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Sounds like a good day for a test drive!

-dave "Happy Roller Day!" hempy

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...nowadays people are so intellectually lazy and lethargic that they can't build ANYTHING with their hands. They'll spend hours watching whiny people marooned on an island, but won't spend a second adding anything to the world. -weconway
Visit my [Locost 7 build log]

Yeah, I can't wait for the engine to come alive but not looking forward digging into the wiring. It's a necessary evil that I just need to sit down and hash through. At your build pace, you'll have your engine running first. That way you can tell me how it's done!


Thanks, I may even have the suspension brackets more than tacked welded on I'll take it around the block if you come over and push it! Heck, better yet, I'll trailer it to the nearest hilltop and go soap box car style.

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S2000 powered locost; build log here

I fiddled with the windshield roll hoop long enough and decided to go ahead and tack it on. Looking at it now, it may be tilted a little farther back than I like, but I'll give it some time, it might grow on me. Right now it's laying back ~45deg.




I noticed I didn't post about the heater I installed awhile back. I got it to go ahead and reserve a spot for it before all the real estate is taken up. Its the universal one from here:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-991102-1. I plan to drive this thing as much as possible and having some heat on my hands and feet can make a big difference in the comfort level. I'm not exactly sure how I am going to get fresh air to the heater intake, I could use the engine compartment air but that doesn't sound like a good idea. Maybe I'll make some vents at the bottom of the windhsield, or pull from the foot well area, need to think about that one.

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S2000 powered locost; build log here

Yo, JL1-
My standard disclaimer applies: "I ain't no engineer!"

However, that front hoop/windshield looks to be leaning back a little too much for structural integrity in a roll-over. I'd be concerned about it's folding in on the occupants if that were to happen. I'd also suggest that there be tubes from the rear hoop near the corners to the front hoop near the corners. (Outboard, instead of or in addition to the one in the center.)

Not tryin' to be harsh or abrasive, just lookin' at the picture and expressing my thoughts about safety. Think on it, OK? Pleeze?


JD Kemp

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

Thanks for the comments JD. No offense taken. I post hoping for comments and concerns that I don't think of. I'm like you and still thinking the front hoop is leaning too far back. I'll plan to up right it more, say about 35deg instead of the current 45deg. About the top, front to back cross tube between hoops, I put it in the middle in an effort to make it easy to get in and out of the car. If there are two tubes on the outside corners, I imagine it will be a yoga move to get in or out of the car. Maybe not, I'll have to mock it up to make sure. Maybe the best compromise is an x brace that goes from the front left corner to the rear right corner. I've seen others do this and maybe that's best.

I keep thinking about the traditional 7 with no front hoop and just an aluminum channel supported windshield. Are there concerns about this style folding down and contacting the occupants? Or is it short enough and far enough forward to not be a concern. I could possibly see my front hoop collapsing down onto someone in it's current configuration but would it deflect far enough to be a concern. At some point the hood or top of the engine will contact the ground and be supported at the other end by the main rear hoop. A lot of ifs and speculations. Maybe I'll just upright the front hoop some more and shorten it a bit.

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S2000 powered locost; build log here

I also think it needs to be a little more vertical but you could add a brace on either side. Add an additional bar each side from half way up the front hoop going down to the side rail.

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2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
2013 & 2014 DSP Florida State Autocross Champion

Scrap Metal Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14558

This sounds like a good idea. Think I'll mock that up as well and see how that works. Might also be a convenient place to mount the side mirrors.

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S2000 powered locost; build log here

I started working on the header next. I did some research and it appears the stock header is fairly efficient and aftermarket ones don't see much hp increase. Knowing this, I pretty much copied the stock design for tube sizes and runner lengths. I also decided to stick with the stock 4-2-1 design instead of 4-1. The 4-2-1 is supposedly better for midrange torque and the 4-1 better for higher hp at the top end. I'm grossly simplifying this and there are tons of variables that make for a good performing header. The tubes sizes I used are 1.75in, 2.125in, and 2.5in exhaust, all in 16ga mild steel. I ordered several u-bends from Summit and cut up the stock header to reuse the flange.


I mocked up the bends and routing with some 1/8in steel rod. I tried to find something similar to the tube size but couldn't find anything I liked. I made the primary runners 12in long.

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S2000 powered locost; build log here

Here are some pics of how I made the collectors. I thought about ordering some but decided I could make my own. This style may not be the best flowing but I don't think it will limit the flow very much.



Here are the four primary runners. I just have them tacked for now and will take them back apart to fully weld after I have them all mocked up.

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S2000 powered locost; build log here

I'm a late comer to your build. The shape is very interesting and pleasing. I'll also be very interested to see what you do with the bodywork when it comes to that.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Nice work on the header fabrication. I like the collector fab method.

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The B-3 build log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=13941 unfortunately, all the pictures were lost in the massive server crash

The beginnings of the Jag Special,
https://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19012
Again, all pictures were lost.

I'll bite... Besides magic, how do you get the TIG torch in those places to fully weld those pipes together (specifically in the collector portion?

Also, are you purging the interior of the tube? Is it stainless- I assume it is?

Thanks,
Chris

You may have already caught this, but based on these pics you might end up needing to reverse your calipers to move the bleed screws to the top.

Nice looking build so far.

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.. in the world

looking GREAT!!! Cant wait to see her on the roads in town!!
PooK

How do you get a torch into the narrow spaces between the pipes?

Chris