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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: January 26, 2019, 12:38 pm 
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
That is one sweet looking ride Andrew! :cheers:

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PostPosted: January 26, 2019, 10:47 pm 
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Thank you everyone for the kind words.. happy guy to see the project moving past another hurdle..

Rod. It needs some other colour to it, grey and black accents, maybe some dark blue. I need gray for other items so that will be the first to be added. The paint is full of defects and inclusions. Ideally, I'd colour sand and clear coat... maybe next winter.

Carguy123: yes. Once a 2nd seat is built!

Paul, thank you. This forum is full of inspiration, this is the best place for it..

Tim, here is Kentucky's boiler and pressure vessel law. http://dhbc.ky.gov/boilers/Pages/default.aspx

Im not sure how serious they take compressed air receivers but california is very defined, more than 150psi and 1.5 cups, Inpsection and permits required. Of course most consumer products are exempt.

Friday I took those pictures after bolting on the side pods and other items without the intention of taking them off. The front under tray needed some reinforcement. It was solid riveted with some 7075-t6 bulbed angle I had collected years back. Installed wet with primer.

A bunch of brake fluid leaked at the back of the car when the lines were removed to accommodate the frame repair for the reverse system. The grey paint is a low grade epoxy that doesn't resist brake fluid, and lifting occurred. I spent a day getting that cleaned up, stripped and painted. The yellow primer is far superior to the gray stuff, even though they're both epoxies. From the firewall back is where I'd like gloss grey paint aswell.

Also cleaning up the cooling system manifolds. A redo with welded aluminum pipe may be in order after its road legal.

Ordered up my new toolbox/shelf last week as well. My tool collection grows along with family storage needs. The brand is rousseau metal from Quebec. Pretty much right up there with lista, vidmar etc. I wanted a dedicated cabinet, but the shelf with drawers offers the best use of space..

The reverse ring gear should be done this week as well. The machinist wanted the diff flange for fit up so off it came. The diff pinion seal was leaking so it was justified to remove it. Getting a new seal is no problem. Apparantly the crush collar is NLA, so it will be a guess on pinion bearing pre load when it goes back together.. as long as I promise my self to replace with the collar with a solid spacer before it drives in anger. I'd like to replace the gears as well. 4.10 are in it now.. but I do have 3.58 gears.

More pics


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PostPosted: February 1, 2019, 1:57 pm 
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https://youtu.be/mkuLLwoJCUM

Electric reverse, video now, pictures and story later..

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PostPosted: February 1, 2019, 6:59 pm 
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Nice job! :cheers:

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PostPosted: February 1, 2019, 8:40 pm 
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Looks great!

I'm surprised that you call that primer "yellow". Looks green to me. Or is that an AME industry slang thing to call it yellow?

Do you have to put a front license plate on the car? If so, where and how are you planning to install it so that it doesn't destroy the lines of the nose? If you need a front plate have you considered having the official metal plate scanned and printed onto self adhesive reflective material and sticking it on the nose (and maybe printing it at 75% of regular size)?

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PostPosted: February 1, 2019, 9:28 pm 
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Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia
He's lucky. Here in NS we don't have front plates. :-)

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PostPosted: February 1, 2019, 9:49 pm 
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Thanks MV8.

BHR, haha.. tech data sheet says yellow, I've also noted colour changes based on thickness and whether the substate is transparent, it also says "do not spray to full hide", which I am doing. This is a topcoat primer vs an interior primer, yes there is a difference.. interior primers have talc as an additive to bulk it out for abrasion for secondary bonding, ie polysulphide sealants. I've mixed a few cups, once cured, the bottom of the cup is more yellow than the top.. perhaps the titanium dioxide pigment settling to the bottom.. after all, a translucent application wouldn't hide the yellow pigment settling out. Just some speculation from an amateur chemist..

Some good tips on the license plate, no front plate required here in NS. The body lines will be broken with a front bumper!! :ack:

Warren, I like your wrap around bumper design, I'm going to do something similar.

... reverse gear.. I had a buddy who does work for a local shop machine the flywheel for me on a 30hp lathe. Crazy machine.. the pinion flange fits snug in the recess. The part was frozen between two slabs of dry ice and the gear was placed on. I cold blued the part and waxed it for corrosion protection.

