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One can drive a cheap, 12 point socket on that almost fits, then use that to remove the old lugs. I've had to use this method before with rounded lugs and smooth locking lugs with no key.

You didn't use a 12 point to remove the lugs, did you?

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

The lugs are external wrenching tuner lugs. I broke the tuner lug tool due to hoop stress, ie it exploded outwards. I also let PB blaster soak in. I really think the drill is my last option here, but thanks for the tip.

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If it has tits or tires it will cost you money.

there's these things too

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=96296

wish i could have tried that.

Drilling was time consuming, but it worked.

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If it has tits or tires it will cost you money.

You guys are media deprived, and I is sorry but it has been hot as [PooPoo] AND i've been working my ass off. I actually had to wring out my clothes today.

But... here is a taste

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TQ7zHA_RMkg

-Brad

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If it has tits or tires it will cost you money.

if you look closely you can see whats left of a ford focus around the fridge.



This was not cost effective. $42 and change for the metal (over 1k lbs!!!!)

truck was about 50, gas was 6.50, $20 in sawzall blades, plus a ton of work.

But.... well lets say i kept the digits.
-Brad

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If it has tits or tires it will cost you money.

I call a local yard to pick it up left overs for free. I pack the carcass with anything I've been meaning to get rid of, such as old brakes and engine/transmission cores I've replaced for other folks (they always seem to leave the old parts ).

It gets hauled away on a tilting flat bed truck with a winch to drag it onboard.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Ok, here is how to make your ac/ps delete the B-R-A-D way.

Parts need: an old, but working focus tension pulley, mazda 929 belt tensioner, < 1 foot piece of 1" X 1" angle iron, various fasteners

Step 1, go to you local u-pull it and find a 90's mazda 929 with the v6





They apparently like to blow timing belts some someone will have removed alot of stuff to allow you to see the part with no effort. I saw at least 4, three had lost a timing belt and one was missing an engine



Get some engine degreaser that makes Al Gore cry. That belt didn't go for no reason.




Get your focus pulley taken off.




All cleaned up




Mount using 929 hardware with extra washer so the full range of adjustment is available.



Mock up with angle iron to use PS bracket. Realize that you nifty adjustable 929 tensioner will not work. Have beer, relax. Pulley can mount straight to angle iron with 929 nut and washer. Hey, it was 5 bucks at the pick and pull... and it will work, get over it.

BTW Al Gore is now BALLING because you didn't even use the bracket that got cleaned





Align the pulley carefully in all dimensions so the damn thing doesn't squeak. I suggest measuring your holes from the edge of the angle iron so its at least perpendicular to the belt path. Use a center punch before you drill. I used body fasteners to mount the angle to the PS bracket and a TORX from one of the seat belts for the pulley

Clean edges, paint, mount, DONE. Get a beer.

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If it has tits or tires it will cost you money.

Good Lord that engine is filthy... and it take a Lot of "ewww" to get me to say that.

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Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

The engine is in.... kinda





There is a severe alignment issue in terms of both front to rear and up and down. The shifter also hits the trans mount, but this problem may go away when i fix the alignment. I believe the trans needs to be raised and moved to the rear a touch.




blower is on too



Good thing I decided against the turbo.... It just would not have fit without some SERIOUS modification.

Well, I am tired, the garage is a mess, and a whole lot was done. I'll work on the solution for the engine mount issue as I continue work on the car. Wont be much in the coming weeks though. I have a trip to the tail of the dragon in 7 days that I need to get the miata ready for and I'll be there for a week. I'll tinker this week though and be ready to jump back in with renewed motovation after the Smokey mountains provide inspiration

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If it has tits or tires it will cost you money.

It was far worse than my donor, and it was BAD

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If it has tits or tires it will cost you money.

Well, after a long absence I got myself back in the garage today. Main goal was to measure and fit the engine so the mounts can be modified. The transmission was easy, just used some one inch square tube to space up the inch needed. the motor mount is a little more tricky, but will moved to the front of the car about 1.25 inches




As you can see the motor was removed so the mount can be fixed. I plan on cutting the vertical support out, fashioning something similar an inch or so to the front of the car, and welding plate to the whole back side to box it in on the side nearest the motor. Will be very strong. Going to try and do that this week sometime but over the weekend at the latest.

-Brad

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If it has tits or tires it will cost you money.

So today I finally got the new mount welded in. I will provide measurements/directions later when it is finalized.

Video time!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nzkWAqfOYO4

-Brad

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If it has tits or tires it will cost you money.

Soooo... Been awhile since the last update. Progress is slower than i'd like but alot of stuff has been holding me up. I still get work on it done though so its all good.

I got the front wheels mounted. big mental step here.
I had previously built one of the front hubs so it was kind of on. I decided to not redrill everything to 4X100 for a couple of reasons. First, it would have been alot of machine time since the rear has to have the rotors done as well. Second, parts are expensive and in the case of the front hubs rare as [PooPoo] stateside. Third, not even sure I could do the fronts due to possible interference issues. and finally, adapters are relatively cheap.

I did have to replace one bearing as outlined in an earlier post. I got the dust covers from autozone but they were a little small so they were modified with channel locks and a vise.

Also, since the hubs did not come with a way to lock the nut for bearing preload, I used some castle nuts from lowes installed upside down with the nut they came with and a cotter pin.

I also had the pleasure of doing the hub in the video twice.... forgot to attach the brake rotor. I was very pissed at myself but it was not as bad as I thought.

Also got the rack painted.

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If it has tits or tires it will cost you money.

My goal for the weekend was to get it rolling chassis.

Not as productive today as I hopped....

It started innocent enough. Go to the LSU shop where the arbor press is and make rear spindles, bearings, and hubs one part. Well, they have alot of construction going on so there was no light. Then, the tolerances on the spindles are kinda tight so the 2 ton arbor press was a no go. the hydrolic one was out of order....crap.

So, I go to harbor freight to get the 6 ton hydro press. Hell its only 70 bucks and i can use it for lots of stuff. Nope, sold out. 12 ton was 129. So I was like screw it, I WANT rear suspension. Buy that crap and go home.

Assembled press, pressed parts, disassembled press, shower, return press*, watch the refs loose the LSU game for us, and I'm home.

Work continues tomorrow....

*I had a bad experience using a shop to press FWD bearings. I do it my self now whatever it takes... even if its a bit sleazy.

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If it has tits or tires it will cost you money.