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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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 Post subject: Re: sprite into locost
PostPosted: September 27, 2010, 12:32 pm 
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Joined: January 31, 2008, 5:34 pm
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Location: SW Wes Consin
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Thanks. It is interesting to find this stuff thru a locost site. I find such stuff a little rare or hard to find on the British part supplier sites. The A arm shown was worse than mine as far as the fulcrum pin sawing thru the A arm. I am still trying to envision how a screw thread can make a good bearing surface. My upright bushings were trashed as well. So Now I need to know how to get the old bushings out. Your site says it is "possible" mine (British) says to send to an "engineering firm". Moss sells the bushings and a stepped reamer but, I still need to get the old ones out. Any advice??

Oh, to get mine off the car I used a sawzall and I plan on coil overs and tubular A arms.
cheers
Tim


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 Post subject: Re: sprite into locost
PostPosted: September 27, 2010, 4:08 pm 
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Joined: December 29, 2007, 10:41 pm
Posts: 1004
Location: Vancouver, BC
Tim,
Westfield uses the Spriget king pin on their XI's and they run a bolt through the lower eye of the king pin. How they stop if from wearing, i dont know. But i'm sure if you kept an eye on the wear, it would work just fine for the "Seven" application.

If you're kingpins are worn to the point of needing rebuild, check with a local MG shop to see if they have them on exchange. We keep them on the shelf ready to go, but being up in the "great white north" shipping to and from might be a bit of a hassle.


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 Post subject: Re: sprite into locost
PostPosted: September 28, 2010, 7:39 am 
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It sounds as though the bushings are oversize to account for wear, which would make a round hole oval. The reamer increases the size of the hole and makes it round again, to match the new bushings.

As for removing the old, I'd be suprised if it did not require a press (hydraulic, arbor, bench vise, etc). If you post pics, I can be more specific.

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 Post subject: Re: sprite into locost
PostPosted: September 28, 2010, 12:21 pm 
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Joined: January 31, 2008, 5:34 pm
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Location: SW Wes Consin
Because of the odd shape of the upright I'm having a tough time getting the upright into my arbor press. I will probably have to make a custom drift. I have thought about applying some heat but I don't know how that could affect the metallurgy of the upright. Drilling it out might work put holding on to such a weird shaped piece is a challenge.


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 Post subject: Re: sprite into locost
PostPosted: September 28, 2010, 1:08 pm 
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Joined: December 29, 2007, 10:41 pm
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Location: Vancouver, BC
Tim,
They do press out, though you'll probably need a hydraulic press. We made up two mandrels to press them out. The stepped reamer is to ream the new bushings and keep them concentric. One other option would be to very carefully try to cut through the bushing (obviously from the inside), then drive a screw driver down one side of the cut (between the bushing and hub spindle). This should curl the bushing inwards and will come free. You shouldnt need any heat to get them out.


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 Post subject: Re: sprite into locost
PostPosted: December 30, 2011, 6:33 pm 
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Joined: January 31, 2008, 5:34 pm
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Location: SW Wes Consin
This has to be some sort of record for dreaded side projects but I have had one and it is finally done just in time for a little winter time TIG welding. Consider the before and after. The thinking hasn't stopped, I will give a synopsis later.


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 Post subject: Re: sprite into locost
PostPosted: December 31, 2011, 12:05 pm 
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Joined: August 13, 2008, 10:36 am
Posts: 352
Location: Lynchburg, VA
You have a gorgeous house vroom. It would be nice to see the front too.


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 Post subject: Re: sprite into locost
PostPosted: December 31, 2011, 3:50 pm 
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Joined: January 31, 2008, 5:34 pm
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Location: SW Wes Consin
Thanks SWMBO likes it. It's circa 1854. I like my shop circa 2000.


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 Post subject: Re: sprite into locost
PostPosted: December 31, 2011, 4:01 pm 
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Joined: January 31, 2008, 5:34 pm
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Location: SW Wes Consin
Call me slow. After looking thru some Westfield XI build photos I now know why the tube reinforced foot box. I had intended to use floor mounted pedals but the LHD Westfield uses pendant type. Why ? The Sprite exhaust goes right through where the master cylinders would be if they were on the floor. DAH!


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 Post subject: Re: sprite into locost
PostPosted: January 1, 2012, 12:04 pm 
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Joined: December 19, 2011, 10:24 am
Posts: 24
Location: Charlotte, NC
Nice work on the house, looks like it turned out well.
The shop looks great too, good place to build a car.

Don


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 Post subject: Re: sprite into locost
PostPosted: January 2, 2012, 12:12 pm 
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Your house is very beautiful vroom, even more so when you live in the land of concrete as I do - mind you I don't have grass to mow and I don't miss that (last house in Oz was 5 acres!).


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 Post subject: Re: sprite into locost
PostPosted: January 3, 2012, 6:58 pm 
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Location: SW Wes Consin
Thanks. My last house had a 4' x 28' front yard with a 2000 sq ft shop down stairs and apartment up. This new one is definitely a step back.


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 Post subject: Re: sprite into locost
PostPosted: January 8, 2012, 2:18 pm 
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Location: SW Wes Consin
Back to answering some design questions. Some time ago I borrowed some pics of a Lotus 11 frame built, I believe, by CS3. I have been having trouble with the 7 frame being too narrow in the seat area. It looks in this pic as if the rear of the suspension arms are attached to the brake backing plate with a cantilever loading. The pic I have of the Westfield is quite different. The attachment is attachment is to a bracket on the axle.

Also the 11 frame seems to have a very short Panhard rod attached ahead of the axle in about mid frame. Structurally this would be a lot better than the typical 7 mounting but I would think it gives too much lateral movement in bump.

Comments or answers please.


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 Post subject: Re: sprite into locost
PostPosted: January 8, 2012, 4:33 pm 
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Location: meadview arizona
very nice round tubes, where are you going to mount the gas tank

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 Post subject: Re: sprite into locost
PostPosted: January 8, 2012, 4:55 pm 
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Joined: July 17, 2008, 9:11 am
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Location: West Chicago,IL
I don't see the full panhard bar in either photo. But to answer your question...... limit the bump and you limit the lateral movement. As Colin says, "Any suspension will work if you don't let it." Now where did I read that?

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