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evo's V6 Vq30de Nissan Middy +442 build http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=4082 |
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Author: | SteyrTMP [ July 12, 2008, 7:48 am ] |
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Uh oh. Before you go much farther with the front section you have shown there, decide if you are going to try to make your own front suspension, or if you are going to buy it from Jack McCornack. I'd really suggest the latter, unless you have major suspension experience, like maybe FSAE... If you are going to buy it from Jack, then you may want to rebuild that, and angle the side tubes (LA and LB, I believe). I didn't do that, and mounting the front suspension was a real pain in the ass. http://www.kineticvehicles.com/ControlArms.html There's his page on the suspension and there are pictures of his suspension on my car there. Towards the bottom you can see where I had to use two-piece brackets for the rod-ends, whereas if you mounted LA, LB, FU1 and FU1, you would be able to use normal brackets and save considerable time. Other areas you might want to consider, if using the original "book" frame, or the McSorley frames (much more accurate than the book--my frame's a few millimeters short due to discrepencies in the book), are the engine bay and, of course, the rear end from the back bulkhead on back. I'd wait on making the engine bay tubing until you have the donor engine available. I made mine way too wide, figuring mine'd be wider than the book considerably, since it's a bigger engine... and that costed a lot of time and effort to get it to work. On the other hand, if you stick with the book engine bay, you may end up with your engine sitting higher than mine. And then, of course, there's the transmission tunnel, but that's usually the last part to complete, or at least, it was for me. I still haven't finished the tunnel--I want to make a second driveshaft loop towards the front in case of losing the driveshaft. |
Author: | dhempy [ July 12, 2008, 10:32 am ] |
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FWIW, I like the two-part brackets, and I don't think they're all that much trouble. Doing it again, I'd probably rotate the LA and LB tubes to face the control arm, but it's really not a big deal if you don't. There's some discussion of there here: http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=36005 |
Author: | evo626 [ July 12, 2008, 4:08 pm ] |
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My plan is to finish the basic frame IE up to were Mcsorey stops helpping me and not finish the remost section as I plan on doing something similar to Dave's car. I was planning on using the two part brackets as they don't seem like it would be overly difficult to install. I won't start making parts for the miata parts to fit unit I buy the miata. Basicly I'm going to copy Dave's car and work slowly so if he has any unforeseen problems I wont copy those. lol evo |
Author: | dhempy [ July 12, 2008, 7:24 pm ] |
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evo626 wrote: Basicly I'm going to copy Dave's car and work slowly so if he has any unforeseen problems I wont copy those. lol Oh, lordy...I sure hope you're talking about some other Dave...for BOTH our sakes! Quote: I was planning on using the two part brackets as they don't seem like it would be overly difficult to install. I won't start making parts for the miata parts to fit unit I buy the miata.
evo I'm not going to tell you to slow down on your build, but I will encourage you to fast-track getting your donor in hand. For one, they don't carry them at Wal-Mart, so you could go for months without finding a good donor. More importantly, there are just so many roadblocks when you don't have the real live parts in hand. Kurt covers this several times in Kimini. For example, I just realized this morning I've got a conflict between my e-brake cables at the calipers and some planned future chassis tube from the bottom corner of the rear bulkhead up to the upper shock mount. So, keep learning and building, but start hitting the streets to find your donor. Touch base with your local SCCA club...that's where I found my Miata. Here's a few possibles... http://tinyurl.com/653ace ($2900 1997) http://tinyurl.com/6b28qt ($1200 1992, $2600 1990) Several folks have relayed their wisdom in buying a little better donor in favor of a little cheaper/brokener donor. Chet in particular has some stories to tell. The good news is you can get just about any Miata for free after you sell off the parts...whether you paid $500 or $3000...so you might as well get one that you can drive back to the sacrificial alter under its own power. -dave |
Author: | evo626 [ July 12, 2008, 8:50 pm ] |
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Baby steps. I'm looking for a good donor as we speak. My inlaws know an owner of a junk and have him on the prowl for one. Shouldn't be too long to find one. evo |
Author: | SteyrTMP [ July 13, 2008, 1:32 am ] |
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I saw a few on craigslist... if I see any around here, I'll let you know. |
Author: | dhempy [ August 2, 2008, 11:48 pm ] |
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I like your clamps, evo. I assume they snug things up nicely? What size are they? -dave |
Author: | JSullivan [ August 3, 2008, 5:27 am ] |
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The calmps are a great idea. |
Author: | evo626 [ August 3, 2008, 9:09 am ] |
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The conduit clamps are 1". Cheap and easier than using a hole saw in the table.lol Keeps everything tight to the table. evo |
Author: | dhempy [ August 15, 2008, 12:27 am ] |
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evo626 wrote:
No shortage of ground clearance there! -dave |
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