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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: July 20, 2013, 1:56 am 
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That is some GREAT header work! :cheers: Where the hell are you!!! :evil:

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PostPosted: July 25, 2013, 10:46 am 
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Location: Lexington, KY
I'm still around, but unfortunately not much progress on the car lately. Had a couple amazing trips this summer, went to Peru to do the 4 day Inca trail hike to Machu Puchu, unbelievable! Also, just got back from doing the Trans America trail from Oregon to Colorado on my dual sport motorcycle. The western US has some amazing scenery.

Anyway, back to car building.
ckouba wrote:
I'll bite... Besides magic, how do you get the TIG torch in those places to fully weld those pipes together (specifically in the collector portion?

Also, are you purging the interior of the tube? Is it stainless- I assume it is?

Thanks,
Chris


Well, my magic ran out along time ago so I guess I have to do something else. There is actually a "little" more space between the tubes than it looks in the pics. Also, its mild steel and I'll be using a mig so I'm hoping with a narrow nozzle and enough stick out I can get a decent weld. And there's only one way to know, think I'll go try it and see how it turns out. I plan to have it ceramic coated and hoping it will last.

Thanks for the header compliments, it was my first attempt and so far I'm pleased. That may change when I mess up the looks with a bunch of ugly welds though, there is always next time.

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PostPosted: July 25, 2013, 11:13 am 
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The trick on headers is to weld the inside of the tubes to form a seal before you put the collector on.

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PostPosted: November 27, 2013, 2:25 pm 
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Joined: August 10, 2009, 9:34 am
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Location: Lexington, KY
Its been awhile but made some progress lately and hoping to make a lot more this winter. I picked back up where I left off and finish welded the header. It turned out ok, but it seems butt welding around 16ga tubing is a bit tricky for me at times.
Attachment:
IMAG1464.jpg


Several have asked about welding between the tubes for the collector and that turned out well. I first welded the inside, as was mentioned, to ensure a leak free joint, and then welded the outside. The only thing I had to remember was what sequence to weld to make sure I could get around every joint. The welder only screwed that up once and had to cut apart a joint.
Attachment:
IMAG1468.jpg

Attachment:
IMAG1465.jpg


The next major goal is to get the engine running so I started working on the fuel lines. I was able to use the stock hard lines after modifying a few bends and mounted them through the tunnel using some nylon coated p-clamps.
Attachment:
IMAG1470.jpg

Attachment:
IMAG1469.jpg


Next up is to conquer this mess!
Attachment:
IMAG1471.jpg


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PostPosted: December 3, 2013, 6:38 pm 
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Location: Sarasota
Your getting close, keep up the good work. At what point are you going to paint the frame? I think I am going to do mine before I start pluming the brakes and messing with the engine wiring as that will all be zip tied in etc. Mind you I still need to finish welding the chassis before I can paint it.

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PostPosted: January 6, 2014, 2:20 pm 
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Location: Langdon,AB
Great build. That motor and tranny combo should make for one heck of a machine.

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PostPosted: January 17, 2014, 11:33 am 
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wrightcomputing wrote:
Your getting close, keep up the good work. At what point are you going to paint the frame? I think I am going to do mine before I start pluming the brakes and messing with the engine wiring as that will all be zip tied in etc. Mind you I still need to finish welding the chassis before I can paint it.


Before painting the frame, I plan to get everything fabbed up and test assembled. I don't want to have to grind off paint to weld on the frame more, (but I'm likely to forget some things and have to do it anyway, hopefully not much though). This includes wiring, body work, lights, interior, etc. This way, after paint, it will just be assembly time!

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PostPosted: January 17, 2014, 11:57 am 
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Location: Lexington, KY
Progress continues trying to get the engine running. I discovered a few connectors cut from the donor harness, most going to the rear body harness so I'm crossing my fingers I'm not missing something. Spent some quality time with the service manual tracing wiring and figuring out what I need to keep. Here's the current state of the mess...I mean progress.
Attachment:
IMAG1570.jpg


I am getting close to firing it up so I needed a battery. I got the popular Odyssey PC 680 battery, definitely lightweight and small. Fabbed up a spot for it along with a hold down clamp. It ended up somewhat close to the header but a heat shield should take care of any heat concerns. I wanted to maximize the passenger footwell area and use the existing cross tube.
Attachment:
IMAG1563.jpg


One of the remaining items for the fuel system was a bulkhead to pass the in-tank fuel pump wires and sender through. I used a -8 AN fitting I had and planned to fill the void with JB Weld. I went to pick some up and right next to it found a JB Weld product called "Water Weld" designed to repair water and fuels leaks. I used it and hopefully it will work, time will tell.
Attachment:
IMAG1552.jpg


The installed fuel system.
Attachment:
IMAG1555.jpg

Getting closer to starting the engine!


