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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: February 23, 2018, 4:38 pm 
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stinger wrote:
Awesome job. Looks amazing!


Thank you sir.


Here some pics.... electrical work..waiting on parts to show up.


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PostPosted: February 23, 2018, 4:50 pm 
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Clutch bell crank, slave cylinder mount.. new can of vomit yellow primer.


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PostPosted: February 23, 2018, 7:25 pm 
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Only doing everything twice, I'm envious. :D

Wow, those street shots make it come alive as an almost finished car.

Sounds like you have a reasonably good working relationship the inspector. Also, it sounds similar to my experience, after initial agreement what would be acceptable, oh, I think you should have amber side lights and oh, I think that you should have a center brake light.

Really heading down the home stretch now, keep er going.

Ron

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PostPosted: February 25, 2018, 7:01 pm 
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You aircraft guy's make me nutz ! Did you get a 10,000 ft. spool of "WHITE" wire ? :roll:

But it looks great. I even got some clear shrink rap tubing but have not used it to mount labels yet.

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PostPosted: March 4, 2018, 11:08 am 
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Thanks guys.. im seeing the light and the whole concept that the last 10 percent takes 90 percent of the time. Very keen these days for progress. Ron, you inspired me think like an inspector, not like a builder looking for "grey areas", so im going for inpection friendly solutions so I only do that once. B85.. haha.. just seems normal to me.. beisdes one colour wire is much cheaper that colour coding the wiring. The labels are self laminating, about 1/3 whiteb to write on and rest clear to laminate.

First, the clutch mechanical linkage is good, but ive found the two master cylinders have swollen resevoir valve seals that do not allow the resevoir to replenish lost fluid. So two days of shop time gone getting to the bottom of that. Unfortuneatly, wilwood no longer supports these compact remote masters with rebuild kit, so a new one was ordered. Wifey tells me it has arrived, im working this weekend, overnight in Newark NJ.

Hopefully a quick bleed and ill scratch that off the list. The signal dynamics module showed up and im working on the panel wiring. Still waiting on the tailight converter.

Id rather not find out that my chainsaw catalytic converter is a "no-go" at the time of inspection so im commiting to an "out the side exhaust". Ive made a stainless flush mount plate to pass the tail pipe through, tailpipe hole to be installed. The plan is to send the exhaust flow forward through a universal catalytic converter, and then send it back into the existing muffler, then out the side. Apparently side exhaust is acceptable, provided it exits behind the driver.

Andrew


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PostPosted: March 4, 2018, 1:19 pm 
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If you need a creative muffler solution with your new exhaust routing you might think about the Magnaflow 14210. https://www.magnaflow.com/products?partNumber=14210 . It does a really good job of muffling but still sounds great, and takes care of that 180* bend all in one package.


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PostPosted: March 13, 2018, 1:07 pm 
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Zac88GT wrote:
If you need a creative muffler solution with your new exhaust routing you might think about the Magnaflow 14210. https://www.magnaflow.com/products?partNumber=14210 . It does a really good job of muffling but still sounds great, and takes care of that 180* bend all in one package.


That looks like the muffler to have.. im looking for a 2 inch in/out version.

The latest in video form.

https://youtu.be/IVhm7Je9y9w

Andrew

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PostPosted: March 14, 2018, 1:35 am 
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Well done Andrew. :cheers:

What did you do for revers? Can't remember.

And what is that "White" stuff out the door ? :shock: LOL

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PostPosted: March 14, 2018, 9:14 am 
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Nice video Andrew
If you are worried about the bike alternator, you can try drilling vent holes in the case to help cooling. Must bikes can support one additional driving lite without any problems. The amp draw for 2 high beams or driving lites and you are probably going to have a issue. [do you have a volt/amp gauge] One option is to replace bike stock alternator, with a small automotive unite. You can attaching a small pulley on the crank shaft, running a belt over to the unite. You will probably have to machine a taper for the pulley to fit the crank. DaveW


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PostPosted: March 15, 2018, 10:22 am 
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B85 wrote:
Well done Andrew. :cheers:

What did you do for revers? Can't remember.

And what is that "White" stuff out the door ? :shock: LOL


Thank you sir... and just for you I did more white wires. That white powdery material is snow and its a big waste of my time.. luckily we have not had much.

Great question about reverse. I always knew it may be required in nova scotia, but didnt get the confirmation until tuesday.

I had another phone call with the engineer on tuesday and he will require reverse. Deffering this solution is not a bad thing, it allows time do research and ive been looking over the years.

