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PostPosted: May 31, 2023, 12:25 pm 
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I'm planning to add a spare wheel at the back, and I was wondering why everybody has the same mount, that is the square U shape at the bottom of the car?
Why not use the Jeep style mount? It looks cleaner with that style mount.
Am I missing something?

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PostPosted: May 31, 2023, 10:47 pm 
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Or install a class1 trailer hitch and make a bracket that holds the spare and slides into the hitch. You can also take the spare off and install one of those lite carriers and carry a small cooler and folding chairs for a picnic. Russ

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PostPosted: June 1, 2023, 7:28 am 
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The tire rack hoop below also serves as a license plate holder and the assembly can be made removable later if you don't want to carry the spare. A 1/8x2 strip of steel can be attached to the hoop and bent to follow the shape of the front side of the spare with a bolt or wheel stud tack welded to the strip, with a locking wheel nut on the rear side to hold the wheel in place and prevent theft. 1/8 strip allows the tire to be as close to the boot skin as possible to reduce the gap from the tire to the body panel.

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PostPosted: June 1, 2023, 7:33 am 
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I built a carry-all that just clamps to the rear bottom tubes of the trunk. I have enough space beside the fuel tank that I could just use two small clamps to hold a "U" shaped structure under the frame. A smaller design would work for a spare tire, and it can be easily removed in less than 5 minutes. I can take a photo if interested.


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PostPosted: June 1, 2023, 10:08 am 
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I did use the Jeep spare mont. The only issue is that the rear aluminum body metal will warp if not very tight to the frame for the spare support.
Attachment:
May 2022 pic2.jpg

Attachment:
Spare tire mounted.jpg


I wanted the 3rd brake light. But I had to shorten its mount with the lower profile wheel/tire that the Jeep carries.


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PostPosted: June 1, 2023, 12:48 pm 
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Thanks everybody.
BostonWill, that is what I'm talking about.
So it is OK to do it, just I have to be careful about the skin.
I will have to add tubes, or flat bars behind it, to make the mount rigid, have a big surface to be against.
I may skip the third brake mount and I may do it as Lonnie, behind the wheel LED circle.
I'm wondering, if that whole rear round tube skeleton will hold that heavy wheel, while it is bouncing.
I will have to strengthen that area, specially at the middle. 15 gallon gas tank, plus a heavy 17"x 8" wheel.
It looks so clean like though.

Which seats are those, Volvo? They must be Volvo, I used to have a 760T back in the day.

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PostPosted: June 1, 2023, 1:59 pm 
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It is your car. Build it like you want. Personally, I didn't carry a spare. It think it looks "cleaner" without. I did have a removable luggage carrier that was used when travelling. The mounts were virtually invisible when off the car. The same removable concept could be used for a spareImage

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PostPosted: June 1, 2023, 3:13 pm 
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Here is what my frame looked like.
Attachment:
IMG_0568 (640x480).jpg

Attachment:
Lic plate mount.JPG


The 2nd phot is with the frame upside-down. You can see the plates to the left side of the vertical tube. I welded flat steel to the two vertical tubes. I welded nuts onto the back of the plates for the thru bolts. Add the strength of the skin and it will be plenty strong.

Here is a photo of when I was thinking about mounting the muffler at the back. You can see the frame better.
Attachment:
Rear muffler.JPG


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PostPosted: June 1, 2023, 5:32 pm 
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I'm not an engineer and this is my first adventure in building something. Since I have used 3/4" tubes at the rear end of the car, to me it seems to weak to carry the gas tank and this wheel.
That is why I ask, if it seems OK. just to be sure, I will add some more bracing.
I remember BostonWill, that you have showed me those pictures in the past. Most likely that is how I will deal with it as well.
You have built your rear end from 1" tubes? They look thicker to me.

