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I was only able to get a number due to the advice I received from reading this forum - many thanks to those of you who have posted your Cal DMV experiences. I counted at least a half-dozen times where they tried to send me away and I was told "that's the CHP that does that (issue a SB100 number)", "you'll never drive that on the freeway", "we don't issue anything, we just collect money", bla bla. It was only through research on the actual process that I was able to politely work my way to a supervisor that knew what I was talking about. I took advice from someone and went through the start of the registration process last week (which took 2 hours) in preparation for getting teh SB100 number.
Now it's CHP, Brake and Light Inspection, SMOG, then back to DMV. Oh, wait, I'll need to finish the car first....

Thanks for the supporting comments guys.

The enthusiast typically knows more about an area than an official who must deal with that area and everything else. I had one say "the office policy changed last month". I laughed out loud and replied with a smile, "what about the State Code (quoting the section)? Did they change that too?"

People are difficult to read. We never really know what is going through their head, just a facial expression and tone. If meeting your objective requires me to be friendly to people who may not be, what is important? Why am I at the DMV in the first place? I'll achieve the goal and be on my way.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Exactly. I approached the DMV much like building the car - it's going to take a long time, it can't be rushed, there might be some wrong moves, but in the end it'll get done. Okay, so without clear-cut info on the situation I went in early Friday morning and here's what was learned:

The exemption number you're issued is good forever - it does not get recycled or recalled. This makes sense because the exemption number usually consists of the year and sequence number, so since the year is in it, it doesn't get "moved" to someone else in later years.

The exemption number is good until you finish your car, whether it takes a month or ten years.

Each year after receiving the exemption number you'll receive paperwork from the DMV asking you to select whether the car is operational or not. Here's where I went slightly wrong due to over-analyzing the situation. That is, I don't "have" a car yet - it doesn't exist, so since there isn't a car yet, I didn't send in the registration payment. As it turns out, my car existed the moment they gave me an exemption number - running or not, so that meant I'd gone a year without payment. This is where I got nervous, fearing that since registration had stopped it would somehow cancel the whole deal including the already-paid-for exemption number - no.

I had to pay a penalty for the skipped year, and also paid for this year. I'm thinking the car will be on the road this year, but at this stage the DMV doesn't care as long as I keep writing them checks for registration each year (the full fee, not just the "non-operational" fee) As long as the yearly fees are paid, the exemption number does not go away.

That said, it is possible to void your exemption number if you choose, which basically takes you back to square one, and it must be requested by you. Such a case might be if you're unable to finish the project (you know, your mistress hits the lottery and you run away with her and she buys you a Ferrari... but I digress.) In that case it doesn't make sense to keep paying $100+ each year for something that isn't going to happen. If the incomplete car gets sold, the new owner will have to start the process again from scratch.

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Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

Kurt--Just want to clear things up for us Cali guys, since this is the problem I ran into on my first DMV visit in early December. The fees you have to pay are ACTUAL registration costs, not "non-op" fees. I was hoping to pay the non-op fees on mine (something like $15), But had to pay the full registration fee ($147 in my case).

I was told that in order to declare the non-op status, the initial application process had to be competed (ie. CHP verification and smog). Either way, paying the registration yearly, until the car is finished, is cheap piece of mind...

Joe

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http://www.pbase.com/ninerjoe/lotus_19_build

Good point... I wasn't clear, it's not "just" the non-op fee, it's the entire registration amount... I'll edit my post for those who follow.

_________________
Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/