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Wow, time flies.
This has been on the back burner for a while but starting to get back into it.
I had to fix all the pics too as they keep disappearing

I have picked up some flares to allow wider rims and tyres 10"x4" is fairly small

See the portion of this video that starts at 39:00

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7pVvEmPyws

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Bill H
Winnipeg, MB, Canada

Re. The Beat?
My wife actually said I should make it an EV, I considered it but it would double to triple what I want to spend at the moment plus I already have a Leaf but I don't have a fun ICE car currently.

Not much physical progress yet but have been working through how everything might be setup before committing.
So here is the engine mocked up



I have been figuring out things like gear shift, clutch actuation, cooling system, intake and exhaust but the main thing has been how to get drive to the wheels.
After some thought and discussion with others I have come up with the design below, please excuse my CAD skills, the last time I used it was late 1999 so I have left out splines, teeth, correct tolerances and a few other things I'm sure



So obviously the output shaft on the engine is spinning the opposite direction to what the diff needs for forward movement.
The plan is for the engine to drive the countershaft on the diff box via chain (sprocket is the orange part at top right, I will be fitting a cush drive/giubo to this sprocket but haven't finalised it yet)
The splined shaft will have a small gear (helical preferably) that will mesh with another bolted in place of the crownwheel and at the far end a ring gear for electric reverse.
Tapered roller bearings sit in the ally blocks that will bolt to the sideplates



If anyone has any advice around any of this and the construction of the housing I'd be happy to hear it.
At the moment I am thinking of a box constructed of 10mm steel, mostly for strength, calcs say it'll be around 20kg on its own
Keeping the wall thickness down also helps with placing the ring gear inside the stub axle flange

I will be engaging a local engineering company to do most of the work, I'm just trying to make sure that what ask for is possible

Extremely short chains can have cooling/wear issues.

Straight cut gears are very noisy. Even the narrowest of cars have a differential. You could use a diff, bearings, seals and stubs from an r160, 90-93 miata, fwd transmission, etc then fit a large id driven gear to replace the ring gear, about 1/3 the size of the drive gear. The driven will be the hardest thing to find off the shelf imho. Winters gears sets would work well and be cost effective for rotation reversal but making them work with a diff could be a challenge.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
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LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Yeah the chain situation is not ideal but it might be the best option for now, I have some cooling and lubrication options to explore.
The gears I'm looking at are helical and will run on tapered roller bearings and there is a diff, it's just not drawn very well in my cad image

I picked up some steel tube the other day so I can get started on the subframe for the engine