So the plan is to use a honda gx390 ring gear removed from the flywheel and mount it on a machined flange and bolt between the diff and driveshaft. Mount the starter over the ring gear which will bolt to the diff. As for electrical load, it will draw right from the battery through a contactor and will be similar to the engine starter motor. Clayton from Nelson BC had a simillar set.. thank you for the idea. The best part.. cheap aftermarket honda parts can be had off ebay.. i say "cheap" knowing full well an upgrade to oem may be in the future. Electric reverse also has it limits like any other electrical appliance. The starters in the turbine aircraft I have flown are typically imited to 60 or 70s on followed by cool off period. Ill have to treat reverse in this car the same.
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Davew thanks for the input.. I will say tucking that engine in a car will bring more cooling challenges than the bike. Ill need to consider cooling the stator like you mentioned. After reading your comments, i looked into the bike electrical system and the stock headlights on the bike are 2x 50/60w bulbs and the camaro are 55/65w so not nearly the spread I thought. I think ill be fine given the close wattage. I can always go to led bulbs if its a problem.

Oh and btw this is my "much simpler than reality" list:


•seat (singular), headrest amd belts.
•windshield, frame and clearing system.
•reverse gear.
•paint. Perhaps flat black epoxy primer to start.
•bumpers.
•markers/third brake light.
•exhaust "out the side" behind driver to include catalytic.

Unfortunetly, they all involve expensive parts/supplies.

Andrew

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PostPosted: March 15, 2018, 10:45 am 
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Andrew.. thanks for posting up the info about the parts sourced for your electric reverse :cheers:

..do you know what the OD is on that GX390 ring gear?

thanks-

--ccrunner

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PostPosted: March 15, 2018, 10:49 am 
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ccrunner wrote:
Andrew.. thanks for posting up the info about the parts sourced for your electric reverse :cheers:

..do you know what the OD is on that GX390 ring gear?

thanks-

--ccrunner



Not exactly sure, but as soon as it shows up im going to get into it including dimetral pitch so other gears and motor can be used. I found this pic for just the steel ring for a gx240/gx270.. lots to learn here.


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PostPosted: March 15, 2018, 10:50 am 
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Oh.. and we need to thank Clayton for figuring this out.

Andrew

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PostPosted: March 15, 2018, 11:09 am 
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Very cool.. I'm not familiar with Clayton's setup, but I remember Martin (user name "mgkluft") fabbing a very similar setup a while back.. I'm starting another BEC project in the next few months, and I was just the other day trying to rationalize paying $1300+ dollars for an inline reverse box :( , and your post reminded me that there is in fact a viable alternative- woo hoo :mrgreen:

I'll be watching to see how this goes together in your build- I know Martin said that his works well for occasional use, which is of course all most of us need... (I'm most concerned with the ring gear diameter at the diff/pinion, and how far the radius needs to dip below the pinion CL- can't have a big old ring hanging under the car...)

Big thanks for sharing and posting it up-

--ccrunner

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My '72 Honda N600 build log (bike engine in a microcar)...
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 36&t=14452

My '63 Volvo 1800 with a turbo inline 4 build log (LNF Ecotec compliments a Svelte Swede)
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

My '59 Berkeley 492 / VFR800 transplant build: "A Berkeley With Bite!"


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PostPosted: March 15, 2018, 12:00 pm 
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ccrunner wrote:
Very cool.. I'm familiar with Clayton's setup too.. I'm starting another BEC project in the next few months, and I was just the other day trying to rationalize paying $1300+ dollars for an inline reverse box :( , and your post reminded me that there is in fact a viable alternative- woo hoo :mrgreen:

I'll be watching to see how this goes together in your build- I know Clayton said that his works well for occasional use, which is of course all most of us need... (I'm most concerned with the ring gear diameter at the diff/pinion, and how far the radius needs to dip below the pinion CL- can't have a big old ring hanging under the car...)

Big thanks for sharing and posting it up-

--ccrunner


Thank you and others ill do my best to document this.

Yes, 1300 goes a long way for locost building.. ive been bad for not exactly embracing that philosophy for the chasis and body work on my build.. going forward I really need to get the most mileage for the dollar..

The pic of the ring gear is metric so the overal diameter is roughly 8 inches. No hanging below in my build. I will need to do some cutting and welding on my frame to accomodate the ring gear.

Other wise, im burning time in my newark hotel room and been thinking of a lockout/protection circuit for reverse. The goal is to only be able to select reverse once conditions are met. For that ill be using the neutral signal and the clutch signal to arm the system.

For the sake of your drivetrain you do not want an inadvertant reverse selection, or fwd gear selection when the car is in motion. So, the system will be armed with moving a toggle switch to postion, this arm the clutch pedal relay. Right away we are removeing the engine rotation from the gearbox and protecting the weakest link, gears or clucth, I dont know. Next the clutch switch will pass power to a relay closed only by the neutral light/switch. At only this point power will be available to the reverse lights and the momentary switch that controls the contactor.

This diagram should help. Basically you cant select reverse untill neutral and clutch depressed, and as soon as a gear selection is made or clutch released, the circuit will disarm. What this wont do is prevent reverse engagement while travelling forward with conditions met.
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Perhaps overly complicated, but it would only take a momentary brainfart to strip a gear on the starter parts.

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