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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: March 7, 2023, 12:30 pm 
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Nicely done!

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360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
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McSorley 442:122x46x14
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PostPosted: March 8, 2023, 1:05 am 
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Lonnie-S wrote:
One of my (very distant) memories of shop class in high school was how difficult it was to weld cast materials. That was back in the days when we only had stick arc welding and oxy/acetylene to work with. TIG (then called Heli-Arc, I think) was an exotic method limited primarily to aerospace companies.
Lonnie wasn't that about the time we were watching the first lunar landing, lol. I was in grade school and had no idea what was in store for my future never mind building a car from scratch, lol (life is like a roll of toilet paper.....)

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: March 8, 2023, 10:34 am 
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@horchoha
[SIGH] Ancient history for me, Perry. Don't want to hijack thread. Sending you a PM. Your visit saving me money & hassle. Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: March 9, 2023, 6:41 pm 
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In my experience the commonly cast materials have no trouble with welding (which is actually a mini casting process!), as long as the correct procedures and material requirements have been followed. Cosmetic repair is commonplace in the casting industry and as long as it is done before final heat treatment there are usually no issues.


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PostPosted: May 17, 2023, 6:20 am 
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Bit of a detour, bought an old Singer 591 industrial sewing machine for $90 NZD, and a heavy duty conversion kit (bigger feed dogs, larger needles and speed reduction)
Attachment:
singer 591.jpg


The roller presser foot is the most helpful upgrade, it allows multiple layers of leather to feed though. Still accelerates way to fast with my inexperienced hoof, but was considerably cheaper than the proper walking foot variety that are recommended for heavy materials. As the cabin will mostly be alcantara it should cope. Highly recommend Cechaflo youtube channel for hands on tutorials.
Attachment:
roller presser foot.jpg


Turns out the estimate for weight of the OEM flywheel and clutch was close, a touch over 20 kgs each, which really hurts as there has to be 2 of them. Rice cracker diet has been implemented to help offset. Under-guessed the stack height with throwout bearing and have to move the engines out extra 50mm each, but luckily there are no clashes with the frame model. Confirming the OD of the ring gear enabled both engines to be dropped another 25mm without issue, which is beneficial. The transaxle is thus rotated nosedown a fraction more, don't expect any oil feed issues as the pump is at the lower front and the TR6070's are designed for high slosh use.
Attachment:
DMF.jpg


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PostPosted: May 17, 2023, 8:58 am 
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Kinetic Research wrote:
Highly recommend Cechaflo youtube channel for hands on tutorials.
Another great source for DIY tutorials is here https://www.sailrite.com/How-To-Projects-Guides

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: May 17, 2023, 8:56 pm 
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
Tell us how it works out. I'd like to consider doing my own upholstery. However, I'm feeling a need to shorten my to-do list now. Please keep us posted as things develop - whether good or bad.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: May 17, 2023, 11:33 pm 
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Thanks Perry!

Lonnie, if you can use a bandsaw with confidence then a sewing machine is similar, loose focus and you get hurt fingers or a scrap job. Slow and steady is the best way, and these old machines are so cheap for the capability they possess. It will pay for itself without doubt.

Stock this machine does 6000 stitches a minute, and sounds like a minigun running, the needle moves so fast it's a blur. However with the pulley and belt change it's drops to under 4000 spm, still far to quick for detail work. The treadle operates the manual clutch plate so you can regulate speed quite well once practiced, I am going to lengthen my clutch arm by 2 times and get some finer engagement control. Will post some french seam pictures shortly!


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PostPosted: June 20, 2023, 7:01 pm 
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Lots of background things happening since the clutch locked things in place designwise, have printed out the first pinion housing pattern, pair of castings will follow on soon.

Attachment:
Pinion housing.jpg


Bought a Melling M68 oil pump and measured on the CMM to confirm dimensions that will be machined into the billet dry sump housings. Once I have proven the parts work I will be happy to share the CAD files.

