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How did you construct your welding table/frame jig?
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=11920		 Page 2 of 3
Author:  carguy123 [ October 6, 2011, 10:41 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: How did you construct your welding table/frame jig?
How about a trip to Northern Tool.

Build your table with casters and slightly shorter than you want it.

Attach trailer jacks with a pad at the bottom instead of one with a wheel to each leg. They aren't very expensive.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _0_P-Price?

You can use the jacks to raise the table to whatever height you want and/or level it.

When you want to move the table lower the jacks until the caster touch and then move it wherever you want.
Author:  ngpmike [ October 7, 2011, 12:56 am ]
Post subject:  Re: How did you construct your welding table/frame jig?
Thanks for the quick reply, guys. Both of these ideas appear to be good options. I guess my main concern was whether re-leveling after a move is a real problem, or just a little OCD rearing it's ugly head. Just want to make sure I'm not tilting at windmills.
Author:  Acerguy [ October 7, 2011, 8:17 am ]
Post subject:  Re: How did you construct your welding table/frame jig?
Actually, a quick Craigslist search on "screw jacks" yielded some interesting ideas. There are, of course, house jacks which chould make interesting (and beefy!) legs for a build table. Perhaps mount them on a locking caster. But another ad that caught my attention was a place unloading a large amount of scaffolding. A couple of scaffold panels:

Image

and a screw jack for each corner (coarse all-thread that fits into the pipe):

Image

Again, with a locking caster on the bottom. Some cutting and welding and it could be built into somthing interesting. Hmmmm....
Author:  carguy123 [ October 7, 2011, 9:36 am ]
Post subject:  Re: How did you construct your welding table/frame jig?
I'm not sure the locking caster will give a sturdy table. The table can still walk on you and wiggle and then there's the issue of mounting the casters to the jack pads.

I did that on my rolling table top saw and cutting table and when I try to cut large things the table moves as it swivels around the casters.

And good casters are more expensive than the boat jacks. Of course to do it right on my table requires both casters and the jacks.

The boat jacks have handles for raising and lowering the jacks which makes adjustments faster and easier than adjusting the jack pads of the scaffolding.
Author:  fritz [ October 7, 2011, 10:37 am ]
Post subject:  Re: How did you construct your welding table/frame jig?
I am in the build table- build mode right now as well
The concern about the MDF is it's exposure to dampness/warpage (Prob here in NY)

I just found out about "Advantech". Comes 4x8x.750 Prob is the surface (plane) is a bit coarse. I think a lite belt sanding will help for plane, and then the normal leveling process
I am told that Advantech can be stored out side.. no problems

check it out at
http://www.advantechperforms.com/advantech-advantage/

anxious to hear from experienced builders
Author:  Acerguy [ October 7, 2011, 10:54 am ]
Post subject:  Re: How did you construct your welding table/frame jig?
carguy123 wrote:
I'm not sure the locking caster will give a sturdy table. The table can still walk on you and wiggle and then there's the issue of mounting the casters to the jack pads.

I did that on my rolling table top saw and cutting table and when I try to cut large things the table moves as it swivels around the casters.

And good casters are more expensive than the boat jacks. Of course to do it right on my table requires both casters and the jacks.

The boat jacks have handles for raising and lowering the jacks which makes adjustments faster and easier than adjusting the jack pads of the scaffolding.


Yeah, no doubt you're right. Still, if the price were right it might be an option. I already have a pretty sturdy metal 4x5 metal welding table that I am planning to use as a build table with the addition of a reinforced MDF top. Doing the boat jacks at each corner as you say would probably be the slick way to go. Sounds like a trip to HF for me... :D
Author:  fritz [ October 8, 2011, 8:17 am ]
Post subject:  Re: How did you construct your welding table/frame jig?
fritz wrote:
I am in the build table- build mode right now as well
The concern about the MDF is it's exposure to dampness/warpage (Prob here in NY)

