LocostUSA.com

I have to agree with everything Jack said and I'd like to suggest going a bit further. I'm an Evo guy and I know the kind of violence that a 4G63 is more than willing to transmit to the rest of the car once it's pushing some decent power.

First I'd suggest including all the subframe and/or suspension pick-ups in your triangulated structure. Think carefully about where the loads from your driveline will be passed into the chassis through the suspension pick-up and sub frames and then make sure those areas are well supported.

Be sure to tie in the engine and transmission mounts from the unibody as solidly as possible; you removed almost all of the structure that used to support those areas of the chassis so adding back structure will be important. You may even want to look at providing some support across the front of what remains of the chassis to help keep the engine bay from deforming when the engine/driveline loads start to move everything around.

I would even recommend adding back the front engine mount and the cross member that goes under the engine bay from front to back; I once had my Evo tear the back ear/mount off the transmission case (housing) because it was spinning then hooked up traction and delivered a very expensive, part-breaking shock to the driveline. Even with all the OE mounts in good condition and fully in place .. but I was on very sticky rubber.

Very cool project

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.. in the world

Yes, I am a little worried about the violence of the 4g63 stroker.
It was already impressive when it was a 3000 pounds car.
I will look into reinforcing the subframe mounting points and the front subframe.
I am keeping the tires as narrow as possible so they act as fuses and spare the driveline.

I wanted to get your thinking on the water to air intercooler system I am planning to use:

It is pretty standard except that the water in the tank is cooled by expanding liquid CO2.
When the water temp raises you open the tank for a few seconds and the CO2 chills the water when it expand in the cooper coil.

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330hp hkt7 cosworth

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3873796/1

It wouldn't last long but if you did have the co2 spraying you could have it do something like spray on the radiator or on the tubing before or after the intercooler. It would give you that much more cooling.

I am now looking for some Koni inserts for the front.
I am looking to get a bottom mounted one with the shortest body possible.

I found some good ones:

Mazda RX7 86-92 320mm
Toyota MR2 spyder ???mm

Any more ideas?

I have no pictures of the buggy but I will post a Picture of my Seven.

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330hp hkt7 cosworth

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3873796/1

While it would work I doubt you can carry enough CO2 to do it for very long. And you'd need a pretty efficient CO2 to water cooler.

Just do like the truckers used to do when their motor was overheating on an uphill climb. Spray water on the radiator (in this case the intercooler) with the pump. The water should weigh less than a high pressure CO2 tank. Or get a bigger intercooler.

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"My junk is organized. At least is was when I put it wherever it is." -olrowdy
Completed building GSXR1000 CMC7, "Locouki"
Website: http://projekt.com/locouki/

i think you would get a better return for the weight by using a single pass trans cooler in front of the radiator to cool the water. .. water based charge coolers are pretty efficient overall within their limitations. as an example, http://www.freewebs.com/wrxic/airwater.htm

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"There are times when a broken tool is better than a sound one, or a twisted personality more useful than a whole one.
For instance, a whole beer bottle isn't half the weapon that half a beer bottle is ..." Randall Garrett

bought this windshield for $50.
It is from a 1961 Healey Sprite.


I am mounting it directly to the cage trough home made brackets.





With the 2 halves of the hood in place you can se by how much I had to widen the front of the body.

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330hp hkt7 cosworth

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3873796/1

id really like to see more pictures of your seven
wayne-o

Ok, I do not have that many pictures but I will start a thread in the Showcase area.

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330hp hkt7 cosworth

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3873796/1

I want to finish all the fiberglass work before it gets cold.
So I did the narrowing of the back and the widening of the hood.




Now the hood



Prep for the hood vent.


Cut and mocked.

Done for today.

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330hp hkt7 cosworth

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3873796/1

Was your hood vent once a jeep fender flare?

No but it's a great idea...

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330hp hkt7 cosworth

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3873796/1

I did some work on the hood.
First blend the vent in:

The vent is glue with epoxy, then I filled the gaps with bondo and glass on top for a crack free smooth surface.



I also started the suspension towers covers.
My wife was so nice and gave me an old Tuperware bowl.

I filled it with fiberglass and resin.

Let it dry and pulled the stuff out.

Then cut in two pieces.

first try fit.

Ok that is better.

Glue with epoxy.

Glassed in.

It is not looking awesome but it will work for now.

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330hp hkt7 cosworth

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3873796/1

Be careful with a CO2 tank. If you are using a regulator to reduce pressure before your tank, it will get most of the cooling. If you go direct to your tank and the outlet gets frosted shut, it will explode in fairly short order. It the tank has much volume of CO2 in it when it goes, there could be "issues"...

The tanks are also heavy. It needs to be mounted so that it doesn't come loose in an accident, so safe for something like 20g's.

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Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.

Does anybody know how those guys http://www.designengineering.com/catalog/cryo2-system-components solve those issues?

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330hp hkt7 cosworth

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3873796/1