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 Post subject: Re: Locost 11 R1
PostPosted: October 20, 2014, 1:10 pm 
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Here is a photo of one of the mount bearings. And their are some polyurethane on some others.


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 Post subject: Re: Locost 11 R1
PostPosted: October 20, 2014, 1:16 pm 
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gregk wrote:
robbovius wrote:
Tho I've read this assertion before - that pavement suspension loads are somehow higher than off-road suspension loads - I've never seen any numbers to support it, and have always noticed that for a given vehicle weight, off-road suspension bits seem rather beefier than the comparable street or pavement components.


I imagine this is based on the fact that dirt/gravel is less grippy than asphalt/concrete. The assertion would be true if your idea of "off-road" is driving on a nice graded dirt road, but spirited driving in an actual off-road setting involves significant shock loading. In my experience, going fast off road requires much stronger suspension than going fast on pavement, stiffness and preventing compliance is generally low on the list of priorities though.

Personally, I'd be much more concerned with the compliance of those rubber bushings than with the strength of the wheel bearings.


i agree ... my main concern would be the narrow spacing / high load of the upper and lower pivot points,
as well as material quality (are the hubs and knuckles simple cast aluminum or are they pressure cast/forged like most automotive aluminum suspension parts ?!?)

i do have some experience with offroad driving :wink: ;
imho the "grip" or "bite" in turns (especially the "hook" you get in sand) can exceed the grip of slicks on pavement
add to that ruts of previous vehicles and your rear uprights/knuckles get very high g-forces (similar to sliding into a curb)
thats also the main reason why we usually run beadlock rims on all 4 tires ... a good "hook" can peel non-beadlocked tires right off the rim :shock:

but i personally would not trust UTV parts on a car ... even when the newer UTV are approaching locost weight
the high cofg UTV`s seem to tip over long before they reach the g-forces of a low cofg car :roll: :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: Locost 11 R1
PostPosted: October 20, 2014, 1:45 pm 
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Well looked quickly into it, and the bearings themselves are an automotive part (VW jetta) so probably fine for street use (as long as there isn't an unusual amount of leverage on it). Offroad sees higher loads from impacts, but the constant high loading and heat from trackdays will destroy under-sized bearings pretty quick too. Be neat to see what has the higher average side-loading per hour of use. Maybe I should try to get a government grant to study it :wink:

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 Post subject: Re: Locost 11 R1
PostPosted: November 13, 2014, 8:42 pm 
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I have never been happy with the rear uprights. So I'm back looking at building them again out of flat steel sheet.
Now I'm getting all the old players out to rethink things. :ack:

The RZR stuff is a away, but for now I will just try to go with what I have. :wink:

Vented rotor is a front, 1994 FWD Subaru.
Caliper is Wilwood. :roll:
Bearing is 87 Fiero. 5 x 100
And the stub in the baring is also Fiero but cut down. What a pain,that stuff is HARD ! :ack:

In the photo you will see a note about the mounting flange being in the hole. Do you think I could use a alum. spacer to fill that area up to the steel plate that will also mount the brake caliper and the other mounts ? Or just make it out of steel ?

Randy


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 Post subject: Re: Locost 11 R1
PostPosted: November 13, 2014, 9:04 pm 
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I'd make a steel shim and weld it to the upright/caliper bracket.

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 Post subject: Re: Locost 11 R1
PostPosted: November 14, 2014, 10:12 pm 
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Thanks Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F. You need a nickname ! :mrgreen:

Did some more cutting today. And I think this stuff is hardened all the way ! Had to make .005 cuts. but its done.


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 Post subject: Re: Locost 11 R1
PostPosted: November 15, 2014, 4:26 pm 
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Did some welding. :shock: 0 run out ! Now will the welds hold ? Time will tell . :roll:


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 Post subject: Re: Locost 11 R1
PostPosted: November 15, 2014, 11:35 pm 
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Now on to 1/4" MDF. Cuts faster than steel plate. :ack:
By Sunday I should have a good idea of what the upright will look like ? :roll:
Also need to go find the coilover at the shop .


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 Post subject: Re: Locost 11 R1
PostPosted: November 16, 2014, 12:16 am 
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Thinking about something like this ?


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 Post subject: Re: Locost 11 R1
PostPosted: November 16, 2014, 7:39 pm 
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Some ideas from today. What do you think ?
The lower bolt is for the coil over.
I will build spacers to keep things in double shear. Or ? other ideas ?
The big disc is 12" and this will fit into a 14" wheel. Try ed it in a 13" wheel but it would need to be a 1/2" smaller. Like 11 1/2" or maybe 11" to fit. But I'm not going that small. Chassis arm mounts are 9 1/4" so I am trying to keep that at the wheel.

One thing I did do is to push out from the wheel the upper arm mount. Think is 1/2 shorter than the bottom ? This will add some camber .

:cheers:


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 Post subject: Re: Locost 11 R1
PostPosted: November 16, 2014, 9:42 pm 
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Randy
imho your relaying too much on the base plate
i would connect more of the vertical tabs (like the one you did already)

here is the fabricated uprights/knuckles i did some years back for a couple sand/desert cars

Image

Image

Image

simple triangle design ... never had one of the uprights fail
note how the upper and lower bushings share the tab made out of flat steel stock
i used hollow "full floater" spindle snouts (stub axles do not carry any load)
with iirc 35 spline aluminum Speedway Engineering "GN" circle track hubs

here is another one, this time with outboard brakes :

Image

Image

this one uses 13" rotors, 41 spline 3ooM stubs/axles and the large 935 CV`s

again, stupid simple design :P
but they are holding up very well ... even on that 1000+hp/4000 lbs truggy

i hope this is helpful or inspirational :cheers:

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 Post subject: Re: Locost 11 R1
PostPosted: November 17, 2014, 4:03 pm 
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At the very least I'd add a band around the outside but I'd seriously consider going with something boxed. The bearing attachment is the highest load out of anything and you're bolting it to the middle of a plate. Its either going to flex like crazy or you'll have to use thick and heavy plate to make it stiff enough.

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 Post subject: Re: Locost 11 R1
PostPosted: November 17, 2014, 4:13 pm 
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with that small disc diameter (and light weight car) i would skip the large 4 piston caliper
a compact 2 piston dynalite would give you a lot more room for the upright/knuckle

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 Post subject: Re: Locost 11 R1
PostPosted: November 18, 2014, 5:37 pm 
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Some welding and turning today. Still working on the upright.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Randy

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 Post subject: Re: Locost 11 R1
PostPosted: November 24, 2014, 5:50 pm 
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Checking how it will fit ?


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