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 Post subject: Re: wyked's 3-wheeler
PostPosted: April 28, 2015, 7:00 am 
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Joined: August 12, 2012, 6:38 pm
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Location: worcester county, Massachsetts
thanks! I bought tghe header from a BMW K75 with the idea of modifying it to fit. the bore spacing on the K75 is a lot closer than onthe XS850, but I can make it work. part of that idea is to also move the entire exhaust to the passenger side of the machine, as that will help balance symmetry. right now with the B-3 empty, there's 50 lbs more on the drivers side front than the passenger side.

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 Post subject: Re: wyked's 3-wheeler
PostPosted: July 5, 2015, 8:32 pm 
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Location: Downingtown, PA
Finally so close to being back on the road I can taste it. But not there yet. The wiring is all done, the engine was filled with oil and coolant and it fired right up. Trying to get all of the air out of the coolant system and I realized the thermostat is not opening as the coolant lines are staying cool (Fans turned on when they were supposed to though). My current theory is that I still have an air pocket in the block that is not allowing the thermostat to see the actual coolant/temp and therefor not opening. Well, I should have done a little more homework on the coolant system before hand. Looks like there is a hose that goes from the thermostat housing to to the top of the radiator with the purpose of venting the air from the thermostat? I split and hooked this line up to the radiators in the same spot without realizing it's purpose, as the radiators are now lower than the stock position. So I'm thinking the air is trapped in/below the thermostat. The right thing to do would be to run this hose to a nipple in the standpipe/radiator cap tubing which is the high point in the system, assuming I'm correct about it's purpose. Can't find a 7/8" to 1/4" reducing tee so I may have to make one. Is there some other leak proof shortcut way to add a nipple to the middle of a coolant hose? Or I can do a short term fix of just allowing that hose to purge to a temporary catch can that drains back into the open radiator cap just to get the system flowing...

In other news, the machining of my new cush drive jacktube is done. I powder coated the pieces, installed the gears, bearings and rubber elements so its ready to install. Hopefully it fits properly in the swingarm, the sprockets all line up, and actually functions as designed.


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 Post subject: Re: wyked's 3-wheeler
PostPosted: July 19, 2015, 3:56 pm 
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Okay, I have myself in a bit of a situation. I was ready for the first test drive with the new engine this week and it turns out the clutch isn't working. I thought maybe the disks were just stuck so I put it up on jack stands and ran it in gear but still couldn't get them to free up. Then I thought maybe I screwed up the actuation somehow when I installed the HD clutch while it was out of the bike? Problem is I know the clutch cover is tight to the frame. Sure enough one of the bottom bolts hit the frame before it releases. Otherwise I think I could get the cover off and go through the clutch install again. So now I appear to have 2 choices:
- Pull everything apart, coolant system, exhaust, drivetrain, etc. and pull the engine out of the frame to get at the clutch (very very undesirable).
- Cut/modify the frame tube that is blocking the cover (also undesirable, but may actually be the faster/easier option).

So what are peoples thoughts/experience on either cutting out the section and welding in a modified/bent section, or just making a curved cut in the tube and weld in a bent flat section to box in the curvature?


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 Post subject: Re: wyked's 3-wheeler
PostPosted: July 19, 2015, 7:59 pm 
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Since this is not just a one time event I'd say modify the frame because you're going to have to do it sometime.

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 Post subject: Re: wyked's 3-wheeler
PostPosted: July 19, 2015, 8:30 pm 
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carguy123 wrote:
Since this is not just a one time event I'd say modify the frame because you're going to have to do it sometime.


X2... As carguy stated; Sooner or later someone's going to be after that clutch anyway- might as well mod it now...

(For what it's worth, I vote for cutting out the entire chunk and replacing it with a curved piece...)

--ccrunner

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 Post subject: Re: wyked's 3-wheeler
PostPosted: July 19, 2015, 9:20 pm 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 8:12 am
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Cut the tube at 45* thru both red lines. Do the same 45* cut for a 2nd longer tube that you weld on the bottom. If you have the room over lap the tube ends by 1 1/2 the tube size. weld Filler plates on all four of the open ends. Dave W


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 Post subject: Re: wyked's 3-wheeler
PostPosted: July 20, 2015, 5:51 am 
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Thanks for the replies guys!

carguy123 wrote:
Since this is not just a one time event I'd say modify the frame because you're going to have to do it sometime.

Agreed whole heartedly. I should have planned better for this initially, but I'm sure it won't be the only time I need to get that cover off.

davew wrote:
Cut the tube at 45* thru both red lines. Do the same 45* cut for a 2nd longer tube that you weld on the bottom. If you have the room over lap the tube ends by 1 1/2 the tube size. weld Filler plates on all four of the open ends. Dave W

Hadn't thought of that option. I like it though!


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 Post subject: Re: wyked's 3-wheeler
PostPosted: July 20, 2015, 10:21 am 
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Location: West Chicago,IL
Alternatively, you could just cut that section out and make it a removable, bolt-in section. Close off all four open ends. Then add a 1/8" tab to the top and bottom surfaces of the cut-out. Weld in a crush tube in the 2 frame pieces, and Bob's your uncle.

