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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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 Post subject: Re: S10 powered locost
PostPosted: May 21, 2018, 9:00 am 
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Joined: March 20, 2018, 3:57 pm
Posts: 26
Thank you, I will be looking into those welders Lonnie.


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 Post subject: Re: S10 powered locost
PostPosted: May 21, 2018, 10:00 am 
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Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
Posts: 3529
Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
My pleasure.

I was on a super-tight budget when I started my project. I didn't have anything except a few basic woodworking and hand tools. I know what it's like to start out under constraints and need everything. However, your welder will be such a basic tool that you need to get the best one for your purpose(s) that you can.

There are some really expert welders on this site (not me, I hasten to add). Asking questions is a good way to get smarter fast.

Cheers,

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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 Post subject: Re: S10 powered locost
PostPosted: May 21, 2018, 12:09 pm 
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Joined: March 30, 2011, 7:18 am
Posts: 1395
Location: central Arkansas
While a professional welder has to learn to handle all sorts of materials, welding machines, positions, and so forth, we don't need that level of skill to build a Locost. You're mostly dealing with 16 gauge tubing and bits of 1/8" or 3/16" tube or flat stock.

MIG welding is definitely a manual skill, and most of us made our fair share of rat's nests, burn-throughs, cold welds, and general destruction before Mr. Hand got in sync with Mr. Brain. But after that, we're mostly welding the Same Old Stuff.

My machine is an inexpensive import, but it's well over 25 years old, so I have no idea where it would fall in the modern Cadillac-to-junk scale.


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 Post subject: Re: S10 powered locost
PostPosted: May 21, 2018, 2:59 pm 
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Joined: May 27, 2006, 9:46 pm
Posts: 1852
Location: BC, Canada. eh?
I used a cheap, Italian import Clarke MIG for most of my frame build. It worked fine and, after a lot of practice, I was able to crank out some welds I was proud to show off.

However, a cheap MIG can cause headaches. Mine used to constantly go off-track on the wire feed & stop feeding. This happened about every 5th weld or so, so I spent more time fixing it than welding with it. The guide wheels for the wire were simply bolted through about 24 gauge steel, not nearly rigid enough for the job. I also replaced 2 liners in it - they were cheaply made, and prone to frequent failure.

A couple of years ago, I decided to bite the bullet & purchase a good MIG. I got a 220V Miller with Autoset, and I love it to pieces!! You just set it to auto, dial the thickness of metal you're welding, and the welder takes care of the rest. I've easily welded everything from 1/2" steel down to 24 gauge (without burn-through!) with it. What's best is you just turn it on, and weld. No repairs, no fiddling, no adjusting.

It even has lots of accessories available, including a dedicated, plug-'n-play spool gun for aluminum & stainless (I bought one of those, too).

Wish I'd done it a long time ago. This thing will be with me for the rest of my life.

I'm all for doing things the "locost" way, but sometimes (particularly with more complex tools) it's best to just go ahead and get something good up front.

_________________
Scratch building, at continental-drift speed, a custom McSoreley-design framed, dual-Weber 45DCOE carburated, Zetec-engined, ridiculously fast money pit.

http://zetec7.webs.com/


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 Post subject: Re: S10 powered locost
PostPosted: June 5, 2018, 7:47 pm 
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Joined: March 20, 2018, 3:57 pm
Posts: 26
I found a mustang ecoboost engine for the right price. The build can start in earnest now.


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 Post subject: Re: S10 powered locost
PostPosted: June 18, 2018, 1:07 pm 
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Joined: March 20, 2018, 3:57 pm
Posts: 26
I would like to keep the 221 chassis however I would like to keep the heater and ac. Would it be possible to fit this in a 221 or should I upgrade to a 442? Any input would be appreciated.


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