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AWESOME ! there is no limitation with the ball stud in the ball joint .
my concern is still the angle of the stud in the ball joint socket under compression .
my guess is the suspension travel will be about 5" ?
from static ride height it will be what ?
some thing like 1.5 in droop /rebound and 3.5 in compression /dive as a guess .
so from static your not going to need 6" of droop so the angle of the ball stud at 6" of droop is not a concern .
how ever in up travel if it were me I would try and replicate the same angle as the lexus ball joint in more of a neutral position .
what did you get for angles in the turning the knuckle for steering in lock to lock positions (all the way left to all the way right) ?

Iadr - i do have the reamer so thats not an issue. I talked to a guy at Howe Enterprises and he said they will have more -0.5" studs next week so i might order them then if i decide it is worth pursuing with the current setup.

962 - I am planning on ~6" of travel and I was thinking of 4" compression and 2" droop. I didn't take any measurements of the angle in steering. Quite honestly, i don't really know where or how to measure it other than move it through all of its range of motion and see if it reaches it's limits. if you can tell me how to do it i will.

An a side note, it appears that the term "working angle" is the motion of the ball stud in one direction on one plane. So 32* in each direction from center in the case of the K727.

Even if this setup ends up not working and I have to start over, i think it might help others with their planning so it wouldn't be a total loss.

Thanks
Gavin

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

You can figure out exactly how much droop you actually need by the load at each corner of the car and the wheel rate. You may actually have only 1" of droop before the springs rattle free, so it pays to figure it out. Also, save about 1" for a bump rubber, else the suspension will make terrible crashing noises in bump, you'll bend an A-arm and/or destroy the shock, and possibly leave the road due to the suspension stiffness instantly going to infinity.

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Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

Those sound like a good set of topics for a "How-To" thread in the suspension section. It's something we all should calculate. Carroll Smith indicated in one of his books that he thought springs going free on coilovers was dangerous, but I don't recall him suggesting a remedy for it.

Cheers

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

to stop the springs from losing contact with spring seats / perch you can wire them to one another or use top out limiting straps .

a shock should never be used to stop the suspension travel you should use bump stops .


of you can't see what and how the suspension and steering will work in your design program then you will have to do it the old fashion way and move every thing your self and see what is going on .

Did I mention the option to punt??
These are from an 87 Toyota 2wd pickup (Hilux?) Obviously I will have to modify my LCA or redo it. I will have to take measurements of the spindle to figure out what is needed. At quick glance, the BJ flanges are 190mm top to bottom which are ~10* down angle from the axle. The factory control arms were absolutely straight so the LBJ sockets will need to be at 0*. My reamer has some work to do but not too much.

Some differences from the Lexus to the Toyota are; Tie rods are on top for the Toyota and bottom on the Lexus, brakes are 9.8" for Toyota and 10.7 for Lexus, Brakes are 1/4 the cost for the Toyota and more options, Toyota has standard single piston calipers and Lexus has 2 pistons, the ball joints are directly above each other and at the same angle on the Toyota.

With the wheels that I have, I need about 15mm spacer because the dust cap protrudes too far out and because the UBJ hits the rim but once the spindle is reamed so that the UBJ is fully engaged.

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

I have gone through a ton of iterations on the front suspension setup and I think I have something I am comfortable with. I will have to move the UCA mount above the "kink" on the front hoop to give me a decent RC. Please let me know what you think.

-New setup with Toyota spindles-

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

Mnot this looks like a good job. I like that in addition to having the right numbers the front and the back are very similar to each each other in the way they behave.

Look forward to seeing it running.

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Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
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looks good !