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PostPosted: January 18, 2014, 9:31 pm 
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Time to get this engine started.
I modified the stock battery cables to fit the through hole studs on the new battery. Then time for some courage, took a deep breath and hooked up the cables. No smoke, that's a good sign. Turned the key on and was excited to see the dash light up for the first time.
Attachment:
IMAG1571.jpg

So far, so good. Found the engine start button connector in the mess of wiring. Using a piece of weld wire, jumped the two wires.
click....click....click
I heard the starter solenoid engage but the starter was turning. Hmm, back to the service manual. I found I was missing a ground wire from the engine block to the frame. Fixed that and tried again.
crank....crank...
The engine twitched as the starter engaged! :)
I might actually get this thing running. I went through a mental checklist of everything to complete before adding fuel. First up, re-install the injectors. I planned to clean these but pulled one and applied some voltage and heard a decent clicking, good enough for me and put them back in. I might be cleaning these later when it doesn't run. I took out the fuel cell and flushed out all the drill shavings. Went down the fuel line and tightened all the fittings. Did the same for the return.
Bolted on the header.
Pulled the rag from the throttle body.
Checked the dipstick for oil.
Grabbed a gallon of gas and filled the tank.
Turned the key on.
Heard the fuel pump run for a couple seconds as it should.
Loosened the fuel fitting at the rail to bleed the air.
Cycled the key a few more times.
Proceeded to spray fuel all over the top of the engine, yep, fuel pump is working.
Opened the door and grabbed the fire extinguisher.
Here goes, took a breath, key on....jumped the starter button
crank....crank.....crank....crank......wapoww
It actually fired once!
crank.....crank....crank...vroom!!!! :D :D :D
Shut it off since I don't have the cooling system put together yet and grabbed the camera.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1IZcDZCrx8I&feature=youtu.be

Not too loud for an open header exhaust, at least when idling. Over 5 years of the engine sitting as a big lump, it finally comes to life!!!
Next up, the cooling system so I can run it more than a few seconds.


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PostPosted: January 18, 2014, 10:12 pm 
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Congrats. You just hit a major milestone.

I spent a lot of time pruning out the unnecessary wiring. I'm not sure it is worth the time. It doesn't weigh a lot. Next time I'll just bundle it and hide it.


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PostPosted: January 20, 2014, 4:16 pm 
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Wow! Must have been so nice to hear her run.

There really isn't anything like hearing an engine run after working on it for that long.


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PostPosted: January 27, 2014, 9:44 pm 
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Great job getting the engine running!!!!! I was looking at the radiator and wondering if you were planning to to add an expansion tank of some description or just connecting the radiator to the engine with the 2 pipes?

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PostPosted: January 28, 2014, 8:57 am 
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Thanks for the comment guys, it sure was nice hearing it run. You couldn't see me but I was dancing behind the camera.

Wright, I wasn't planning to add an expansion tank, should I? I was just copying the stock setup with the upper and lower radiator hoses to the engine, and an overflow tank or catch can, off the top of radiator. I have a heater so I was also adding the feed and return hoses for the heater core. Here is a pic of the stock setup. What's the advantage of an expansion tank, better cooling capacity?
Attachment:
stock coolant setup.jpg


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PostPosted: January 31, 2014, 8:07 am 
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I don't know if an expansion tank is better or not which is why I asked. I had planned on doing it exactly the same way as you have, I was just wondering if an expansion tank was a good idea. I guess without it you just need less coolant in the radiator (1-2" gap) so the top of the radiator acts as the expansion tank.

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PostPosted: January 31, 2014, 12:27 pm 
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JL1 wrote:
One of the remaining items for the fuel system was a bulkhead to pass the in-tank fuel pump wires and sender through. I used a -8 AN fitting I had and planned to fill the void with JB Weld. I went to pick some up and right next to it found a JB Weld product called "Water Weld" designed to repair water and fuels leaks. I used it and hopefully it will work, time will tell.
Attachment:
IMAG1552.jpg



I take it that JB Weld is a 2 part epoxy product, is it actually fuel prove?
Locally we get a Prattley 2 part epoxy and I've tried to use it on a model airplane fuel tank.
It didn't stand up to the fuel, but that is a mix of methanol, nitro-methane and castor oil.


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