I just found out about "Advantech". Comes 4x8x.750 Prob is the surface (plane) is a bit coarse. I think a lite belt sanding will help for plane, and then the normal leveling process
I am told that Advantech can be stored out side.. no problems

check it out at
http://www.advantechperforms.com/advantech-advantage/

anxious to hear from experienced builders



Any opinion on using Advantech
Author:  Makako [ December 31, 2011, 5:28 am ]
Post subject:  Re: How did you construct your welding table/frame jig?
i just built mine simple. cost me about 90 bux. have pix up on my fb. or my car's fb. https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100001560907144

it's working fine so far.
Author:  toyotus [ January 6, 2012, 2:46 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: How did you construct your welding table/frame jig?
^your car's facebook page.....classic!^
Author:  FieroReinke [ January 11, 2012, 7:43 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: How did you construct your welding table/frame jig?
When I build mine in the spring, I am going to design it so that when I am done I can run the circular saw down the middle of it length wise and turn the two left halves into a long work bench.
Author:  Makako [ January 12, 2012, 4:22 am ]
Post subject:  Re: How did you construct your welding table/frame jig?
toyotus wrote:
^your car's facebook page.....classic!^


Thnx man. I added casters from Home Depot. costs 40 bux. got 2 locking 2 non lock. made my job Much easier when i'm doing my own thing. I have the outer chassis finished, and now moving to inner tubes, etc. the MDF served awesome for the build. Actually even had someone purchase more material so i could construct another frame for her.
Author:  LEAKNOIL [ March 5, 2012, 3:30 am ]
Post subject:  Re: How did you construct your welding table/frame jig?
fritz wrote:


Any opinion on using Advantech



I accidentally tested the Advantech on an outdoor project for a year. It held up great. So well, that I'm planning on re-decking my snowmobile trailer with it also. Should be better than MDF and plywood for our purposes.
Author:  geek49203 [ March 5, 2012, 3:07 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: How did you construct your welding table/frame jig?
I was walking thru Sam's Club, and noticed these heavy shelves:

http://www.samsclub.com/sams/shop/produ ... ction=push

So, they are 2" deep and 6" long and would hold "2000 pounds per shelf" (3 shelves). I could easily buy a couple of them ($180 each or so), modify them to make a work bench, and have shelving under my new work bench. Then when I get done I'd have shelving for all of the left over stuff.

I'm sure that I could also source some old warehouse shelving parts too, but not sure about the price.
Author:  Off Road SHO [ March 5, 2012, 5:52 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: How did you construct your welding table/frame jig?
FieroReinke wrote:
When I build mine in the spring, I am going to design it so that when I am done I can run the circular saw down the middle of it length wise and turn the two left halves into a long work bench.



That is an excellent idea, whether out of wood or steel. If you built it, knowing in advance you were going to split it, you could add the "back" bracing at the git-go and be hours of labor ahead. Great idea.

I tried those Edsal racks, from Home Depot and Lowes. Extremely disappointed in them. The side supports were obviously built in a jig, unfortunately the jig was crooked so every upright was then crooked, AND exactly the same. What it boiled down to was that the front and back legs of each upright tapered closer together as they went upwards, so the wire shelves would be loose on the bottom, slightly tight in the middle and un-usable in the top position. The spread measured about 3/8" from top to bottom.

When I took them back to HD for a refund, I check another set (opened the box) and it was off by the same amount. Went to Lowes and the same thing. I ended up finding real warehouse shelving on Craigslist that cost 125.00 (60.00 less that the Edsal crap) per section that included two 10' upright, 6-8' cross beams, 5 2x4's to fit across the two cross beams and a sheet of 5/8" particle board. I bought 3 complete sections. Much much better in my opinion.

Tom
Author:  Barn118 [ July 2, 2012, 11:14 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: How did you construct your welding table/frame jig?
I made a 4 x 8 wall with studs every 18 inches. I sheeted it with osb on both sides. Then I cut 1 x 2's about five inches long, predrilled them so I could put two wood screws through them and place them right next to the square tubing and held them In place with the pieces of wood.

My table never made it outside. I painted it white so I could draw out everythin on the table also.
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