LocostUSA.com

Consider me convinced....

It should be fairly easy for me to line the cover with aluminum in the tank area so I will do that.

Thanks, Alan

If you have a choice, stainless is always better. A much higher melting temperature and has about half the thermal conductivity.

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Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

Well remember that weight is a subjective thing too. In looking at it a little more, it does appear to work well with the wide of a stance you have chosen for the inner mounting points. The reason it caught my attention was just that you have 4 "tubes" in the control arm doing a job that, under different design circumstances, is often accomplished with only 3 tubes.

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-Justin

"Orville Wright did not have a pilots license." - Gordon MacKenzie

Totally agree...I'm the first one to pick on a rectangle with two diagonals where one will do..however this is a slightly different case although your point is still valid of course.

Some pics of what I did on my gear change...
The cables are standard Honda, terminated on a bracket behind the bulkhead then extended by tubes...pretty self-explantory really.

How much cross-gate travel distance is there at the knob with the stud length you have projecting out to the up-down link heim? Does it seem about right (travel, effort, etc.)?

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http://www.SportsCarDesigner.com .... You want to design your own car... so go ahead. Sports Car Designer is the answer.

At the knob end of the stick there is about 1.5" to 2" of cross gate travel. yes it does seem about right. The only other thing I'm going to do is add some spring bias to keep it more centered in 2-3 (center) gate it naturally goes there, but being a bit more positive would be nice...other than that it seems great.

Alan

One concern I'd have is for the brake pedal mount. There is alot of force going thru the pedal and it is going to twist your floor if there is not triangulation underneath. That would translate to a mushy and inconsistent brake feel. I can do a simple FEA on it later on tonight, but I'd say that it could be a problem.

Understandable concern, but the floor where they are mounted is 10g (0.135") and that may not be so obvious from the pics. They certain seem very solid.

Cheers, Alan

I modelled it up quickly and ran a quick study on it. I assumed that the distance between the center of the two longitudinal tubes was 14 inches and the tubes were 1.5in dia, .083 wall. I also set the length of the 10g steel at 12 inches. I contrained the ends of the tubes and applied a force to each pedal pad. I applied 150lbs to the brake pedal pad, and 30 for the clutch. I set brake pedal/master assembly dimensions thru the Wilwood website. Here's the result. I can upload the stress mesh if you want it. Your design doesn't have you at yielding yet, max local stress was ~30ksi and yeilding is ~50 ksi.

What did you do for brake calculations? What do you expect your max brake effort to be? I measured brake effort last year for our FSAE team, but I don't remember the number I got.

Andy, thanks...nice job. Cosmos in SW I assume?...it's what I use. I can see a vertical strip across to stiffen up the front edge would be beneficial...perhaps a change to a folded edge next time.

Cheers,

Alan

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WtbDnd86 ... 000029%204

Whoo boy, does that engine sound sweet! The car looked and sounded absolutely silky going by.

Thanks Pete, I'm really pleased how the exhaust system worked out..it was really a lot of guesswork and use of Jegs online catalog...I guess I got lucky on that aspect....a few things need some attention, but the basics are good...

Thanks for the encouragement.

Alan

Looks great

I'm jealous of the engine. You have the 6-speed LSD equipped tranny with it?

I just got solidworks and can't wait to start playing around with it, waiting on the kimini book. I'm planning on a B18 in mine.