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sbcrx007
PostPosted: September 24, 2009, 11:26 am 
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Agreed. Auto does make it nice at the drag strip.. That's a lot of wear and tear ripping thru the gears in a manual box.

This car will see mixed duty.. Its being built as a street car, but with track duty in mind. I'd love to get it down to Nelsons ledges or Mid-Ohio when its done..

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sbcrx007
PostPosted: September 24, 2009, 11:37 pm 
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Good news, just put down on a deposit for a T56, will be picking it up 9/27. :D
More measuring will then ensue... And continue the hunt for my LS1 or L33.. :twisted:

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cheapracer
PostPosted: September 26, 2009, 6:08 am 
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Yeah looks heaps better in that recent rendition.

I really like autos and I have manual'ise the valvebody shaft myself in previous instances and operate them as a 3 speed manual with a slipping clutch so to speak or you could run a manual'ised 6 speeder :wink:
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'JustDreamin'
PostPosted: September 27, 2009, 9:42 pm 
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sbcrx007 wrote:
Good news, just put down on a deposit for a T56, will be picking it up 9/27. :D
More measuring will then ensue... And continue the hunt for my LS1 or L33.. :twisted:


It's an LSx version, not a LTx version (or any of the other permutations, like Ford or Viper), right?

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sbcrx007
PostPosted: September 30, 2009, 10:31 am 
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It was an LS version out of a camaro, yes. Unfortunately I got screwed on that deal, so I'm still looking.. Hopefully get my money back via paypal.

In the mean time, I finally got around to drawing some sidepipes! Opinions?


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'JustDreamin'
PostPosted: September 30, 2009, 4:28 pm 
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Good luck getting your cash back. Never a fun thing to try to do.

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'JustDreamin'
PostPosted: October 14, 2009, 11:00 am 
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Any progress to report, Jesse? Any luck with your deposit?

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sbcrx007
PostPosted: October 14, 2009, 11:38 am 
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JustDreamin - Yes, managed to get my deposit back (paypal wasn't going to, but I found someone there who was very nice and found some way of reversing the payment), so I'm just out for gasoline and tolls.. Things are kinda stalled in the mean time, I need the motor and transmission here so I can dimension them and get them into the model, make sure everything is kosher, re-triangulate the front end, design the mounts, etc.. I'm definitely on the hunt for the L33 motor and a decent T56 trans.

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nocones
PostPosted: October 14, 2009, 2:22 pm 
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I like your concept, and like the way your car is going to look.

I would suggest however you consider changing a few tubes to provide an SCCA legal cage within the design you currently have. If you continue the main hoop down to the seat bottom with some bends where it currently meets the side tubes, replace or Augment the W tubes beside the chassis with a single angled legal size tube, and then make the bulkhead at the base of your windshield bend into the node of the upper frame rail and continue down the diagonal of the forward W tube you would achieve a legal roll cage (you would need bolt in forward tubes, but that's not a big deal) while not changing much strength/weight increase.

It's not that there is anything wrong about what your planing to do, just that these changes would make the car SCCA and NASA legal for anything, Solo 1, Time trial, straight up W2W.

That's some good modeling your doing though. Keep up the good work.

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mr.peabody.d
PostPosted: October 16, 2009, 4:41 am 
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I finally got around to drawing some sidepipes! Opinions?
How far are the seats and pedals from the side pipes? Are you concerned with heat issues from the pipes? Aslso looking at where the motor is and if you run headers or stock exhausts it looks like it will be warm inside the (open) cockpit.
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sbcrx007
PostPosted: October 16, 2009, 2:12 pm 
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How far are the seats and pedals from the side pipes? Are you concerned with heat issues from the pipes? Aslso looking at where the motor is and if you run headers or stock exhausts it looks like it will be warm inside the (open) cockpit.


Eh, a few inches.. The pipes will be heat wrapped/header wrapped, and I'll probably fab up an aluminum heat shield for the outboard half of the muffler, make a laminated heat shield for the inboard side. It certainly is a problem, although I don't see any better way of getting the exhaust muffled and having it exit after the pass. compartment. No room in the tunnel, and that would be hot too. I'll be running corvette manifolds, they go straight down from the motor, so the pipes won't be that close to your feet. Anywhere I can use heat insulation, I will.

Jesse

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sbcrx007
PostPosted: October 16, 2009, 3:05 pm 
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I thought I posted it here, but I guess I forgot (oops!) Here's from my website, regarding the exhaust:

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Not a lot of options as far as exhaust systems go.. The bottom of the car is flat aluminum sheet, the transmission/driveshaft tunnel is narrow and filled by the trans and driveshaft, and given the car's construction, radiant heat from the exhaust near the passenger compartment could be a real hot problem. The only option left appears to be sidepipes, corvette or cobra style. Radiant heat is still a big problem, and will be addressed by heat shields and header wrap. Unfortunately, it will also be very easy to burn your leg entering or entering the car as well.. This will probably be addressed by a heat shield as well, but something more like perforated aluminum, or something else shiny and aesthetic. Thus, the exhaust will begin with LS1 exhaust manifolds or stainless steel shorty headers, neck down to 2.5" pipe, bend out and follow the leading edge of the passenger compartment, then bend again to follow the side of the passenger compartment, into a 4" round stainless steel Magnaflow perforated muffler, and finally exiting just before the rear tire, maybe with a turnout. Anyone with a better idea, please speak up!

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blue devil
PostPosted: October 18, 2009, 11:09 pm 
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why not run a y-pipe into a 3" exhaust down the center with the driveshaft just like it is on the F-bodies. I know it might take some frame modification but it shouldnt be too much to stuff a 3" DS and 3" muffler in there. The dont have to sit on top of each other. If your worried about heat, wrap the entire tube back with header wrap and line the tunnel with something. When i had my trans am the exhaust was right up next to the body. The only hot area was the passenger foot well because the catalitic converter actually protruded into the area. Once i got rid of that i had no heat issues, even in the 120* Arizona summers. I say make it look clean and run it down the center. Im not a huge fan of the cobra/viper side pipes as they look too retro for a new or custom car build.

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sbcrx007
PostPosted: October 19, 2009, 10:16 am 
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I've got the same system on my Rx7. It's nice, but I guess I was thinking that a true dual exhaust was the way to go. My engine is shipping out today, but I haven't found a transmission yet - so I don't know how well and how tight things are going to be in the tunnel yet (obviously the frame design can change to suit it, but I don't want a huge tunnel, as small as possible would be best, given how tight things are in the car). I was also planning on covering the bottom of the tunnel with an aluminum sheet. If there's enough extra room, I think its definitely a viable option. Maybe there would be room to run the 3" pipe right under the trans and driveshaft.

I'm not saying that the viper/vette style pipes are a better option, just that they fit easier.. As for the styling, I'm not sure, I kinda like it, kinda don't... it is a bit retro.

I still like my original exhaust, if anyone remembers - headers each connect right to a muffler, and the exhaust exits right behind the front wheels! :twisted:

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blue devil
PostPosted: October 20, 2009, 4:49 pm 
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i like the old idea but it will be loud. I had true duals on my TA when i sold it. I dumped the mufflers right at the rear axle. I also had electric cutouts up at the headers that made the car a bit more fun :cheers:

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