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PostPosted: February 27, 2010, 8:22 pm 
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Joined: November 15, 2008, 11:26 am
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Engine harnesses can get completely drenched and be fine, just protect the ECU and relays under the scuttle. Think driving through a pothole filled with salt water after a snowstorm back east. Bring the wires into the scuttle from the bottom so you have a drip loop.


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PostPosted: March 5, 2010, 3:30 pm 
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Location: Lexington, KY
I got some more tubes added to the frame. A total of 12 more diagonal braces tacked in. I find this part of the build quite enjoyable, you can step back and see the progress as you go. A few times I even got the tube cut right the first try.
Here's a few more shots of engine. I ended up moving it back about 2 more inches than shown in the pics.

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I need to lay out the cross tubes under the seats so I ordered some of the universal seat sliders from Summit Racing for about $30. I figured if I hard mounted the seat I would never get it right and I may eventually let someone else drive this thing.

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PostPosted: March 5, 2010, 4:38 pm 
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The newest honda 2.0 engine, the K20Z3, sold in the 2007 and later Civic SI, is very interesting, does anyone working on a S2000 drivetrain know of an adapter which will connect to a RWD honda transmission? This was the origonal At-om Ar-i-el motor, and is available as a JDM engine in 220 HP, the K20A Type-R.


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PostPosted: March 6, 2010, 1:43 am 
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Ask at www.K20a.org Dan.


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PostPosted: March 15, 2010, 8:50 pm 
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Location: Lexington, KY
Got my seat sliders from Summit. I ended up getting these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1153/. It took some work to get them mounted to my Corbeau Clubman seats, nothing a little cutting and welding couldn't fix. The sliders were shorter and narrower than the mounting points on the seat. I ended up welding some tabs to the front cross bar of the seat and drilled some holes into the rear cross bar for the sliders. I think it will be strong enough. The passenger seat will be fixed mounted to the frame.

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Having the sliders mounted I could lay out the framework under the seats. It took awhile to figure out to mount the seats and still be able to remove them later if needed. I decided on drilling through on side of the 1in floor tube for the slider stud and on the other tube wall drilled a clearance hole for the nut and socket. The floor will be drilled with a matching clearance hole and the seats bolted through the bottom.
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PostPosted: March 15, 2010, 9:42 pm 
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Having the seats mounted, I could layout the frame work for the tranny tunnel, umm, I mean transmission tunnel. Looks like there will be just enough space for the drive shaft and the fuel lines. I spent a lot of time staring at how best to put the tubes so that when the time comes for panels, it wouldn't be too difficult. Around the shifter I went with 1.25in round tube so that my arm has something nice to hit against. The plan is to have a formed u-shaped panel over the driveshaft that can be removed for access, hopefully I can use the frame as my forming tool.

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In the never ending battle that "everything is connected to everything else," to layout the driver side tubes, I needed to find out the location of my feet, which requires me to figure out the pedal positions. So, with that, I put in the donor pedals to get an idea. I think I can get away with using the stock throttle and clutch pedals, and possibly the brake if I can figure out how to mount two master cylinders to it. It was interesting to find on the donor clutch pedal right behind the foot pad, it has two solid 3/4in bar about 1in long welded to it, guess for vibration reduction? They just might fall off unless there is reason for them to stay. I also will have to unbend the clutch pedal slightly to move it over, allowing the brake to slide over to the left and therefore allowing space for the steering column and throttle pedal.

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PostPosted: May 3, 2010, 12:45 pm 
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Progress continues. I added a few more tubes around the front of the trannsmission tunnel and footwell area. I couldn't figure out how I wanted to panel around the footwell so the tubes could not be placed. More thinkin required, later.
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For a change of pace, I layed out the stock steering column. I modified the stock mount by welding on some tabs. I needed a steering wheel to place the column so I ordered an adapter for the S2000 steering column spline to the common 6 bolt pattern of the after market wheels. Well, guess what, the adapter I got has a different spline size than my steering column, go figger. Maybe I'll try to order another one later. I took a guess and tacked in the column, just to get an idea. I'll see if I'm get lucky on the placement.
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Good thing there is plenty of stuff to work on. I switched gears and started on the front suspension. Early on I decided to use the bolt on hubs from a '96 dodge caravan. For that year, there are two wheel bolt patterns, 114.5 x 5 and 100 x 5. I finally got around to ordering them and thanks to a non-descriptive ebay ad, I got the 100 when I needed the 114.5 to match the stock S2000 rims (I really despise ordering unusable parts). Oh well, another set was ordered, with the right bolt pattern this time.

Went to bolt the rim to the hub and guess what, the pilot diameter of the rim is about 1/16in smaller that the boss on the hub. I should of checked this earlier as all the the dimensions of the hub are in the timken hub catalog posted on this site. So, I was thinking, with rims that bolt on with tapered lug nuts, the hub boss should not be needed to align the rim concentric to the hub. Therefore, I could just grind out the pilot diameter of the rim to fit. The center cap may not fit anymore but are there any reasons I shouldn't do this? I will also have to grind out the rotor to fit over the hub, again, any cause for concern.

