LocostUSA.com

You'll give him a big head you know!

I like the exposed frame theme Pook, pretty cool but have you considered how to fit it up later when its actually 'glass?

Glass? na, I'm stickin with the styrofoam that way my trike can be used as a floatation device in case of an emergency
Thanks Hempy!!
PooK

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dpook317@att.net

This will help you but it wont be exact. The 06 and 08 harnesses are very similar with small changes
http://turbomeena.blogspot.com/2009_05_01_archive.html

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2007 R1 Powered Mid Engine Street & Track Car
Build Log: viewtopic.php?t=4970

Pook, with the blue foam what kind of resin are you using? I take it your doing the mold-less treatment? How easy is this foam to cut and shape?

evo

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My vq30 middy build http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=4082

Very easy to cut, Very easy to shape, Very cheap,....Pain in the ars to glue and glass.
I use 5 min epoxy to glue it because everything else Ive tried either eats it or wont dry.
I use epoxy resin also. Takes longer to cure but sometimes that works out better for me.
PooK

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dpook317@att.net

Ok, here is what the pink...er PURPLE things were
The sway runs through the chassis and can only slide out so I used billet steering wheel quick releases to attach the sway bar arms so I can disconnect them and slide or change the bar out.
PooK

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dpook317@att.net

Very interesting idea. What are the specs on the sway bar steel?

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2007 R1 Powered Mid Engine Street & Track Car
Build Log: viewtopic.php?t=4970

Good question? It's a section of an old sway bar cut to length. Its solid, and if it proves to be to much I'll try a length of dom .250 wall, or dom .120, The little hexes are available separate.
PooK

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dpook317@att.net

Any progress lately? Or is it finished? Final Pics?

Nope not finished, I have the floor pan in now and the tanks and batt mounted, but I'm still fighting myself on the body work, I started re-designing the upper section to lay on top of the frame instead of inside....but I'm not sure I like it either! ....what do you think so far? better? worse? should stick with the day job?
also I have been working on the father-in-laws truggy...
PooK



TRUGGY

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dpook317@att.net

I like the foam sections inside the exposed bars.

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mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

I definitely like the 2nd version of body panels, if you're taking a poll.

BEAUTIFUL JOB.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I love it! Whatcha gluing the styrafoam together with?

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He is a wise man who does not grieve for the things which he has not, but rejoices for those which he has.

5 min epoxy is about the only thing I've found that works and wont eat the foam.
Someone told me about a foam safe CA glue used by model airplane builders but I haven't tried it yet.
PooK

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dpook317@att.net

Looks good either way if you ask me! I'm curious, how much work and time does that kind of foam molding actually take? Although from an aerodynamic standpoint, the flush design in the circled area would generate less turbulence. Then again an open At-om type car is a nightmare for aero anyways. Sorry I tend to obsess about aero so don't mind me. Question, are the square side members (arrow) going to stay open, or are you going to cap them off? You could have them feed the air intake to generate a high pressure ram-air effect, although you'd have to put some kind of filter in there because situated behind the wheel it's going to accumulate all kinds of water and road gunk. If you're going to do a ram air scoop, a better place would be to situate it inside or above the roll hoop, depending on how much of that space is taken up by your head/helmet. Lastly I don't think you'll need so much kick out curvature on the intake sides, just adds extra drag and turbulence.

Good work,
Ken