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PostPosted: September 15, 2011, 11:30 am 
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Hey guys, It's been a long time since I've posted here. But finally getting started, was going to pick up the steel today. We just got blue prints off line, and I was not completely sure that the base of the frame was 1x1, 16 gauge steel, does that sound about right? I've never really bought raw materials before, should it be mild steel? what should I look for?

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Mike


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PostPosted: September 15, 2011, 11:51 am 
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Yes, ordinary ERW (electrically resistance-welded) 1018 or 1020 mild steel is fine.

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PostPosted: September 15, 2011, 11:54 am 
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You should try to get "cold rolled instead of "hot rolled". The hot rolled (HRS) is covered in "mill scale" which must be removed before welding.

You will also be able to use some 3/4" square and round... I think this is in the FAQ, but maybe not. Buy some extra for practice and maybe a small practice project.

Mild steel is what is commonly used, you will not likely get choice on alloys. Usually it is "1010".

Kurt, have you seen square tube in those alloys? Maybe I'll try looking again. I've seen round DOM in 1020,1025. Also don't normally see 1018, it's an alloy with extra Manganese, I think...

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PostPosted: September 15, 2011, 12:12 pm 
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Oops, yes it may be 1010. The yards around here never specify the alloy and it's a fair chance they don't know what it is anyway. Very much agree on cold-rolled - hot-rolled is downright lousy stuff to weld.

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PostPosted: September 15, 2011, 3:41 pm 
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In case you are scratching your head about that Cold vs. Hot rolled, cold is shiny, hot is black. The cold not only looks nicer, it is work hardened (stronger) from the milling process.

John


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PostPosted: February 8, 2012, 4:28 pm 
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Cold rolled 1018 should be the lowest grade used when you are sitting in it and hoping to make it through any kind of collision.
4130 is not a tremendous amount more, but I don't see alot of mention of it used on this site.
The welding is more important with 4130, but it does weld a little nicer also. It also has better corrosion resistance over time.

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PostPosted: February 13, 2012, 8:11 am 
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unobtainium wrote:
Cold rolled 1018 should be the lowest grade used when you are sitting in it and hoping to make it through any kind of collision.


Well like it or not most use 1010 - that also applies outside of the US for what competition cars are made from.


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PostPosted: February 13, 2012, 10:36 am 
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Can you even buy 4130 square tube?

I do think you're better off with cold rolled 1018 for the square tube if you can get it, but it doesn't seem available easily for many people. This is one of the reasons I think a tubing kit with the round joints fish mouthed might make sense...

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PostPosted: February 13, 2012, 10:52 am 
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http://www.aedmotorsport.com/index.asp?category=28011
Here is a drag bike frame I helped with...
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Image
Guy was an amazing fitter for an amateur, did only about 5% of that, but all of the welding. Lots of rectangular used with the round. Very stiff, strong, and light.


Yikes, 1010? Well, is what it is I guess. I've seen some scary stuff in grassroots stuff. Most guys are smart enough to go a little over on the tubing and welds if they aren't pros though. They build in some safety factor.
1010 is pretty weak in terms of tensile. I can't say I've ever welded it.(knowingly).

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PostPosted: February 13, 2012, 11:33 am 
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Langdon, AB - is that near Calgory? How easy is it for you to get good steel? Do you have to get it shipped?

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PostPosted: February 13, 2012, 12:44 pm 
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1x1 .065 is quoted at $10.75 per FOOT at Aircraft Spruce and Specialty (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/m ... square.php). Discount for quantity!

JMR

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PostPosted: February 13, 2012, 1:29 pm 
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unobtainium wrote:

Yikes, 1010? Well, is what it is I guess. I've seen some scary stuff in grassroots stuff. Most guys are smart enough to go a little over on the tubing and welds if they aren't pros though. They build in some safety factor.


Your talk of death and gloom for using 1010 is rubbish, documented both practically (the thousands of hand built cars out there that also occasionally crash) and in physics - but what's worst is it scares off people who want to build something themselves and find while they can afford standard "off the rack" 1010, they can't stretch the wallet to more expensive materials - all because of uninformed posts like yours.

