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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: March 18, 2015, 5:46 pm 
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Long time lurker, first time poster. I have The Book, the Gibbs book and Mr. Tanner's book and have enjoyed contemplating building a Seven over the years but haven't taken the plunge. Given limited time I was considering building a Miata based Exocet (sort of a LEGO version)...when I came across a locost frame. Do you think this frame is a good place to start? Not worth the time? Here is description from the current owner:

All round tubing construction, all welds are Tig. Frame was built on a frame bench and all tubing is fish-mount fitted. The perimeter frame is welded solid but all the inner structure is just tack welded so you could redesign for different drive-train

The chassis was built by the lead instructor of chassis fab at wyotech vocational school built to standard lotus 7 specs with round tubing. The frame was fabricated on a frame bench and is a great start to a super 7 build. I was a student at wyotech and had a friend who is into lotus 7's so I purchased the frame and brought it home for him. He already had his frame with suspension finished so he just wanted the engine and rear axle. The front suspension was never
completed The engine was a GM v-6 but any engine could be made to fit


My assumption is this is probably a Gibbs frame with all round tubes? I am worried with all round tubes it may be difficult:
1) to fit panels?
2) place suspension components and engine mounts

He describes it as set up for a V6 but i see no engine mounts? I think the carrier for the IRS needs to be built. As a novice welder I'm probably more comfortable with square tubes but again a little concerned with mounting to round. He was asking $1000 has come down to $500. Still sounds a bit high. Advice appreciated. Thanks,

Matt


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Last edited by EastBayMatt on March 18, 2015, 8:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: March 18, 2015, 7:39 pm 
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Joined: January 2, 2009, 1:45 pm
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Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia
At $500 the price is a steal ...... presuming it is suitable for your application.

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PostPosted: March 18, 2015, 10:39 pm 
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Joined: December 7, 2012, 8:28 am
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Personally I wanted to do everything myself. However that is a very good price, the metal alone is almost worth that value and it is painted and tig welded. If you can make it work go for it.

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PostPosted: March 19, 2015, 12:40 am 
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Joined: April 26, 2008, 6:06 pm
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There have been some design changes made for various reasons, some seemingly better than others in my humble opinion, but I would say it appears to be based on "The Book" chassis rather the Gibbs book chassis. Which means originally intended for solid axle, not IRS. That would also explain the friend wanting the "rear axle".

It's a great deal for what it is...Provided it is what you want.

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"Orville Wright did not have a pilots license." - Gordon MacKenzie


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PostPosted: March 19, 2015, 1:54 am 
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Joined: March 18, 2015, 4:45 pm
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Thank you! Now that the outer has been TIG welded.....can it be converted to IRS. I have seen threads utilizing the Miata subframe.....could I do something similar with this frame? My goal was to use as many miata pieces as possible to keep it as simple as possible. I would love to come out with a result similar to Keith Tanners car in his book.

Matt


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PostPosted: March 19, 2015, 7:34 am 
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Joined: July 17, 2008, 9:11 am
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Location: West Chicago,IL
Quote:
Provided it is what you want.


Therein lies the rub. Make sure it is what you want first. Make sure your chosen engine fits well for height, and that your body fits and your feet fit side by side and will not interfere with the 3rd pedal. Then figure much of that pretty paint will have to be done all over again since you will be welding in your engine mounts, shock mounts, suspension pickups, dash frame, belt mounts etc. It is a temptation. I know because I sort of went that way. I bought somebody's home-welded CMC chassis and cut out a significant part of it to create "my" dream. It can be done, and it did get me motivated, but if I were to do it again, I'd start from scratch.

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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: March 19, 2015, 11:13 am 
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Thanks. Your rotary build looks great. So...assuming I am looking for a Miata based IRS probably using the rear carrier.

Tell me if I'm wrong! I'm going to assume (I know ...dangerous) ..
1). That miata engine will fit...because it has been done with book frames before.
2) understood paint is just preventing rust and much of it will have to be ground off before welding
3) the leap I am making is that I can fit the rear carrier of the miata using my limited welding skills and probably square tubes to connect. Enough on this board have done it that there is somewhat of a template for how.
4) What I like is that the exterior of chassis has been TIG welded by professional (albeit with student involvement). I have some confidence in my ability to do the rest. Any issues with me combining square tube to the round tube locate the rear carrier? I don't see why there would be but...
5). Is Jack with Kinetic still producing parts. Ideally I'd like to order and snap together as much as possible. Over the years I have seen so many of these projects stall that for me the victory will be in finishing. Sort of not letting perfect get in the way of good or done.

Thanks in advance!

Matt


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PostPosted: March 19, 2015, 11:16 am 
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Whoops last part to check would be IF my 10.5s will fit in footwell ....and if my long Torso will leave my head way over the roll bar.

Of course in the meantime I've called attention to a frame for sale and somebody else may be scooping it up!

Matt


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PostPosted: March 19, 2015, 11:43 am 
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Location: West Chicago,IL
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1). That miata engine will fit...because it has been done with book frames before
Yes it has been done But some make a compromise that is not really what they originally wanted. The OAH of the Miata is tall for a book frame making the hood and nose sit higher than they would have preferred. Some get by with adding 1" more height to the chassis in the engine compartment, letting the nose scuttle and hood sit 1" higher, or just add to the nose and hood and scuttle for the extra clearance. Others just build the chassis 1" higher. Regardless of how you do it, tat 1" extra is noticeable to the trained eye. It is only cosmetics and may be OK with you.


Quote:
5). Is Jack with Kinetic still producing parts.
Yes, and even more than is on his website. Give him a call when you are ready to see what he can help with.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: March 19, 2015, 11:31 pm 
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Joined: March 18, 2015, 4:45 pm
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Thank you all for the advice. At this point in life I have decided to pass (2 year old and a business) Here's the link for anyone else that may be interested.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/4935085782.html


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