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sodamninsane


No worries, that was not implied at all. By making my build public I accept and encourage feedback/comments/concerns in an effort to make things better, safer and easier to fab etc. Any input is welcome.

On the same topic, I had a chance today to speak with a professional welder who builds motorcycle chassis and race bikes. Having no formal welding training, it was good to get some feedback on the project, learned some new techniques that would help with the build, and talked about how he reduced warping on the bikes he was making.

As for the build table, Im still undecided on the solid MDF top and reinforced 2x4 table or the vs. the steel ladder type table. both have advantages. I dont know which one is better nor do I know If it matters that much as long as its rigid and tubes are clamped well.

Andrew

Why did you decide to fab the upper shock mounts with al sheet/angle. It's trick, just wondering. Keep us posted when you finish seal and bond that stuff as well,and where you bought the supplies for it. Thanks

my guess would be weight... and aluminum is fairly good in shear applications compared to steel...

Andrew, did he talk about pre heating tubes before welding or something else? I'm curious as well because I'm a self taught welder..

Tigris

I wanted a big rigid yet lightweight structure to stiffen the subframe and a place to mount the dampers. I just figured I could make it more accurate, rigid, and lighter from aluminum vs steel. Next time Im back home I should get it primed and sealed up. I purchased the primer, acid wash and alodine from coast fiber-tek in burnaby BC, you should be able to get it through industrial paint and plastics, Canada wide. The sealant is chemseal CS3204 from aircraft spruce. Its a fuel tank and airframe sealant, extremely tenacious stuff. Used all the time on acraift for rivet bonding(rivets+glue for increased joint fatigue life). If you're just bonding aluminum (thats a whole other can o worms) a whole other process/pre-treatment applies and you start getting into elevated cure film adhesives. definitely not locost.

Sodamninsane

We did not touch on pre-heating, although he did ask me if I dragged or pushed the weld. I said I was pushing the weld and he said why it was better than pulling, penetration and slight preheat. Mainly talked about Tig welding though.

Andrew

WOW! fantastic work and especially welds for someone who is self taught. any more recent progress?

Thanks bluej

I just got home from my rotation late last night and spent the morning working on the project.

I drilled off the rest of the crossmember, countersunk, de burred and polished up the edges. I just finnished up the acid wash and alodine. Alodine is a chromic acid pre treatment that leaves the aluminum a iredescent gold colour. I should have the parts primed up this after noon after a quick trip down to the border to pick up hardware and parts from aircraft spruce and midwest control.

Andrew

holy fast reply batman!

lookin good! is the "alodine" name an actual chemical name or did they mix "aluminum" and "iodine" since it turns the aluminum the same color as skin when it's been swabbed with iodine? actually, from your description it sounds like it does the exact same thing iodine does to skin. fascinating.

alodine is a chemical treatment process for aluminum used to provide corrosion protection and surface preparation for paint and adhesives.

_________________
Austen
upstate NY
airframe mech
09 109R
04 IS300
91 MR2t
93 toyota PU
91 alltrac (gt-4)

What Austen said pretty much sums it up.

Quick update from the last couple of days. Primed, sealed and riveted the crossmember. I use an ink roller to apply sealant for a thin and even coat, you can barely see but there is minimal squeeze-out of adhesive. I received the remainder of my rear suspension parts, which were safety washers, swaged tube and rod eyes which replace the inner toe link bearings. Also started on the sheet metal work on the front, still lots to do, buts its detail work and I should really be focused on building the build table and the rest of the jigs.

Andrew

looks great. One question: Do you have any play in the rear suspension? It seems to me like the upper A-arm is going to take most of the torsional loads because of the amount of rod ends in the lower? If you disconnect the upper, can you rotate the upright freely?

sodamninsane

good eye. This was brought up by another forum member. Originally there was a rod end as an inner toe link, Midwest control was out of stock at the time I ordered my parts, but I wanted to make progress, so I just threw in a rod end until they had rod eyes in stock. It was one of those " ill just remember to replace it before I drive the thing". Either way the correct part is in now, and it is rigid. Theres also about 2.5 inches of thread on the rod eye, so over half of the threads are engaged. Still have to make shims.

Andrew

Well my week off has come to an end.

I didnt really accomplish all that I wanted too, but family, friends and life in general are higher priorities than my projects. I also find that its never a good idea to do anything more than thinking and planning on my first and last days home. Next time I plan to build the table and the posts to jig the subframes. Then everything will get moved to a larger shop where I can build the rest of the chassis. I also need to get the roll hoop bent up before I do any fab, as it will be easier to make the chassis a 1/4 wider or narrower, depending on the accuracy of the shop that will make it.

I fabbed up the front bulkhead from .100 2024-t3. The theme of that project was "I cut it twice and its still too short", no biggie, I will use it and most likely that part will need to be cut out anyway for steering pinion clearance. That peice of metal was a freebie and way too expensive to buy for the project, so ill just live with it, and it was not in a critical location. Did a little more work around the coilovers aswell.

Today I mainly cleaned up around the shop and also Temporarly rigged up the brake pedal and the steering to make sure things still felt the same after almost a year from doing the mock up. Ive decided I want another 2 inches in the tub for comfort/safety. the mock up felt good for the 15 min was sat in there while making noises, but things have changed. Ill revise my drawings and post later in the week.

Andrew

Update.

Built the table and the jig posts. Roll hoop is being bent up now by Specialty Engineering in New Westminster. They are also a Wilwood and Tilton dealer with very good prices, so I ordered up some remote master cylinders (7/8 and 3/4) as well as a bias adjuster and residual pressure valves. Cheaper to get the parts through them than order through summit and pick up across the border.

Ive also located an r1 engine and various mid 90's Yamaha FZR and Kawasaki ZZR1100 engines locally. Although I really want the R1 engine, Im going to consider the other options. There all roughly 145 hp with out mods. Any thoughts on these engines?

Unfortunately, I cant really progress any further until the hoop is done as its real width is unknown, Its supposed to be 42.000, but getting that accurate is expensive as its usually after the 2nd or 3rd attempt. So as long as its within an inch. It should be done this Saturday. As for the build table, I cant level it or secure the jig posts because the project is going to get relocated to a larger shop. I hope to have it there as early as Saturday. Another update next week some time.

Anyways Happy Holidays or Merry Christmas (to be PC)
Andrew

Nothing like watching an aircraft quality car being built. Nice.

You're an A&P?

Thanks for youre comments.
When I signed up at locostusa, I was a structures tech (Canadian equivalent of just the "A" of A&P). Ive since moved to a different sector of the aviation industry.

Andrew