LocostUSA.com

Hey right on. Looks kinda familiar I like your "locost" steering wheel. The fab work looks good great. What is your projected wheelbase, I know you were shooting for the 95 range, but with the seat taking up a tad more space it may have grown. You will notice that the pedals are offset to the centre of the car when they are installed. I sat in a Porsche GT3 RSR recently and noted they were more to the centre than my car. I will put some grip tape/wingwalk compount on the verticle frame rail to the immediate left of the clutch pedal to act as a rest when not using the clutch. Do you have plans to extend your build table to rig up/build the rear end when the time comes? Just curious.

Keep up the good work.

Andrew

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build log http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2142

haha you have no idea how inspiring your work is. Every time i check your thread (like everyday) it makes me want to build.

Yea the steering wheel is quite the work of art. Id say its one of my best.

I was aiming for 95 but it will end up a bit more. It will see over 90% street so while it would be nice, im not overly concerned. The little extra room behind the seat is for the gas tank and just storage. Im waiting for my Diff to come in for some final measurements and ill draw it in Solid Works. Once i get it ill mock the rear up with wood and ill have a final number. My current plan is for the diff to bolt up via a large aluminum 2 sided housing. I like the idea of being able to pull the shafts out and pull the motor with the differential and inboard brake setup as one unit. If it works out to be too expensive ill go for route 2, but im going to give it my best.

Ive been waiting on the diff then im submitting my CAD to Motive to see if he can mill the aluminum side plates for a reasonable cost between labor and materials.

As for the pedals, i planned mine to be just a bit more centered then yours. I tend to wear skate shoes, boots, and other wide shoes a bit so i need a bit more space. Its not everyday i drive with my skinny pumas.

As for the table, yes i plan to extend it for sure. Because its been like 20* for the last 2 months i like the extra bit of moving room. Once i get to the rear (thinkin a few weeks) ill build the section. My bro wants to build a sub box so im going to split the board with him lol... gotta stick to the budget

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2007 R1 Powered Mid Engine Street & Track Car
Build Log: viewtopic.php?t=4970

Well the weather got nice, 40* here is nice right now so i cleaned out the entire garage. Man what a different it makes.

So i have been measuring for my roll hoops, fabricating a gas pedal, and also a brake pedal. I got some thin steel from work so i decided instead of buying them, i would make my own pedals. I have most of one done. I just need to cut the base to height, add bearings and a housing, and add a cable attachment point... or points. It looks really heavy but it doesnt weight a thing. I just boxed in thin sheet. I plan to drill the sides of it. I also decided to make them adjustable. It looks like its heavy but it really weights nothing at all. I plan to stop by a skate shop and get some of their cutoffs from gripping boards and use that for traction on the steel after paint. As for the roll hoops they will clear my head by 3.5in. I decided to be a bit on the safe side i guess.

Sorry for the crappy cell phone pictures, ill get better later

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2007 R1 Powered Mid Engine Street & Track Car
Build Log: viewtopic.php?t=4970

So today was an interesting day. My buddy works at a small dealership called Auto Europe. Its a licensed Lotus dealer and they have a new Lotus 211, multiple Exige's, Elises, super 7's, and all. I sat in each one and wow i was in love with the Lotus/Exige. Not going to lie, when i sat in the Super 7 (i know this is a mortal sin here) i really wasnt impressed. The windshield blocked half my view and it had the long swooping fenders which just arnt my style. So anyways i got quite a few ideas after looking and sitting in the Lotus 211 and Exige... tomorrow is supposed to be 45-50* so i plan to get a good deal more of the frame done. Its the first time its been over 40* in damn near 2 months

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2007 R1 Powered Mid Engine Street & Track Car
Build Log: viewtopic.php?t=4970

Well it was nice so i finally have some pictures of me building. Mostly did some welding to get the frame done. This weekend ill be starting on mounting the engine up and fabbing up the rear section of the frame.

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2007 R1 Powered Mid Engine Street & Track Car
Build Log: viewtopic.php?t=4970

So I'm in a bit of a crappy situation. I have a 90-93 viscous LSD, a 2006+ miata and RX-8 Torsen LSD, and a set of 94-95.5 stub shafts. Problem? I have all the diffs except the one I want!!! I just want a clutch or torsen 94-05 miata or 87-92(I think) RX7 limited slip. Anyone wanna trade lol?