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PostPosted: June 1, 2023, 6:27 pm 
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Chuck, that looks like a very useful feature to have. I may do that, if I will need it.
I will have a diffuser under there, maybe even the exhaust pipe.
Trying to do something like Lonnie.
Will see, when I get there, if I will have the space for something like that.

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PostPosted: June 1, 2023, 6:29 pm 
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BostonWill, how much space is there between the wheel and the body? What is the wheel width? Mine is 8".
I'm trying to figure out, which mount to buy.

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PostPosted: June 2, 2023, 5:07 pm 
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Here is a photo of the mount.
Attachment:
Spare mount depth.jpg



You will have to measure your backset to see if it is OK. The main tubes are 1" dia. It is all chrome moly tig welded for the structural joints. The rollbar is 3" chrome moly. All of the bends made with a shop tube bending system. I purchased the frame with a very large pile of new parts ($5k worth in receipts). The guy who built it was and ex-1/4 mile racer and was going to install a built Ford small block. So everything is overbuilt. Even has a newly built 8.8 rear with 4.10 posi and Moser axles! He did the rear suspension well on design. But everthing was wrong with the front suspension design. I did resuse all the new Mustang II pieces (uprights, brakes, R&P) but started over for the UCA & LCA design. Also, moved it all forward almost 3" to get the steering right.

My add-ons are mig welded. But they are not structural and small welds so as not to compromise the hardness of the tubes. Where I have remade the entire front suspension design, I just wire core weld tacked the mounts. I have to take everything apart yet and have those mounts TIG welded and then paint the frame before final reassembly.

I purchased the whole spare mount w/3rd light on craigslist for $70.


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PostPosted: June 2, 2023, 6:07 pm 
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Yes, you have a much stronger setup there.
I will hunt one down on CL myself. They are to far at the present.
Thanks for everything.

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PostPosted: August 17, 2023, 11:31 am 
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Thom, those are the wide clamshell fenders? How wide are they? Thanks

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PostPosted: August 17, 2023, 5:31 pm 
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Yes, if you are talking about the front, they are the wide clamshell fenders from Jack at Kinetic. Do not remember how wide they are. They do not quite cover my wheels/ tires- sticks out about 3/4 of an inch in front. My front track is very wide- 61", to go with the 59.5" rear track. LCAs are aftermarket Mustang II tubular arms with coilover shocks. Uppers are adjustable strut rods to a ball joint mount and uprights are stock Mustang II. My wheels are only 6" wide with no offset as I remember. Overall width (outside- tire to tire) in the front is right at 68".

Interesting thing is I purchased a unused pair from one of our fellows here. They had been in a garden shed for several years. When I finally started to mount them, I discovered the right fender covered my wheel but the left stuck out. Jack and I scratched our heads for awhile. I ordered anothe left fender (hoping it was wider) and guess what- it was the same as the old fender.

I then made a curvature template of CAD (cardboard)" of the rt fender and when I placed it against the left fenders, it was found the somehow the rt fender had flattened on its curve from inside to outside at the top (highest point). I have yet to get back to it, but I am going to try and flatten out the left fender using a flat table, some straps and the sun and a heat gun to see if I can flatten out the new fender.

If that does not work, I will order another new rt fender to match the smaller fender on the left. 3/4" of protrusion is acceptable in my book!
Attachment:
Fender Mock up.jpg


You can see how far the tire sticks out.

Attachment:
Lft fender.jpg


This measurement is from the body, right where the mount flange is at the widest point of the fender to the outside of the left (new) fender from Jack.

As far as the distance from my frame to the skin, the two flat bars I added are meant to be against the back of the skin. However, I will need to add some rubber mount strips between the bars and the skin to limit distortion because of a small gap. I like the idea of one more thing between a car hitting me in the rear and my frame & fuel tank. Figured the tire & rim can collapse or crush a bit. But would only really help at low-speed hits. Like I experienced when some gal hit me from behind at a stop light when her foot slipped off the clutch and smacked my friend's Fiat 500L. It's been 8 years and my neck still gives me problems!


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