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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: December 8, 2017, 2:47 am 
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Location: North Van., BC
Yah, JD and he's also got his Christmas tree up already. :D

As usual Andrew,nicely done and likely a helpful video for others.

Ron

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PostPosted: December 8, 2017, 8:02 am 
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We are Slotus!
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sevenesqueron wrote:
Yah, JD and he's also got his Christmas tree up already.
The lights are up on the Team Slotus garage!

Been up for almost three years now... :mrgreen:

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: December 30, 2017, 1:54 pm 
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Morning from Washington dc.. on an overnight with work. I typically do these posts when on layovers.

Not too much progress as of late due to a hectic work schedule around the holidays. January im back to the "house prisoner" on call sched with potential opportunity for progress.

What has been done is the stainless frames for the lenses. The petg doesnt carry the same rigidity as the acrylic, nor the fragility, so a small stainless frame was needed. The tight bend at the front ruled out aluminuim. The lenses were affixed with monel blind rivets. Although not perfect by any stretch, i did need to remind myself that to make a perfect part would require vastly more time and energy that i wanted to spend. So for now, this is it.

To achieve the brushed stainless look, i used a air file, dynafile, autofile etc with a sotch brite belt. This is a new tool to me, dynabrade autofile 2. I always though these were kinda hokey pokey, but after using it, i should have had one long ago.

Moving forward. Ill be continuing work on the front body section filling sanding and priming. Electrical redo is next to include lighting, seating, paint in the spring, and... the registration process.. i said process, with no immediate hopes of legitimately driving on public roads. Bumpers winshield etc will be required.

Heres a few pics. Sidepod metal work. Dimpling nutplates for countersink rivets in thin sheet.

Andrew


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PostPosted: December 30, 2017, 2:11 pm 
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More pics..

Fine sanding disc is still the best way to deburr stainless. New wing mount installed. Less light shows bodylines better. Lots of fittment required to fit up flexible compound curve part. Dynabrade autofile 2.

Andrew


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PostPosted: December 30, 2017, 3:09 pm 
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Joined: March 1, 2008, 8:42 am
Posts: 97
Depending on your level of motivation, you could think about securing the headlamp covers in the manner of the 956/962:

https://digitaldtour.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/67_busby_962_127b_2_apr85.jpg

They appear to slide into a groove and are secured with ~3 screws judging by this pic.

It would all depend on your motivation though as it would clearly require rework to both the nose and new covers. Maybe if you're super bored over the winter and have nothing else to do?

Right...

Chris


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PostPosted: December 31, 2017, 8:50 pm 
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Location: North Van., BC
Impressive work, as always, Andrew.

Happy New Year and I know it's going to be the year that you declare the car finished. :D

Ron

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PostPosted: January 27, 2018, 5:56 am 
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sevenesqueron wrote:
Impressive work, as always, Andrew.

Happy New Year and I know it's going to be the year that you declare the car finished. :D

Ron


Happy new years Ron. The list is defineatly geting smaller, fingers crossed all goes smooth this year.

Update.. more body work lately, im working on the front section arround the headlights. Lots of pin holes and smaller air bubles near the corners to grind out and fill with epoxy. This was the first section I made so as expected with the learning curve, this will have the most surface defects.

Also laid up the engine intake and trimmed the excess with a razor blade while the resin was still green. Also made an electrical contact extractor made from a brass punch and dull drill bit. Ground down the drill shank with the autofile.

Pics to follow shortly

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PostPosted: January 27, 2018, 10:53 am 
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Pics


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PostPosted: January 27, 2018, 11:51 am 
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Your workmanship is inspiring.


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PostPosted: February 3, 2018, 9:05 am 
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stinger wrote:
Your workmanship is inspiring.


Thank you sir. Ckouba, thanks for the link, probably wont rework the front end. The plug was destroyed after the molds were pulled.

Heres the latest onthe air intake. I used expanding foam in the rear molds to create a matting surface. The two rear pieces were bonded together with thickened resin and 3 ply lap reinforcement where there was no foam.

For the front, expanding foam was used to fill the void, and bond the two pieces together. Excess foam was trimmed out and sanded for a smooth transition. Pre cut e glass wad laid up inside the intake. One ply was used on the exterior to reinforce the joint. Overall its very stiff and about 17oz before fairing compound. Heres some pics.


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PostPosted: February 9, 2018, 7:09 am 
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Some pics of the latest progress.. write uo to follow.


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PostPosted: February 9, 2018, 9:15 am 
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LOOKING GOOD!!!!
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PostPosted: February 9, 2018, 7:08 pm 
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Love you work. Looks great !

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PostPosted: February 22, 2018, 7:26 am 
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Thanks fellas

.. So lots of progress work and money spent lately on the car and the associated genuine feeling of progress towards the end goal.

Ive redone the firewall forward wiring harness less the relay and turn signal module, which is on order and should be here early march. the inspector wants to see self cancelling turn signals so i have found a unit from a motorcycle aftermarket manufacturer to fit the bill. The tailights are 4 inch LED from princess auto, Ron (sevenesqueron) gifted them to me as they were surplus to his project. The wires pass through two 15 pin molex connectors poted in with epoxy putty. I wanted AMP cpc connectors, but would run out of budget really quick if everything was mil spec.. keep in mind that most of my car is mil/AN or aircraft hardware, but it was sourced for nil or at a serious discount. paying MSRP for mil hardware would kill the budget fast.

The inspector also wants to see a catalytic converter, I have one from a dolmar 7900 chainsaw Ill be tucking between the muffler and header. If that doesn't suffice Ill be after a larger after market unit. That will dictate the exhaust will exit the side... more work and inline with the reality is that I'm doing almost everything twice on this car.

some tig pics, and the part are cleaning in phosphoric acid. This is part of the body work support piece..

More Sanding and filling of composite surface defects and epoxy primer. Getting close to topcoat and I'm nearing a final paint scheme.

Ill post pics later but, I have redone the clutch slave cylinder. I was using a slave mounted higher than the master with an RPV (residual pressure valve to keep the fluid high, but have abandoned that for the slave to be mounted lower and actuating the clutch via pullrod and bellcrank. Ill be priming those parts shortly.

And here's props to the wife who approved of a new battery for the car. Fueled it up and ran the motor for the first time in 8 years, obviously it wasn't that simple and I chased a few fueling/cooling issues from sitting for so long. Also an opportunity to test the new wiring harness. Ill be redoing the firewall rearward wiring as well.

Stay tuned for pics.

-Doing everything twice- Airframefixer/Andrew

Andrew

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PostPosted: February 23, 2018, 9:10 am 
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Awesome job. Looks amazing!


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