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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: March 13, 2012, 12:00 am 
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Congrats on the milestone! :cheers:

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PostPosted: March 13, 2012, 12:37 am 
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KB58 wrote:

She runs! Backed her out into the driveway and drove her back in. At least the gears ended up where they were supposed to.



I don't get it, you ran it on a dyno in 2010....?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=68wRgYg6yIk


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PostPosted: March 13, 2012, 12:42 am 
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I liked the gills between the front wishbones...

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PostPosted: March 13, 2012, 9:58 am 
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cheapracer wrote:
... I don't get it, you ran it on a dyno in 2010....?

Yes, but at the time it was in no condition to be driven (half the brake system wasn't yet installed) so while it was a roller it wasn't really drivable. (Note how the dynomometer bolts to the hubs.) There is/was so much else to be done, the actual act of driving it just wasn't that big a deal. Said another way, mentally, driving it meant little, knowing I still had 500 hrs of work to do on paneling and wiring, hence the delay.

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PostPosted: March 13, 2012, 1:17 pm 
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That is sooo cool! When I was making the pattern for the catfish (pronounced KATE-fish) nose I never knew it would end up a part of something so all around nifty! Man, if Midlana handles and accelerates and brakes as good as it looks, you're going to sell a ton of books*.

I like the hedgehog body, with all the clecos sticking out...it gives it a serious "don't mess with me" look, and yet is far more subtle than cow horns on the hood of an ElDorado, or steel teeth on a monster truck bumper. Plus the distinctive rattling sound warns people that Something Wicked This Way Comes.

Can I visit you and Midlana around the end of the month? I've got to see it with my own eyes, and San Marcos is kinda sorta between Yuma and Cave Junction.


*And I'm going to sell a ton of noses. Thank you for choosing Kinetic Vehicles as your nose vendor.

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PostPosted: March 15, 2012, 10:48 am 
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KB58 wrote:
The drivetrain must fit the following space with a couple caveats:

Width: 45"
Height: 24"
Depth: 20"

Caveats:
Width:
Width is absolute max including side engine mounts. Less is better.

Height:
Height is absolute height, from the bottom of the pan to the top of the valve cover. This is flexible; it depends how high you're willing the valve cover (and maybe intake) to stick out above the horizontal chassis tubes. I myself don't mind the engine as a "feature." BTW, unlike a Locost the pan does not hang down below the chassis rails.

Depth:
Fore/aft. 20" means from the rear face of the head (not including whatever's behind it, to the fire wall. In my case the intake is on the forward side and the exhaust is on the rear, extending under a lateral cross tube. If your engine is reversed, with the intake on the rear, the tube must be rerouted.


Kurt,

I am fascinated by your Midlana project. The look is much improved over the standard 7 IMO. I didn't get from this how long the engine/trans can be, i.e., what is the distance from the firewall to the rear axles? Audi, VW, Subaru, Nissan all have engines that are substantially forward of the axle centerline.

Thanks.


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PostPosted: March 15, 2012, 12:08 pm 
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nofreeride wrote:
...I didn't get from this how long the engine/trans can be, i.e., what is the distance from the firewall to the rear axles? Audi, VW, Subaru, Nissan all have engines that are substantially forward of the axle centerline...

You are correct, in a FWD setup, the drivetrain is indeed forward of axle centerline. All I've done is shifted that same drivetrain back - it has not been turned around - so the drivetrain in my car is still ahead of axle centerline.

Distance from the firewall to axle centerline is about 20".

Image

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PostPosted: April 16, 2012, 6:32 am 
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Lookin' good Kurt! :cheers:

Now if I could get you interested in metal shaping you'd break away completely with some compound curved panels on the bodies for your chassis designs. It's never too late, you know.

Great job!

Dick Bear

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PostPosted: October 20, 2012, 8:14 pm 
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Been a very long time since the last update. It's not that it isn't being worked on, it's just that I forget to update this thread. In short, the chassis is complete, been painted, and it's going together "for real" now.

I have a bad habit of taking close-up pictures and few entire-car shots, so this is about the best there is for now. Currently doing suspension alignment and adjusting bump-steer. There's a lot more on the http://www.midlana.com website.

Image

Image

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Last edited by KB58 on January 13, 2013, 11:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: October 20, 2012, 8:58 pm 
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Looking good Kurt. I like the green suspension pieces on the gray frame - nice color contrast.

The integrated cage looks great as well. On the rear suspension, it looks like you could very easily add adjustable anti-squat just by drilling a few holes for the lower arm's forward attach point.

Two quick questions:
1) Is the front push-rod hitting the chassis near the upper rod-end?
2) Is the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir below the adapter cap on the master cylinder?

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PostPosted: October 20, 2012, 9:37 pm 
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a.moore wrote:
... Two quick questions:
1) Is the front push-rod hitting the chassis near the upper rod-end?
2) Is the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir below the adapter cap on the master cylinder?

It's very close on the push-rods and in fact I have depressions in the frame rails for clearance. The reservours are higher but not by much; I may end up unbolting them and holding them up high to speed bleeding.

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PostPosted: October 20, 2012, 10:17 pm 
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Ahh the wonderful clearance dimple. I've had a few of those to my name. ;)

Any concern about the system pulling air when the fluid height drops as the pads wear?

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PostPosted: October 21, 2012, 1:11 am 
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The bottom of the remote is level with the top of the master cylinder, so I don't expect any issues.

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PostPosted: December 3, 2012, 4:27 pm 
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Finally, the first test drive down the street.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KMv6R_qdM3I

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PostPosted: December 3, 2012, 4:43 pm 
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Well way cool! What a milestone!

It's looking good, Kurt. Re the gear whine, I'd wager it has as much to do with camera placement as with the straight cut 1st through 4th gears. Leaving your 'cruising gears' (5th and 6th) helical will probably pay off in the long run, with reduced distraction and fatigue.

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