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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: March 14, 2017, 2:13 am 
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Joined: December 30, 2007, 1:21 am
Posts: 552
Location: North Van., BC
Nope, that was use the 20r and if you didn't need the carbs for the 4age, sell them to me cheap. :mrgreen:

Ron

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PostPosted: March 14, 2017, 3:28 am 
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Joined: March 6, 2017, 12:44 pm
Posts: 41
yep i was saying lec make a 20r intake for solex 40 carbs. but i can let you know Ron if thay become spare parts.


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PostPosted: March 14, 2017, 4:46 pm 
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Joined: May 25, 2006, 9:39 pm
Posts: 339
Your carb manifold looks like the one I used. It lifts the carbs up a bit which was good for my build otherwise the trumpets would have been right at the top frame rail.


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PostPosted: March 14, 2017, 5:15 pm 
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Joined: July 4, 2006, 5:40 pm
Posts: 1979
Location: Novato, CA
Suspension looks great. Good that you moved the pickups for 5 degrees of caster. A lot of people using MGB components don't seem to do this, I think because most Locosts use ball joints, which allow the A-arms to be mounted level and caster to be set by the relative positions of the upper and lower A-arms.

Looks like you've got the steering rack at the proper height, around 5" from the top of the lower frame tubes. Straight tie-rods at static ride height will eliminate bump steer with the MGB rack and spindles.

The stock MGB steering wheel is too big. It'll work, but moving your foot from the gas pedal to the brakes will be tricky. I replaced my stock 15-1/2" wheel with a 13" and it's perfect.

Your steering column and pedal box are mounted just about exactly where mine are. The left front corner of my pedal box cover barely clears the bonnet. I'm not sure what kind of seats you plan to use, but one thing I've noticed over the years with my traditional bench seat is that the steering wheel, which is exactly centered in the drivers compartment, feels 1/2"-1" offset to the left. I could've moved it 1/2" inboard, giving me all the clearance I needed for the pedal box, and it would've felt more centered.

Except for the injuries, I'm enjoying this build. Keep it up.


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PostPosted: March 14, 2017, 8:29 pm 
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Joined: April 23, 2016, 9:59 pm
Posts: 72
Location: Central Missouri
Welcome to the forum. I have a 20R in a +442e, and my oil pan sits 1.5" below the frame. I had to make a custom hood/nose cone/scuttle because of the height.

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PostPosted: March 15, 2017, 12:45 am 
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Joined: March 6, 2017, 12:44 pm
Posts: 41
yes dfdahl the intake looks very close. was looking at your build i had to see if the carbs fit under the hood. i like the amount of adjustment you get with front a arms. very nice build. i just took a look but am going back to it

Thanks nick when i got the frame it had no caster. After a week of looking at a mgb front end I was getting close to a plan. Then i found your build log it was grate. When you started with a arms then built the frame i new i should try and copy your angle. i liked how you added the life story of a grinder. a 13" wheel is what i was going to try i dont think smaller is street legal in bc. i have no plan for seats yet i need one to set steering wheel. i have a go-kart seat but it looks to short.

hi hilux i saw a video of you driving and took a look at your build log. I was hoping you mite have some advice your car looks fast in the video. how do you like 20r in a 442? i think yours was stock rebuilt 20r would you add more power?

I did get some done today. if i can remember where the 4age gaskets are it would go faster. at least bolts and tools wer organized for today that ment i found them and they were in a box or pan.

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got trans and some parts on 4age but had to stop tell i find intake gasket and frost plugs.

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had to replace distributor on the 20r it got in a fight with shock tower. lucky i had 2 spare the one on the left is newer and had a better coil. the one on the right had points and rust dose still spin a bit. newer one it is i removed valve cover to set timing. it looks good in side i want a clear valve cover. all the good parts are hiding how about a clear oil pan to.

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was playing with a carb adapter for a single side draft i can make it work if carb is at back or if i make a spacer to clear thermostat then carb could be in front but it would be sticking out of hood. Got clutch, trans, motor mounts,and header on with all the bolts tight, had to stop tell i find the alternator and water pump is bent so will need a new one.

