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PostPosted: August 18, 2022, 8:22 pm 
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
So it's been awhile. I've been busy working on the motorhome. Installed an auto gen set start system. Installed a couple of inverters. Installed 3 12V power points in 3 cubby's, so now I can plug in my 12v cooler, pellet grill, and 12v TV outside the motorhome. I can now also watch the big TV and Apple tv inside the motorhome via an inverter. Any time the coach batteries drop below 11V the gen set auto starts, runs for 2 hours to charge the batteries, then shuts down, continuing to monitor the coach battery voltage.
Got 2 dirt bikes running for the grandkids.

BUT! But today I had the chance to introduce the engine/trans to the frame.
Attachment:
IMG_4051.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_4053.jpg


I've determined fore/aft position. Engine height places it so that I have 1/2" clearance when I run a straight line from front to back.
BUT! But there is a snafu, the fiberglass hood has a mean 1/2" sag to it. As it sits the hood contacts the oil fill cap. Dropping the engine further down is not an option.
Attachment:
IMG_4054.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_4056.jpg


Putting it out there for suggestions to get rid of the sag. I'm thinking of flipping the hood between 2 saw horses, sand bag the middle and apply controlled heat from below.
Looking for any advice, thanks


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PostPosted: August 18, 2022, 9:42 pm 
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Is the sag related to the hold down toggles? It looks like it might be from here. If so, try taking it off and put it in the sunlight upside down for several hours. it might relax. On my hardtop, I added fiberglass reinforcements over a thin wooden piece about 1/2" square around the edges. I think it did its job. You could do the same. You might have to drill a few holes and screw it to something flat (plywood?) when adding the ribs to get the bonnet to lay flat during the process. Then later, repair the screw holes. It might work.

Tha fallback is to form a locost-esqe bonnet out of aluminum. You know how to do that by now. :cheers:

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PostPosted: August 19, 2022, 8:44 pm 
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Or put a slit down the centre of the hood, brace the centreline straight (which will open the slit) and add glass to fill what will be a long skinny lens-shaped opening.

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PostPosted: August 20, 2022, 11:06 am 
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I'd wedge it up with a 2x4 along the hinge and latched, flood lamp from the top, and check the progress daily.
You may want to lower the drive train a bit to leave clearance for a 3/8 inch support rib for the bonnet.
The rub can be layed up on a sheet of plastic over something flat like glass and the rib formed with a waxed dowel or piece of tubing, then removed once fully cured leaving a flanged U rib to epoxy to the bonnet. Light and stiff.

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PostPosted: August 21, 2022, 11:21 am 
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Thanks for the ideas guys.
I will try flipping the hood and sand bagging the sag with heat, but I don't have much faith in that.
The fiberglass is ~3/16" thick.
Slitting and glassing the gap is most likely what I'll end up doing.

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"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
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PostPosted: August 22, 2022, 7:40 pm 
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It takes time, checking, and adjusting to bring it back. It came out of a mold right, then somebody used it as a table for a while.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: August 24, 2022, 9:50 am 
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
So I took some time off getting the MH ready for tripping south and built the Gazelle hood an oven.
Put in a 1500W heater, made a jig to measure what's happening.
Attachment:
IMG_4093.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_4096.jpg


Waited about 1/2 hour and saw the ruler move 1/16" in the right direction.
I said to myself "self, I am going to grow old waiting for this to happen". Then I had an inspirational thought from the great Tim the Toolman Taylor! What I need is more power!!!
So I upped the btu's a bit.
Attachment:
IMG_4097.jpg


After 45 minutes and ~188° the hood center moved 9/16" in the right direction. Still have to work the ends a bit, but now I have the clearance I need.
Attachment:
IMG_4098.jpg


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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: August 24, 2022, 12:40 pm 
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I like it! I will need to flatten one of my clamshell fenders. Mind if I steel your process?

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PostPosted: August 24, 2022, 2:38 pm 
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Tim ‘the tool man’ Taylor...my hero! Looks like more power did the trick. Looks great.
Cheers,
Eric

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PostPosted: August 25, 2022, 9:20 am 
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BostonWill wrote:
I like it! I will need to flatten one of my clamshell fenders. Mind if I steel your process?

Absolutely Thom, be my guest :cheers:

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: August 25, 2022, 9:22 am 
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ohmite wrote:
Tim ‘the tool man’ Taylor...my hero! Looks like more power did the trick. Looks great.
Cheers,
Eric

Thanks Eric, I see there's a new show with 'Tim' and 'Al' starting up on tv.

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: August 26, 2022, 9:33 am 
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No spring back with fiberglass?

Very innovative technique though, Perry.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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PostPosted: August 26, 2022, 10:12 pm 
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Lonnie-S wrote:
No spring back with fiberglass?

Very innovative technique though, Perry.

Cheers,
Yes there is Lonnie, I waited to see 9/16" when heated to try and get 1/2" as an end result, there's still more tweaking ahead, but it's a work in progress :cheers:

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: August 26, 2022, 10:27 pm 
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Bit of an update.
Fabbed up the motor mounts. Couple pics. Will be adding gussets under the horizontal 2"x2" pieces.
Attachment:
IMG_4109.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_4110.jpg


Then fabbed up the trans mount br@cket and welded it to the mid section cross member.
Attachment:
IMG_4112.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_4111.jpg


Installed the cross member. The frame now supports the eng/trans assembly. With a 6 1/2" ride height the 2"x2" cross member underslung on the frame brings the ride height to 4 1/2" just like my Locosts'. Will be adding a cross member at the front under the oil pan as well, and putting a cross brace connecting each upper front coilover mount.
Attachment:
IMG_4113.jpg


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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: August 28, 2022, 7:22 pm 
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Firewall roughed in and fiberglass seat pan frame roughed in.
Attachment:
IMG_4121.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_4122.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_4120.jpg


Fabbed up the the fuel tank cross member and hold down br@cketz
Attachment:
IMG_4123.jpg


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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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