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 Post subject: Removing Rust from Frame
PostPosted: January 10, 2017, 11:52 am 
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Joined: August 2, 2009, 3:34 pm
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Location: Alberta
I'm sure this has been beat to death, but I'm getting close to the point were I'm going to paint my chassis. Its fairly rusty, and I'm wondering what the best way to remove the rust is? Due to the acute angles, as most of you are aware, its impossible to get in there with a angle grinder. Being the middle of winter, I'm not to keen on using a chemical that needs to be rinsed off as it will make a major mess in the garage. Not wanting to work that hard or take that long, I'm also not too eager to sand it by hand.

-Sand/media blasting seems to be my top option. Anyone that has paid to have this done, would you mind sharing how much it cost? If I get it blasted, is moving it from a warm shop, to -20C to transport it back to my shop going to cause rust issues if I don't seal it right away? I have a few items I'd like to change that require welding following blasting and wouldn't be sealing it for several days after blasting;

-Would electrolysis work/do a decent job? I think it would be fairly easy to jimmy rig a tub together that I'd be able to submerge the frame in, has anybody done this? Not sure what I'd do with the sludge afterwards, just trying to judge based off member feedback if this is a feasible option.

I suppose I could make some sort of tub and rinse the frame off by submerging in, just wondering what members have had success with.

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PostPosted: January 10, 2017, 12:22 pm 
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Joined: October 19, 2012, 9:25 pm
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I'm a big fan of spray on rust converters. I think one brand is tannic acid based and another is a phosphating solution.

Both work well.

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PostPosted: January 10, 2017, 3:08 pm 
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I would just hit as much as I could with the angle grinder/wire cup. Then use the other styles of wire wheels and rotary tools like the 1/4" bit type tools. Then hit anything that's left (shouldn't be much) with sandpaper and then anti rust paint. Wipe off rust dust by hand prior.

Transporting the frame in and out of warm humid areas and into cold dry areas is asking for more rust. If the shop paint/blasting so much as blows the blasted frame off with an air gun, it will also get blasted with water/humidity.


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PostPosted: January 11, 2017, 8:27 am 
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Joined: October 6, 2009, 9:29 am
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Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
The local business that sand blasted my frame also painted it with primer before taking it out of their shop. I don't remember the cost, but not very much, something in the $150 to $200 range total, maybe? Don't know if the sand blasting folks in your part of the world do the same primer painting, but it won't hurt to ask. Worst they can do is laugh at you and say "Hell no!" If you're married, you're probably used to that sort of thing... :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: January 11, 2017, 11:53 am 
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Joined: March 19, 2011, 10:22 am
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
Hey Josh

What works for me is POR-15 Metal Prep, is converts rust, turns the frame a chalky white, ready for primer.

I've used it in the winter, just used a spritzer spray bottle to apply metal prep and keep wet; then a weed sprayer of distilled water to rinse the frame off. Just threw a bunch of soaker pads on the floor to soak everything up, don't think I used more than 2 gallons of water.

Paint is still hanging on both 7's.

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