brake and didn't feel like cutting metal to have nice clean bends so it is just adjustable wrench,vice, and anvil bends.

The zuki brkt was really flimsy so I bent it in a few places to make it more rigid.

The older gm ecu typically has only a couple fasteners, so I added 10-32 x 3/4 screws that fit the opening well and tight enough that the head doesn't spin. Started fitting the s10 harness. Required a lot of extending to route the way I want it to fit but should be very clean and out of the way but accessible.

Added a couple drain plugs to the low points in the floor with 1/2 inch plugs.

Ordered a 4.30 diff I found online for $75. I think the 5.12 diff may be a bit too low for our highways. It just drops in like a ford 9 inch. It will make a nice comparison.

Also some of my fig trees are producing a lot this week. The pic is of one day. Some of the almas are just starting to produce. The dogs help. They only pick them if they are ready (smell right).

I got the 4.30 diff in. Very crusty on the outside but clean and in good shape inside. The crush sleeve has loosened a bit since there is no apparent preload, so I will be snugging that up a bit. If I hit max torque on the pinion nut without increasing the preload enough for a used crush sleeve, then the sleeve is too short and needs replacing. I've not decided if I will go solid with shims to adjust preload or another crush type sleeve. No pinion seal leakage but since I need to clean the housing, it will get a full tear down. The parts are mostly the same as the samurai rear except bigger axles/more splines. Speedo cal will require new gears for the reduction box from Clark Brothers or just ordering the box I need; whatever is cheaper.This diff has screw adjusters to setup the ring gear location so no shims to swap. White lithium works well for checking the tooth contact pattern.


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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


Last edited by Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F on November 14, 2019, 3:38 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: August 15, 2019, 7:22 am 
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I located a bank of relays inside the dash between the pax airbag and the hvac plenum and another pair behind the glove box. I have chilton and haynes manuals for this and they both stink when it comes to schematics, so I found a used gm tracker service manual set that should have what I need to id everything. All the relays are the same part number so that's nice.

I could barely touch the main and fuel pump relays with the glove box removed. They have green connectors. I was able to make the required connections on the drivers side but decided to pull the entire dash to access enough wiring to splice an extension for the main and fuel pump relays to move them below the dash for easy access.

If the airbag was labelled takata, I'd just leave it out, fit resistors to prevent a bag failure light, and fit an aux instrument panel/shelf. The older trackers have a better dash imho. Also considering eliminating all the bags. The air bags were still over-powered around this time, can deploy for very minor impacts where injury is more likely from the bag than the accident, all the equipment has been in the field/exposed for over 20 years, and my wife sits so close to the wheel. But for now it is all staying in and functional.


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_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


Last edited by Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F on November 14, 2019, 3:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: August 15, 2019, 8:41 am 
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Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
MV8
You probably wished that you knew you where going to have to pull the dash at the start of this project! I was thinking this might be a fun project some day. But the Geo is turning into a full time job!!! I hope the wifey appreciate all the work.
Davew


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PostPosted: August 15, 2019, 10:28 am 
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I probably should have just left the dash alone. I found the wires I needed to connect to on the drivers side. It took a lot longer than I expected plus the weather has been miserable outside, killing my motivation. Another weekend should have the wiring complete.

If it were for me to drive, there would be no options or efi to slow down the build. That’s ok though. As long as I am working on something, I don’t care much about what it is. If I’d found a stock runner, I’d probably be spending all my time rebuilding it too.

Yes, she asks me weekly about when she can drive it.

If I was looking for one all over again, it would be a 94 or older model.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: August 15, 2019, 8:06 pm 
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'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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