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I have a borescope. As long as I get the outer off and the inner membrane I'll be good. I'm fairly convinced right now the inner is good. I do want to po-15 the inside of the inner sill.

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

Sitting here thinking how I am going to skin this cat on repair panels. Buy the metal and one tool and make them or buy the panel. Leaning heavily to making them. Looks like the 6 panels are about $375 with shipping and the DIY kit is $286.

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

How in holy heck do you keep the body square when you have removed so much structure?

Pete ruined the Studebaker when he put a floor in it, and it was well braced up.
You have removed more structure than he did.
How will you ever fit a door back into it?

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Honey anyone?

If you are talking about my pic, look closely and you will see a temporary brace welded from A Pillar to B Pillar. This is normal procedure for MGB's. Some say it is not necessary for the MGB GT due to the roof structure. I took the safe path. If it was square to start with it is still square now.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

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Lucky for me it’s not mine

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

Got one side open. Found some really good metal and a partial castle that need replacing and a small section of inner sill. 95% is solid. Now what? Idk how this castle comes off. Chuck?!!!

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

Good progress.

Before deciding what to do, I would clean out the rust. If you sandblast down to good metal and find mostly good steel, I would cut out the bad parts, fabricate and weld in rather than removing the castle rail. There is a good chance you will find there is nothing strong enough to weld fresh metal to.

Have you watched the assembly video yet? The castle rail is the beginning of the sill structure and everything is built on to it. Taking it out completely without destroying the other stuff you still want to keep is maybe another 1x-2x the time.

Do you plan on replacing the membrane with plain, flat steel? Butt weld to what remains of the old membrane?

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I watched the video. The nose piece of the castle is what I was eyeing up today. The first 8-10 of the rail is what I need to replace. The top section that has the wide flange on is still in nice shape. It’s just the curve that’s shot.
It all looks like this now. I pulled all the remaining metal off. This will grind back to good metal. I’ll plug weld a new piece in. I have some 16ga I can make the new membrane with. I’m thinking if I cut the castle back a bit to good metal and weld down a piece in the bottom of the valley and use it as a backing plate for the new piece to butt too. Butt weld to that and new inside sill. Plug weld to the bottom of the inside sill. Tomorrow I have to figure out how the floor comes out.

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

Floor removal is straight forward, If original, It drops down from the inside on flanges all the way around. The spot welds should be visible from inside.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Looks like a woodpecker was in here. 4hrs later it’s still here. All of a sudden I’m not a fan of spot welds. How the hell do you find them within the pockmarked rust. I wanted to save it in one piece for a templet. I don’t think it’s going to survive.

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

To find the spot welds I use a flap wheel. IT will show 95% of the welds. A wire wheel is too soft and will clean out the rust in the weld dimple making it difficult to see. Once you get most of them drilled out, start working a sharp chisel from underneath, separating the floor from the frame rails, tunnel, sill toe board. You will find the few welds that you missed.

Are you really going to try making your own floorboards? Are you adding the stiffening ribs? I certainly hope so. I gotta see that part in detail. An OEM type floor that hasn't got the side flanges should be doable. don't worry too much about using the old floor as a template. Scrap cardboard(s) or poster board could easily be used to make a new template.

You are really going to town.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I used a flapper wheel and a 3m stripper pad. In the end the plasma cutter took over and won. As I went around peeling and drilling spots I missed, I would never have found these. There needs to be a spray on die that highlights these things. Wow, talk about camouflaged. Still more to go. My back is killing me.
One good note is the inside frame looks awesome.
I did order parts from Rimmer Bro in UK and one panel from Moss because it was a bigger front fender piece than Rimmer carried. Rockers, doglegs and one front patch. The rest I’ll make. I also ordered a Primeweld MIG machine. I see inside seams that be welded, mainly in the rear. I’m sure I’ll find more as the paint and seam sealer come off. I have part of castle rails to mend up when we get things cleaned up. I could see adding some more triangles inside the inner sills before the membrane goes on.
Yes Chuck I ordered an Eastwood beader. I will defiantly run stiffeners where the seats go. I’m
Not even sure what seats I’m using or building yet. I really want the sprite seats.

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

Good job on the spot weld cutting . Yes there are welds you can't see so you just have to keep peeling and guessing where they are.
As for the woodpecker comment, I can't help this reply, I've been squirming since I read your post, so here it goes.........my brother had a wooden leg, my mother had a cedar chest, and my father had a woodpecker
Keep on with the demolition!

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

Good job on the spot weld cutting . Yes there are welds you can't see so you just have to keep peeling and guessing where they are.
As for the woodpecker comment, I can't help this reply, I've been squirming since I read your post, so here it goes.........my brother had a wooden leg, my mother had a cedar chest, and my father had a woodpecker
Keep on with the demolition![/quote
Hahaha. Funny. Thanks Perry, this is certainly an education, I know how the next panels are coming out. I might be able to find more, this side of the car is the worst. We’ll see. The best thing is I think I know what I’m up against with the whole project now so I can settle down and just plug away.

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

That looks pretty clean considering it being a Midwest car. BTW, I thought you were going to build a rotisserie?

I recommend you don't go too far disassembling. Get one side strong and done before attacking the other. Getting both floors out at once is OK.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766