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this site is grate thanks for all the comments and help finding builds to look at.


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PostPosted: March 15, 2017, 8:31 am 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 8:12 am
Posts: 1621
Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
Tim
I do not think it's a wise choice to run the 4AGE without the water by-pass connection. You need it for the system to function properly. I suggest that you add a fitting to each of the block off plates and just run a hose between the back of the head and water pump. Another option would be a bleed valve attached to the rear of the head to help in filling the system.
And while talking cooling system, add a 1/8" hole to the top edge of the thermostat. The 4AGE is well known for air-locks while filling the cooling system. Even with the correct pumping it typically take 2 or 3 tries to get all the air out of the system.
Dave W


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PostPosted: March 15, 2017, 8:21 pm 
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the block off plates came with it. was looking at some fittings i have. if want heat will need them open. a flush T at the back of head would let air out and be a good place to top it off.

I got a interesting call today free parts. an auto recycler is opening a new yard out of town and wants me to run the day to day at his yard in town. he wants me at yard 5 days a week when he is out of town this summer. there is about 2 days of work a week the rest of the week i can raid his parts and work on my cars well getting payed. thats right keys to a yard full of cars, parts, tools and he wants to pay me. also if i need a car for autocross he has some that i can run. last year when i had my car apart he did lend me a car for autocross. with a nice set of 18" race tires with 60% when i gave it back thay had cords showing. when i tried to pay him for tires he told me that he wold not sell tires that were below 75% and was glad i had fun.

i was going to spend this summer fishing and racing.


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PostPosted: March 16, 2017, 8:33 pm 
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Wanted to see how the 20r would fit in frame today. I had never tried it. Thinking a rolling frame would help with test fit the dif and rear tires wend back on. 20r went in with trans on. The header is a bit close to steering rod u joint it mite get hot. The oil pan is level with frame. Also found a carb spacer so test fit carb facing front and back.

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I like with carb facing front. mite lose some low end power with spacers but carb is in fresh cool air.


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PostPosted: March 16, 2017, 9:31 pm 
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We are Slotus!
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Joined: October 6, 2009, 9:29 am
Posts: 7610
Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
Uhhh... Tim.... About that picture with the forward facing Weber twin-choke carb... I think you may have just named your car...
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So, I wish you continued good luck and success... You and... Wall-E... :mrgreen:

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
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PostPosted: March 16, 2017, 11:03 pm 
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Joined: May 25, 2006, 9:39 pm
Posts: 339
I bet you can drop that motor a bit more. My 4age is about an inch below the frame rails and is no problem.


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PostPosted: March 16, 2017, 11:09 pm 
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Joined: May 25, 2006, 9:39 pm
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I also noticed that your floor pan was straight across at the front. I moved that front cross member back to make room for the transmission.


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PostPosted: March 16, 2017, 11:14 pm 
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Joined: December 24, 2007, 5:11 am
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Location: Seattle area
I knock over a 2X4 on edge, but just barely. I'm real close but have never dragged, even over some of the very serious speed bumps in the neighborhood. Not sure how much under the frame rails the pan i Probably close to 3".

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PostPosted: March 17, 2017, 2:20 am 
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Joined: March 6, 2017, 12:44 pm
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ha ha GonzoRacer that mite work. I can make the front a box. Or a shaker box so it looks like walle is under the hood. Then i can make the arms move and look like he is fixing things when engine at idle. I was trying to plan bending the hood with a smooth look. Then started thinking of something fast to make like a box. a funny box is grate.

my frame sits on a 4x4 without motor in. I the want oil pan safe. I well look at a dry sump oil pan it should be shorter.


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PostPosted: March 17, 2017, 8:09 pm 
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Joined: March 6, 2017, 12:44 pm
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I think if i move carb to back and remove spacer i can hide it under the hood. With carb the at front the hood would be a lot harder to make and then with velocity stacks on carb how long would it take to open the hood. I did not think about that tell i made a test hood.

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it is not my best work just a test hood made from 6 small sheets of 0.012" and cheep tape.


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