Disclaimer: While I think this should work, I have done no analysis.

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 Post subject: Re: wyked's 3-wheeler
PostPosted: July 21, 2015, 7:24 am 
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Joined: August 12, 2012, 6:38 pm
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Location: worcester county, Massachsetts
Hey Wyked, that's just the experience I had with my alternator cover when I refreshed the B-3 clutch. My solution was to undo the motor mounts (and the exhaust) and pick up the engine enough to clear. But...

I like both Daves and RX7's ideas. considering your low ground clearance, if it was me, I'd take Dave W's idea but jog the rail out sidewards, rather than down. if you go RX7s route, use two bolts on each end, otherwise the removable beam will be able to pivot slightly under vibration, and the tube ends might fret against each other.

good luck! good to see progress on the proj ;-)

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 Post subject: Re: wyked's 3-wheeler
PostPosted: July 23, 2015, 7:43 pm 
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Well, that was a complete waste of time. Well, not really as I will eventually need to get to the clutch again, but it turned out to not be necessary at this time. That mechanical stop I thought I was feeling was actually the clutch springs (which I think are actually out of a pickup truck). I just had the actuating lever travel completely wrong in my head. I just had to shorten up the linkages for the clutch as where I had the end of travel was actually right where it started to engage. Not one of my finer moments but live and learn. The clutch is VERY stiff and effectively an on/off switch. I'll try it for awhile but I may switch back to the stock springs to see if I actually get any slippage (good thing I can get the cover off now). Well, enough beating myself up, time for the good news...

Took her out for for the first drive with the new engine. I was expecting chain tension issues as I once again had to rig up a skateboard wheel for the primary drive to take up the slack but it actually did well. Some off throttle noise but not bad. The new cush drive worked as designed and I no longer have jerky starts and off-throttle momentum snapping at the transmission. Very happy with that. The coolant temps seemed good, Looking forward to not constantly sweating overheating!! Going to have to get used to the heavy clutch. Version 1.0 had zero clutch effort or feel, so this is a big change. Overall very happy, plan to slowly work up in terms of length of trips to be sure everything shakes out well.

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 Post subject: Re: wyked's 3-wheeler
PostPosted: July 23, 2015, 9:54 pm 
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Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
Wyked
I would play with the clutch pedal ratio. A small adjustment in the attachment point, will make a world of difference in pedal effort. Dave W


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 Post subject: Re: wyked's 3-wheeler
PostPosted: July 24, 2015, 8:46 am 
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Location: worcester county, Massachsetts
davew wrote:
Wyked
I would play with the clutch pedal ratio. A small adjustment in the attachment point, will make a world of difference in pedal effort. Dave W


WHat he said. you need to increase the ratio of the foot pedal arm segment, over the clutch cable arm segment. lengthening the foot pedl side will spread the engagement range out over the travel of the pedal.

good work on the improvements!

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 Post subject: Re: wyked's 3-wheeler
PostPosted: July 24, 2015, 8:43 pm 
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Thanks guys. I found today it's easier if I have my heel on the floor. That may sound obvious but for whatever reason I noticed I'm just stabbing at the pedal with my foot completely off the floor. When I force myself to plant my heel it doesn't seem as bad and I'm able to control the clutch better. I think I need to put a piece of angle or something across the floor section behind the pedals for my heel to push against. I put the side panels back on today after work and went for another ride. Once again I'm realizing how bad my alignment was the first time. It's not nearly as twitchy, doesn't follow every bump in the road. I'm able to not have a death grip on the steering wheel so it's more enjoyable. Here is some updated pictures. It still bothers me that they made me move the brake light, turn signals and license plate over and behind the axis of the rear wheel. It just doesn't look right with that hanging out there. Oh well. I don't see it while I'm driving.


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 Post subject: Re: wyked's 3-wheeler
PostPosted: July 24, 2015, 9:10 pm 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 8:12 am
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Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
Wyked
I would mock up the heel stop just using a piece of wood and then try out the location first, and then trim it down if needed, before fab'ing it out of metal. Or design the stop so you can move it +/_ 3/4" . You would surprised how just a 1/2" change in location make an improvement in pedal feel. The reason I suggest mock it up. It took me 3 tries to get it just right and my rest was for all 3 pedals.
I think you could just move the tail light rearward over the center of the wheel but attached at the base of your long mounting tube so the plate and lites are just above the rear fender.
Dave W


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 Post subject: Re: wyked's 3-wheeler
PostPosted: July 24, 2015, 9:22 pm 
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Location: worcester county, Massachsetts
Actually, I don't think the position of the taillight/turn signals is so bad (That's pretty much the same location as mine) rather that long cantilevered tube detracts from the look. Plus I'd expect that long cantilever to vibrate and flex a bunch, over time weakening the joint...

If it was me, I'd swap that mount for a triangulate structure, one straight tube from the central spine, and two from each side, perhaps with some riveted panels between

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