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PostPosted: May 3, 2010, 1:25 pm 
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Decided to start fabbing the front control arms. I am using 1"OD x .12W DOM for both the top and bottom arms. The top arm is not symmetric as I wanted slightly more caster. The uprights give about 4 deg but from researching opinions, it seems 7 deg is about right. One downside to my controls arm is the non-adjustable caster. The lower arms are symmetric. The steep angle of the top arm made for a lot of grinder time. Once the grit settled, it turned out fairly well.

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For the inboard pivots, I am using oil lite bronze bushings (mcmaster PN 6338K423). I thought this would be easier and cheaper than rod ends but we'll see about that, especially without a lathe. I bought some 1"OD x .156"W that I drilled out to 47/64". I then reamed this to .75" and pressed in the bushings. For the spacers/crush tubes, I got some 1/2"OD x .12W DOM which is the right size for a 3/8" bolt. At this point I just had to see the upright connected to the frame so I threw it on. If you notice, I don't have all the bushings installed or any proper hardware.

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PostPosted: May 4, 2010, 8:04 pm 
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Location: Orlando, FL
JL1 wrote:
Went to bolt the rim to the hub and guess what, the pilot diameter of the rim is about 1/16in smaller that the boss on the hub. I should of checked this earlier as all the the dimensions of the hub are in the timken hub catalog posted on this site. So, I was thinking, with rims that bolt on with tapered lug nuts, the hub boss should not be needed to align the rim concentric to the hub. Therefore, I could just grind out the pilot diameter of the rim to fit. The center cap may not fit anymore but are there any reasons I shouldn't do this? I will also have to grind out the rotor to fit over the hub, again, any cause for concern.

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Press out the studs and have the hub turned down to match the wheel. Make sure you leave the proper bore for the brake rotor. I wouldn't be comfortable messing with the wheel.


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PostPosted: May 5, 2010, 10:49 am 
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Are you sure that the rotor does not fit? Its common for wheels center not to fit(usually too big so you can buy the concentric rings for the center to make them fit) but i would not be comfortable with a rotor that has been grinded out. This is something that needs to be done correctly on a mill or lathe. If not, the rotational mass of the brake rotor will not be balanced and will lead to comfort issues and ultimately wear issues (pads, rotors, and hub bearings). I would contact a few machinists in your area to get quotes or contact some people on the board (Motive is a great source if he hasnt move his to Utah yet) to help you get this done correctly. It will be much cheaper to do it like this now rather then buy new hubs and rotors when some get messed up.

Other then that your build looks great thus far. I like the attention to detail with the jigs and all. :cheers:

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PostPosted: May 5, 2010, 1:03 pm 
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Joined: January 21, 2008, 1:53 pm
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Location: Gabriola, B.C.
Hello JL1,
a query, maybe it's just my eyes, (img 1108 & 1109) but doesn't the lower tube limit the front lower A-arm movement?
regards, Wilf
alfa/7


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PostPosted: May 6, 2010, 10:53 am 
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Location: Lexington, KY
Bring 'em over and we'll turn them down on the lathe.

-dave "my lathe, your liability" hempy

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PostPosted: May 6, 2010, 11:36 am 
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Location: Lexington, KY
Thanks for the hub/wheel insight. You guys are awesome and keep me from doing something questionable. I knew the best way is to have the hub turned down but I was hoping to get away with a shortcut, but looks like this shortcut isn't worth it.

Thanks for the offer Dave, I'll give ya shout.

cfv23844 wrote:
Hello JL1,
a query, maybe it's just my eyes, (img 1108 & 1109) but doesn't the lower tube limit the front lower A-arm movement?
regards, Wilf
alfa/7

Your right, it does limit it but I am not planning on much droop travel anyway, only 1in. The way I figger, the springs will go loose at about an inch with a 1,200lb car with 300 lb/in springs, so no need for any more.

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PostPosted: May 14, 2010, 10:03 pm 
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Looking sweet man !


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PostPosted: June 3, 2010, 1:59 pm 
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Continuing work on the front suspension. I fully welded the A's of the control arms and then welded on the pivot tubes. I did this so that after the A arms move from being welded, I can align the two pivot tubes, weld them, and then ream for the bushings. Reaming all 8 pivot bores by hand took some time but and interesting setups. All my drill's chucks max out at .5in and the reamer was .75in.
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After a few I wised up and used my drill press as a dead center to hold the reamer vertical with the control arm held in the drill press vise. Worked a lot better.

I also had to fab all the crush tubes for the bushings which took some time and fine tweaking. After all this, I got the driver side attached with all the bushings in place and thankfully it moves!

I planned out my rocker arm setup which meant picking out coilovers. After some digging around, I settled on the popular QA1 Proma Star single adjustable shocks with 10.125-14in length. With not quite 4in of shock travel, my shock to wheel ratio won't be exactly 1:1 but .93:1, close enough for me. I added more detail to my front suspension sketch and come up with the bellcrank dimensions. I had to tweak it several times including a few because it wanted to occupy the same space as the steering shaft.

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Having a CNC router comes in handy for rocker arm mockups. You tbink 1/4in mdf will hold up?

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