LocostUSA.com

Okay so I'm Alan N, From Nebraska. I'm working on a mcsorley 442e with a 240sx s14 donor car. I have most of the main frame done, just haven't mounted anything. I would like some ideas on how to mount the rear end, and how to work on steering and stuff, i'm a teenager and i'm doing this for a high school project in metals class, i have plenty of tools just need some advise on hot to mount up the rear end currently. ill probably be asking opinions on here often,, any advice can help

Thanks

Look for other threads using the same or similar parts to what you have for inspiration. I layed out all the parts then built the frame to support the parts in the correct location. I recommend only tac welding until the car is on its wheel and you can do an alignment. I have just had to redo my suspension because the mounting points we off meaning the wheels did not move correctly. Each mounting point was less than a half inch off but it made a huge difference.

Good luck with the build try to add pictures when possible we like to see what you are doing.

_________________
2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
2013 & 2014 DSP Florida State Autocross Champion

Scrap Metal Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14558

Hi Alan-
We've had a few discussions in here about mounting the rear diff, but I don't recall any of them being specifically about a 240 Nissan. However, if you do some searching I think you might find a few of them. And, to follow on with Paul's comments above, if you could take a few pictures of the diff you're trying to mount, especially the actual mounting tabs on it, that'd help us out a lot with suggestions.

Keep us posted, especially those pictures of the differential! And check back in here every once in a while, some of the smart kids might answer you better than I did...


JD Kemp

_________________
JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

Welcome Allen. There are several builds to see here in Kansas City if you ever get down this way. There is also the Midwest Se7ens Gathering west of St Louis this coming June and you are welcome to come down there to pick the brains of a bunch of great guys. Russ

_________________
You meet the nicest people in a Locost Se7en.

Lca is Z shaped. Upper strut bolt has uca spherical on one side of the upright and the coilover on the other. The lower strut bolt can be used to provide double shear versus single as shown but this is just to give you the general idea.

Check out B85s build.

I think that's an Impreza rear end, MV8... r160
http://members.shaw.ca/drax77/Diff%20compare%201.jpg

I'm just wondering, why don't you just use the 2 control arms just like comes with the upright? It looks simple and with a rod end you could have a good amount of adjustability.

_________________
mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

Are you planing on using the stock sub frame or are you going to make new mounts on the frame. The 240sx has a multi-link rear suspension that may be difficult to fit in the back of a locost, but it would be an excellent choice due to the enormous amount of aftermarket parts available for them. Here is where you can see a picture of the rear subframe removed from the car.

http://www.canadanissan.com/showthread. ... -1989-1990

Thanks for the correction.

I found a few views and it looks like the subframe would fit (with the horns trimmed off) but the coilovers upper mounting point would be much closer together than normal for a locost, reducing space for the fuel tank above the diff. Worthwhile imho, but you need to be at that point in the build before measuring twice and cutting once.

Carguy, the two separate lca links alone would not locate the upright fore/aft. It would swing back and forth on the bushings. The trailing lca would locate it if there was room for it. The two separate lca links could be made into a single with one lcap to locate the upright laterally if the trailing arm was utilized.

Alan
You need to design the rear suspenion linkage first, or find a workiing build with a 240SX of known dims, or you will end up taking one step forward and two back. Copying a known design should be your first choice. You can easily fall into the trap of building the frame and finding out that the tubes are not in the ideal location for attaching the suspension links. I would suggest that you work on other areas until you are certain of your suspension design. If you are lucky your school may have a CAD program that can be used. If not, you need to do some reseach on suspensions systems. Allan Staniforth's Race and Rally Car source book is excellent,ISBN 1 85960 846 9.
The suspension attaching tubes or brackets, should be within a 2mm tolerance, or you could run into problems with the suspension blinding during jounce or rebound. When you need suggestions, or run into any problems I'm sure this crew will give you a hand. Dave W

Thank you all for your help, ill keep searching around for someone that has done it already and see if they can send me some sort of plans. Thanks for the quick replies and ill see if i can get pictures up later today, again it doesnt look like much right now.

Hi Alan, welcome here! I'm pretty sure a lot of us went to high school too, so you should fit in fine around here.

_________________
Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.

Bubba went to the 7th grade for four years, does that count???

Haha im sure that counts!

And guys sorry im asking so many questions, my teacher is a "everything needs plans plans plans" kinda guy and my dad is a well just go figure it out on your own, im starting into the drive-train, and suspension and it looks as if ive bit off more then i can chew, but im hoping someone can at least give me enough pointers so i can get it done. My goal to have it done is may. Im not sure if thats possible but thats the goal.

I would do something like what miatav8's pic is showing, it looks to me that it would be fairly easy to come up with a way to mount the whole sub frame which would go a long way to getting it done sooner and with less headaches from trying to design your one suspension. Just pull the sub frame, set your frame at ride height, the sub frame at the height biased on the tire sise you want to use and see how everything lines up. That will show you if the stock sub frame will work and how much modifications the frame and sub frame need.