Here is the SCCA rulebook on the matter ..

6. Material:

A. Seamless, or DOM (Drawn Over Mandrel) mild steel tubing (SAE 1010, 1020, 1025) or equivalent, or alloy steel tubing (SAE, 4130) shall be used for all roll cage structures. Proof of use of alloy steel is the responsibility of the entrant.

B. Minimum tubing sizes (all Formula, Sports Racing, GT, and Production Category automobiles, and all automobiles registered prior to June 1, 1994) for all required roll cage elements (All dimensions in inches):

Vehicle Weight Material
Without Driver Mild Steel Alloy Steel
Up to 1500 lbs. 1.375 x .095 1.375 x .080
1500-2500 lbs. 1.50 x .095 1.375 x .095
Over 2500 lbs. 1.50 x .120 1.50 x .095
1.625 x .120 or 1.75 x .095

They and the FIA don't care which mild steel you use for protection but they very much want to know if you use an alloyed steel because the wrong one may be lethal.


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PostPosted: February 13, 2012, 3:23 pm 
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horizenjob wrote:
Can you even buy 4130 square tube?


Its out there but it comes with a nice price tag.

According to a 2009 price list I have for a semi-local place, he will sell you a foot of 1"x0.065" round DOM 4130 for $2.70. 1"x1"x0.065" seamless 4130 square tube will set you back $5.30 per foot.

Gold bars are probably cheaper. ;)


cheapracer wrote:
They and the FIA don't care which mild steel you use for protection but they very much want to know if you use an alloyed steel because the wrong one may be lethal.


This sums it up. Choose a material and design for its properties.

As a plus, the mild steels tend to not be as brittle as 4130. For a home built car this has advantages when it comes to longevity and fatigue considerations even though the material strength is lower.

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PostPosted: February 13, 2012, 3:53 pm 
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horizenjob wrote:
Langdon, AB - is that near Calgory? How easy is it for you to get good steel? Do you have to get it shipped?


Yes, shipped. All in the cost of doing it right.

As for the doom and gloom, that's not my intention at all. Education is.
Yes, they allow crappy material to be used, to try and satisfy budget constraints. The tubing size for the 7 weight category is larger than most use, does that make it wrong?
I understand that there is extra cost involved. I also understand that they are careful about the alloys because of required skill and knowledge, not because it isn't better. They know that trusting the average joe to do research and follow procedures is not a safe bet. If they keep the material spec within the reach of most, then less money has to be handed over to certified welders to do the work. This would up the cost of a build quite bit.
NHRA, which sees substantially more momentum, has gone the other way in spite of the cost. Once your car is very fast 8.50 or faster, then you must use 4130 and it must be TIG welded, with no grinding.

I think that if you had the chance to make the frame 25% stronger with no weight penalty, and maybe $500 more cost on the whole of the project in terms of material, it should be an easy decision.
I'm not promoting a sale, just offering up suggestions on easy improvements. Excess yield strength is like anything else good in this world: Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it.

Look closely at the floor, and how the rollbar is protruding through it with the plates still attached. This was deemed safe for racing by a tech guy....Now look at the roof.
Image
Image
When somebody comes to me for a safety cage, I don't always accept the minimum rules as the be all end all. I think about what I've learned and read, and apply as much as I can within the time and budget constraints of the job. Like this, for instance....
Floor boxes designed to spread the load not just wide over the floor area, but to other strong areas of the car.
Image
But, behind the scenes, there is more to the box then meets the eye...
Image
The box is supported by the tube, which is welded to the lateral tube and through-tube for the wiring. The box and all corresponding tubes carry the load in the event of anything bad.
Image
Overkill, sure. Re-mortgage the house, no. When you guys are doing this yourself, your cost of labour is minimal. I'm sure nobody plans on going on the roof, or getting crashed into, but why not consider the choices of where your money could be spent? Good tires, strong and intelligent suspension and frame. A good seat with excellent attachment consideration, and fuel safety. Everything else like power and looks should be secondary to the budget.

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Last edited by unobtainium on February 13, 2012, 6:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: February 13, 2012, 5:15 pm 
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I hope you got permission to post the first photograph.


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