Attachment:
dry sump beginnings.jpg


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PostPosted: July 20, 2023, 12:14 am 
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Have been refining the plenum chamber design and measured the volume of the standard J35 plenum and upper runners, which is 6.5 litres. What would life be without duct tape...

Attachment:
plenum and runner volume.jpg


Will be fabricated aluminium runners and bellmouths bonded to a carbon fibre box - after all there has to be some bling visible through the engine covers.

Attachment:
plenum.jpg


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PostPosted: August 9, 2023, 5:10 am 
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Last week I picked up (chuckle) a NZ new 2008 Accord with 60,000 miles on the clock from the salvage yard. Sad how a minor scrape down one side can write off a fully driveable car, but it was cheaper than a bare long block engine from the specialist Honda dismantler so a complete no brainer. It now has a new purpose as the project donor. It's great fun stripping cars down to uncover the clever high volume manufacturing tricks, plus now have lots of spares for my daily driver and most importantly all 12 cylinders!

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donor.jpg


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PostPosted: September 1, 2023, 10:58 pm 
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Have cycled through another iteration of detail on the intake system, honing in on the final forms that will get fabricated. The intake air passes through a coarse mesh at the scoop entry to filter out the leaves and any other large road debris (birds, cephalopods, malicious discards etc.)

In extremes of cold or wet weather an air deflector is operated to close and block the air flow through the scoop and instead air is drawn from the top of the engine bay. The air deflector is the full scoop width, whereas the intake snorkel is only 2/3 the scoop width. Under normal conditions the air deflector is open and the bypassing air goes directly into the top of the rear cover to help cool engine bay temperatures.

The roof scoop is fixed to the chassis whereas the plenum and throttle body assemblies are fixed to the engines. To absorb the side to side engine rocking movement the standard Accord J35 rubber bellows have been reused. Not shown is the rear section of the airbox that is removable to allow access for servicing the 2 long rectangular K&N air filters that are inside the airbox.

Attachment:
intake system.JPG


Attachment:
Air deflector.jpg


Attachment:
Air deflector closed.jpg


For anyone wanting to make their own throttle body I can confirm that the butterfly shaft axis is co-incident with the throttle body bore.

Attachment:
throttle body.jpg


Finally bought a pair of genuine Mclaren F1 wing mirrors to help finish of the door frame detailing.
Attachment:
mirrors.jpg


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PostPosted: September 3, 2023, 10:42 am 
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I'm digging the old Singer. There's a couple around here for a similar price. I still need to do a rear tonneau so I should probably think about picking one up. Are you happy with it? Would you buy the same model again?

Awesome work, as usual!

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PostPosted: September 3, 2023, 11:17 am 
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Indeed, awesome work. I always follow your progress, but have little to offer in terms of comments. You're kind of in a league of your own with the castings and so on. It's great fun to follow though.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: September 3, 2023, 4:51 pm 
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RTz wrote:
I'm digging the old Singer. There's a couple around here for a similar price. I still need to do a rear tonneau so I should probably think about picking one up. Are you happy with it? Would you buy the same model again?

Awesome work, as usual!



Thanks Ron, check out this page and see the results by someone who is a better sewer than me. I haven't needed it yet, but it sure is nice to have it ready to go. They are solid old machines, walking foot would be ideal however I have done some heavy passes and it is fine, just speed regulation is very tricky. A servo drive is apparently the best option over stock, if you can find one of those I really don't think you would regret it.

https://www.sewingmachinesaustralia.com ... 46-39.html


Lonnie-S wrote:
Indeed, awesome work. I always follow your progress, but have little to offer in terms of comments. You're kind of in a league of your own with the castings and so on. It's great fun to follow though.

Cheers,


Thanks Lonnie, I just wish I could rummage through my garage and find a mint set of QA1 coilovers like you have! Congrats & commiserations in equal quantities on selling the Vette, great car.

:cheers:

Marcus


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