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sprite into locost http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=8564 |
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Author: | Lonnie-S [ October 24, 2016, 11:11 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: sprite into locost |
Do you still use the soot (carbon blacking) technique with the weed torch too, or do something else? How about posting some photos of your "scrap" parts? Have you been able to make anything for your build yet? Cheers, |
Author: | vroom [ October 24, 2016, 11:32 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: sprite into locost |
No, I use a black heavy Sharpy, which seems to work fine. Photos soon. |
Author: | GonzoRacer [ October 25, 2016, 7:30 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: sprite into locost |
vroom wrote: Then I happened on the ultimate solution, the Red Dragon Weed Burner. It is a giant 400,000 BTU propane torch that you plumb to a 20lb. propane tank. It takes just a few minutes to anneal even big parts. And propane is pretty cheap. Yo, Everybody! Big cookout/wienie roast/marshmallow roast/S'Mores bake-off event at Vroom's shop! Bring your own food, nomex underwear, and fire extinguishers... I think we need a video! JD |
Author: | vroom [ December 3, 2016, 1:02 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: sprite into locost |
I’m reading Mark Donahue’s book. He tells a tale of sending a McLaren Can-Am car to Germany for analysis during his work with Porsche on the 917. Apparently they opened up the monocoque to see if there were tubes in it. It is interesting and instructive that Porsche, McLaren and, as we now know Ferrari were all using totally different methods of structuring their chassis at a time when they were all fairly equally competitive. Porsche used tubular space frames (aluminum), McLaren used monocoque and Ferrari used a tube frame with bonded and riveted panels. It seems to me that Mauro’s reasoning, faster to build, easier to change and repair should have been the method of choice. Another curious example of conformation bias. |
Author: | mkejim [ December 4, 2016, 12:43 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: sprite into locost |
I am glad to see you reading but I want more pictures of compound formed aluminum from my imaginary friend in western Wis. I've always thought an imperfect bare aluminum body looks more beautiful than the best fiberglass |
Author: | vroom [ December 4, 2016, 1:07 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: sprite into locost |
A fair comment. I have, after recovery from falling from a tree and suffering thru an over eager update to Sierra on my system, I have been restructuring the front of my buck in solid MDF (for hammer forming). So, unless you would like to see a lot of boring sawing and sanding and cleaning up sawdust I might not be posting too much directly pertaining to the car. Sorry. |
Author: | Lonnie-S [ December 4, 2016, 3:02 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: sprite into locost |
How about posting a video of your new machine just working some metal? It would be really cool to see (and hear) it in operation. Cheers, |
Author: | vroom [ January 24, 2017, 6:30 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: sprite into locost |
Any body out there have an interest in the Mille Miglia? |
Author: | cs3tcr [ January 24, 2017, 7:29 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: sprite into locost |
vroom wrote: Any body out there have an interest in the Mille Miglia? Of course! |
Author: | vroom [ January 25, 2017, 8:00 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: sprite into locost |
I'm planning a trip to Italy this spring and was wondering if anybody might have some advice about attending. |
Author: | vroom [ June 12, 2017, 9:17 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: sprite into locost |
Haven't posted for a while. It turns out the MM is kind of difficult to spectate unless you stay in one of the overnight stop cities. I took the Freccia from Bologna up to Padova but the cars weren't due there until late and I had to be back by 3. But you might want to know about body building. Not that I know it all but I'm learning one panel at a time. As I said I have decided to hammer for the detail parts on the front fascia. The hammer form is solid MDF in 1/4" and 1/2" thickness. It was band sawed out using lofted patterns and glued with water proof wood glue. Then I filled the steps in with pattern maker's filler (like bondo) and sanded to smooth the surface. Finally I coated the whole thing with West System epoxy. I didn't lay on any cloth as I figured I would do that if the buck couldn't stand beating on it. |
Author: | vroom [ June 14, 2017, 10:41 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: sprite into locost |
The finished buck fascia. And the first couple of parts. It usually takes two or three attempts to get a reasonable part. All these parts need to be redone or tuned up. |
Author: | Lonnie-S [ June 14, 2017, 10:42 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: sprite into locost |
How's it going with your big machine? Nice work on the form thus far. Cheers, |
Author: | vroom [ June 15, 2017, 9:58 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: sprite into locost |
The operator needs some training. |
Author: | Lonnie-S [ June 16, 2017, 12:15 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: sprite into locost |
vroom wrote: The operator needs some training. Well, you know how you get to Carnigie Hall, right? Practice, practice, practice! You were just in the process of posting the photos of your pieces on your new form as I posted my remarks. I'm glad to see you're still at it. Have you been following the fellow out East doing the Kurtis body (viewtopic.php?f=23&t=18818)? He has an interesting arrangement with a metalshaping teacher out there. The fellows students do work on his car because it's available in his teaching facility. He works on it too, but only a day or two per week, apparently. Maybe you could work out something similar with your teacher fellow in Wisconsin? It's just a thought. It might get you some level of assistance developing your body. Cheers, |
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