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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: December 11, 2008, 1:26 pm 
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Mid-Engined Maniac

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Gforcefd wrote:
So is this going to generally look like a traditional 7, but with the engine behind the seats? If so how is that going to effect the weight balance of the vehicle, and having most of the weight on the back half of the car?

I wanted to do this with my donor car, but I can imagine the rear compartment would be slightly larger to accomidate everything.

Logan

The driver's compartment moves forward which keeps the wheelbase near normal Locost values but make the back end longer, becoming a styling challange.

Without highjacking this thread, check out the diary in my Midlana link for pictures.

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PostPosted: December 24, 2008, 8:20 pm 
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Location: Denver,CO
The start of the rack mounting.
Ok I drilled out the holes. Aluminum is like butta to drill 8) . Anywho in the pics you can see the mounting plate. The longer 2 1/2 x 1 tubes haven't been cut to size and nothing is welded in place or finalized. I'll add more to brace it all once I get closer to a final position.

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evo

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PostPosted: December 27, 2008, 2:13 pm 
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Location: Denver,CO
I trimmed the rack mount down so it looks nicer in the pics. I came up with an idea to mate the Nissan universal joint from the steering shaft to the standard 3/4 tube. I'm going to cut the input shaft from the Nissan power rack and weld a collar around it and weld that to my 3/4 shaft. I'm going to buy a shaft with the splines already on it to mount to a universal joint on the rack. I'll probably end up running at least two bearing supports on the shaft.

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evo

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PostPosted: December 29, 2008, 12:15 pm 
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Location: Denver,CO
I've been thinking about body work lately. I mocked up part of the rear end and estimate the wheelbase will be an amazing 120inchs long. Nearly 2 feet more than the standard locost. With that said the macpherson struts make the rear end wider as well. So looking at modern car design I found a solution that might work.

I will model the rear end off of a Ferrari Enzo, with the cockpit open, bonded with a Hulme F1/Carparo T1 styled front end. It would look something like this. Please bear with the 5 minute photoshop.
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evo

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PostPosted: January 3, 2009, 6:31 pm 
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Location: Denver,CO
After some work on the rear frame I figure I'll be able to cut it down to a wheel base of 105-110". I've been giving some thought to items I want that would be showcase parts, something to set it apart from normal cars even more. I came up with 3 things the car should have.

A: Paddle shifters. I found a universal trans computer called suprastick v4 which will allow me to program the trans shift points. An added plus is I can make paddle shifters and if I want I can turn the system off for normal operation!

B: RMP activated exhaust cutout. I've always wanted one and I happen to have an RPM module. I'll activate it around 4500rpms for that added kick!

C. Active airfoil brake. I was watching a video of the Veyron going around the top gear test track and noticed the airfoil. I figure I can make a very simple version which is acctivated by the brake lights and uses a linar electric actuator. Its a very simply system which should yield in better braking. Mine would only move the rear spoiler a small amount though so I dont have to worry about the rear end snaking about.


evo

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PostPosted: January 4, 2009, 8:22 pm 
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Joined: March 7, 2006, 6:15 pm
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Location: Northridge, CA
I don't know how this one went sneaking under the radar for so long in the builders log section, but I'm moving it to the non traditional build logs.

Carry on, you're doing good 8) .

Moti

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PostPosted: January 4, 2009, 10:55 pm 
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Blackbird wrote:
I don't know how this one went sneaking under the radar for so long in the builders log section, but I'm moving it to the non traditional build logs.

Carry on, you're doing good 8) .

Moti

Lol. Well it started of traditional and then went to being a traditional with a vq30de and then it went straight to middy. Thanks for the move!

evo

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PostPosted: January 10, 2009, 9:05 pm 
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Well a few new updates. I got the mock ups made for my Kinetic style front suspension done. Ordering 1x1 14g tube for the lower part and swedged steel tube for the upper link. Also mapped out a plan for the steering shaft.

I've started a bit of work on the rear subframe. SInce I cut alot of the sheet metal off of it the strut supports need to be boxed in with lots of gussets. I'll have lots of triangulation once they are completed. I'm going to take some measurements from my Mom's maxima to see how much of the frame I can cut and then I'll weld it all back together again. I'll have to build a new "rear" for the frame since I cut that all of the old car. Until then picture time!

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evo

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PostPosted: January 10, 2009, 10:41 pm 
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Joined: July 8, 2008, 11:05 am
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Location: Just South of Charlotte, NC on Lake Wylie
Evo, your car is coming along very nicely, I cant wait to see the finished product. what is the distance between your front suspension pickups? I am at about the same point in my build and I want to make sure I have them set wide enough.

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PostPosted: January 15, 2009, 11:31 pm 
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I'll measure the distance the next time I"m out in the shop. As for updates I finally replaced the pvc lower arms with steel units. I'm sure this will improve its road worthiness. I also works a little on boxing the rear subframe. Its coming along. I also got my new book "How to build your own supercar" by Brian Thompson. Looks of pictures and tons of good ideas, well worth picking up.

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evo

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PostPosted: January 16, 2009, 12:05 am 
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Blackbird wrote:
I don't know how this one went sneaking under the radar for so long in the builders log section, but I'm moving it to the non traditional build logs.

Carry on, you're doing good 8) .

Moti

Because he switched it up on us. It was a miata based build until page 3. :wink:

Nice build, keep up the good work!


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PostPosted: January 17, 2009, 9:07 pm 
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Location: Denver,CO
I went outside to try mouting the passenger side seat and dicovered that I no longer want to use the big luxo seats any more. I'm going to order a pair of fix backed racing seats which means I will need to tear out my current center tunnel and build one that is of equal size on both sides. Lucky me.

evo

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PostPosted: January 18, 2009, 12:01 am 
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Location: Subs of Detroit, MI
I hope that tunnel was only tack welded...

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PostPosted: January 18, 2009, 11:28 am 
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blue devil wrote:
I hope that tunnel was only tack welded...

It was all tack welded. Took all of 20 minutes to take it apart. Im still debating about seats. THe fix seats are the right size and according to reviews the ebay ones are decent. Im not sure about the vinyl recliners.
evo

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PostPosted: January 18, 2009, 12:09 pm 
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I'm a big fan of tack welds. :wink:

-dave " :oops: " hempy

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