If anyone has an opened 94-05 diff that could get some measurements would be amazing! I need them to finish my frame. I need the width of the shoulders the bearings sit on, the overall width of the diff itself, and the distance from the ring gear face to one of the sides. I need to see how far off center the sprocket will be(chain driven diff)... So that I can line my motor up to it.

Anyone wanna help? I can make a picture to better describe what I need. Measurements from calipers would be best if possible.

But seriously if someone needs a LSD differential ill be selling both of them, or ill make a trade.

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2007 R1 Powered Mid Engine Street & Track Car
Build Log: viewtopic.php?t=4970

Price matters; these are Locosts, after all. I was looking into those (and others) when designing our Miata-based front suspension parts, but I'm not sure how they'd handle vertical loads. Those particular items are used (exclusively, as far as I can find) on McPherson strut cars where they're not expected to hold the car up.

It's something to think about...and maybe even something to discuss. Rather than hijack your build log, I think I'll start a new thread...
[edit: here's the new thread: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=6186 ]

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Locost builder and adventurer, and founder (but no longer owner) of Kinetic Vehicles

So i have decided to take a new route on the rear drive / suspension. I have decided to go away from the 94+ miata or 87-91 RX-7 parts. I know its probably overkill, but im going to stick with the 8in 30 spline RX-8 torsion LSD that i have sitting in my garage. This will get my project moving quicker and save money in the end. I plan to run RX-7 TII or TT rear spindles with matching CV shafts. Both those models had the 30spline shafts that will match my diff... im tired of searching everywhere to find nothing i can afford, or just no parts in general. The setup will weight a little more, but i want to get this thing rolling!

So this weekend ill be mocking up the rear frame if i can find some dimensions on the 91+ (think thats the year) RX7 spindles. Mainly just need the height between the pickups, their offset from each other, and the distance from the face of the hub to one of the pickups. Anyone????

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2007 R1 Powered Mid Engine Street & Track Car
Build Log: viewtopic.php?t=4970

so here is a 1994 RX-7 spindle. Im thinkin to run the a-arms like shown in my ghetto MS paint job, then cut off the excess tabs that normally would adjust the toe in/out as it would be controlled by the bottom a-arm. This RX-7 setup will allow me to run 5-lug rears to match my wheels and also match my Torsen limited slip.... finally its all coming together. All i have to do is get my front wheel adapters that i designed machined and fitted on to make the miata fronts 4x113.4

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2007 R1 Powered Mid Engine Street & Track Car
Build Log: viewtopic.php?t=4970

That may not be such a good idea, it seems like any thrust loads from acceleration or torque loads from braking may put too much torque between those two attachment points. What is the distance between the bottom two heim joints? For reference, my heim joints for the bottom of my spindles are going to be 12 inches apart.

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+442E, SR20det, Thunderbird/Markviii IRS with clutch lsd, R1 suspension all around, Mustang II 2" drop spindles, Woodward steering rack

Miata rear uprights are no better, something like 4".

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Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

i havent bought them yet, auction is still on ebay pending. Worst case if they are too close i will run a single one at both the top and bottom and run the toe in/out off the side bracket like stock application.

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2007 R1 Powered Mid Engine Street & Track Car
Build Log: viewtopic.php?t=4970

Well no good updates other then I'm sitting in the ER waiting to get stitches in my finger. Angle grinders, cutting blades, and fingers don't mix

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2007 R1 Powered Mid Engine Street & Track Car
Build Log: viewtopic.php?t=4970

well despite my injury, im still able to use the computer so i just won a passenger side rear upright off a 1994 RX7 for $14.99, a drivers side 1995 rear upright off a 1995 RX7 for $14.99, and a 94 RX7 CV shaft (still need one more) for $24.99. Not bad prices in my opinion

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2007 R1 Powered Mid Engine Street & Track Car
Build Log: viewtopic.php?t=4970

No blade guard or a side handle on the grinder is asking for trouble.

Moti

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Moti

My R1 powered Locost build log

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