A couple of brackets were fabbed up and welded.. welding on the car with the tig can be a challenge. Not the prettiest welds!.

Made a few tools to make life easier for me. I dont own a lathe( yet), so I kinda hack my way through making bushings.. I use the carbide cold saw, deburr, and ream the bore.. the challenge is holding the small piece and reaming the center. I made a soft jaw to clamp the bushings while reaming.. works great..

Otherwise, gave it a test run and, jammed the gears, added .0625 washer as a shim and it meshes well.

As for the diff, crush sleeves are still available through toyota, so I'm good there, my reading is 50/50 on replacing the crush sleeve for a seal replacement only. I ordered a 0-30 in lbs torque meter to check preload on the pinion bearings, it should he here in two weeks. I do plan on swapping gears at some point for 3.42 or 3.58s whatever is in the truck diff I have. I need a few other items for that project, dial indicator and mag base, bigger torque wrench, making the holding fixtures and tools.. plus the bearing kit. Need some guidance here.

Pics


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PostPosted: February 2, 2019, 12:14 pm 
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Location: Glendale AZ
What was the ring gear and flywheel from ? I missed it your were going a little fast for me . LOL

Looks great !

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PostPosted: February 2, 2019, 12:31 pm 
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B85. Thank you.

Starter and ring gear are from a honda gx390 industrial engine.. pressure washer, plate compactors, generators etc.. you can order a complete electric start kit for 100ish and use the required parts.

Originally, the ring gear was mounted on a cast flywheel.. I cut that off. The flywheel you see was custom machined.

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PostPosted: February 3, 2019, 11:33 am 
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Location: Glendale AZ
Got a ring gear and starter on order. Great info.

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PostPosted: February 3, 2019, 1:00 pm 
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Assuming the honda starter system is designed to turn the honda motor at 200 rpm, that should put you at 3-4 mph depending on the tire and diff ratio.

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PostPosted: February 3, 2019, 5:53 pm 
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Wonder how you could make a soft start for the electric motor ?

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PostPosted: February 3, 2019, 9:52 pm 
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Joined: January 31, 2012, 12:49 pm
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Location: Louisville KY
arduino?

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PostPosted: February 4, 2019, 10:05 am 
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I think that once the motor actually has work to do, i.e. to actually move the weight of the vehicle, there will be an inherent soft start. PWM soft start will not work if the starter has inertia gear engagement.

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PostPosted: February 10, 2019, 6:37 pm 
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Guys... if all goes to plan.. I could be testing electric reverse next week. I need to keep in mind, this system is to pass inspection, it may not be the smoothest, the inherent initial loading is going to soften the start like rx7 mentioned..

Got wrapped up this past week chasing a/f and 02 sensor problems in my tacoma.. some honey dos and sleeping off some late nights at work.. plane rolls into the gate at midnight, home at 1am, and up at 545am with the girls to get them off to work and school, then back to bed before the next shift.


Some work done, cleaning and painting. Damaged my small wire brush I use for clean up. Found these walter ones that are rated for the speed of my die grinder.

I took the starter apart to layout holes for a bracket.. it was a real pain to get back together and the spring loaded brushes all poped out.. i used small tie wraps to hold them in after fighting it with my fingers..

Also got spendy on torque wrenches lately. I only have a qualty 50-200in lbs for small hardware. The diff requires a 0-30 torque meter. My 1/2 drive princess auto one shouldnt be trusted to a diff rebuild. So I scooped up a few clearance CDI wrenches last week. The torquemeter was an ebay find. Im putting things on the car with torque and or loctite now without the intention of removing them. Carol smiths books are a good read.. there is alot in a small nut and bolt system, i figure a quality torque wrenche(s) is justified.. and i like nice tools and am ocd with some things. Spend money on the car or tools? I gravitate to the later.


As for the diff. I replaced the seal with a napa seal.. all good. I "creeped up" on the pinion nut untill I got the total preload of 15 inch lbs. The pinion was at the low end of the drag torque spec, so i figured i could reuse the crush sleeve and re torque slightly more to the higher end of the spec. However i didnt like the feel of things.. rotational torque was spot on, but the breakaway torque was up there.. more than 30 inch lbs.. might go solid spacer. Thinking on this one.

Otherwise, heres some pics.


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