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The converter is a stock replacement. The Vette converter is pretty tight.

Ken

Thanks Mate

just out of curiousity what is the distance from the front of the LS block to the rear axle centerline and what is necessary to mate the LS engine to the Corvette trans. One third question, if you want to run the standard trans, what do you need to use for shift linkage or is paddle shift?

AL

The overall length of the engine/tranaxle package is about 54". That is without any accessories on the front. The distance to the axle centerline is about 47".

You need a crank spacer to mount the engine and tranny, and also the LT1 style bellhousing. That will still leave a small gap between the flexplate and converter. I used washers for this. The bolt holes have to be elongated a bit as well.

As for mating the manual to the engine, read back through the thread and you will see a fair amount of discussion on this. It's been done by one supercar company, but never detailed.

Ken

I finally got my car back on track this past weekend. I basically missed all of last year when the engine let go. I got another engine (6.0L iron block) in it earlier this year, but it only lasted a run or two before it let go as well. I still haven't pulled that engine apart, but I believe there was a problem with the lines going to the wastegates letting the pressure build too high. The car made lots of power right before it let go.

After going through two engines with the turbo I decided to bite the bullet and get a LS2 (all aluminum). The turbo made tons of torque, but not a lot of power (350 to the wheels). It was just not large enough. The car made it through 2.5 days of solid track time with only a few issues (electrical and one trans cooler hose let go). The engine ran great.

I also weighed the car again:

Total weight: 2219 (2441 with turbo and iron block)
Front: 39%
LF/RR: 55%
Left: 50%

So, the block and turbo components were worth 220+ pounds (I added a fire bottle since it was weighed last). The diagonal weights changed by a few percentage points. I'm not sure why, but I will get them adjusted.

It was great to have the car running reliably again. I did take some video, but I haven't processed it yet. Now, I'm going to start focusing on some chassis tuning and cleaning up the electrical system (new engine required all new harness and ECU).

Thanks for the update Ken, waiting for the vid!

Hi Ken

Thanks for the update , good to know what the weight of a turbo setup(and iron block) weigh as I was wondering about that for a while. I have read that some of the later model wet sumped LS engines (ls2/ls3) have oil starvation problems at high lateral G's. Apparently the fix is the old c5 batwing pan . Or an accusump

Phil

Phil
I have been using an Accusump since I built the car. I bought this LS2 from the T1 champion and he confirmed they did blow a number of engines. However, he said he was maintaining 1.4G's and was revving the engine pretty high. I had a few passengers this weekend and had them watch the oil pressure gauge. It never went below 30-40 PSI. I run used R compound tires and keep the rev limiter stock or below stock. I also use a mechanical valve with the Accusump instead of the electric sensor and solenoid. I believe the electric system is too slow to react to low pressure.

Ken

I have finally decided that the automatic just isn't going to cut it. It's just too sensitive to the fluid level and I haven't been able to get the 2-3 shift where I want it.

I had a Muncie trans laying around and a couple of Corvette diffs. See the pics below. That is a prototype adapter made of oak holding the two pieces together. The real adapter will be machined from a plate of aluminum. The downside is that I lose reverse, but for a track only car I figured I would give it a shot.








The next challenge is figuring out the shifter. Does anyone have any experience with air shifters?

Ken

Why would you lose reverse? The Muncie had a reverse.

_________________
mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

Reverse is located in the tailhousing, which has been removed. To get reverse, I would have to go with a Saginaw (which I didn't have in the garage) or a Jerico (out of the budget at the moment). On the auto setup, the shifter cable melted a few times, so I didn't have reverse then either. It really isn't a big deal on the track.

Ken

Have you taken any measurements of the new setup? I'd be interested to see how the two compare as far as length between the back of the engine and the outputs on the diff.

Fred

_________________
There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.

This setup is about 23.5" from the engine block to the half shafts.

Ken

Yes. Back in the day when I worked for Norgen, I worked on my projects with air shifters. the complicated part is the valving and if required the programming. I am assuming you are referring to just a simple rpm switch for 1-4 gears?

_________________
My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

The car currently has a custom transmission controller my dad built that allows push button shifting of the automatic. Where I eventually want to go with the manual is push button (or a lever with micro switches) control. The plan would be electrically controlled air valves. I don't know much about pneumatic control, but the from the research my friends and I have done, I should be able to control gears 1-4 with two three position air cylinders. I say eventually, because I don't think it will be much benefit with the Muncie and its syncros. However, my longterm goal is to use a clutchless transmission like the Tex T101. The end result would be a H-pattern trans that would be controlled sequentially and without using the clutch for shifts.

Ken