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I have been searching all over to see what others have done in regards to the steering column support and a removable scuttle. As it is shown in the Gibbs book, the column support is separate but the support seems to occupy the same space as the bottom horizontal tubes of the removable scuttle frame and no mention of how. i would like to make a steel frame with an aluminum skin. Please share pics and suggestions. Thanks

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

On the R1 project the steering column support is welded onto the bottom of the frame member. It extends toward the cockpit and up to be in line with the dash opening and the firewall hole for the flange bearing.



The scuttle frame rests on the outer frame rails and four bolts hold it in place

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Too much week, not enough weekend.

OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216

I built mine so I could remove the dash, the firewall or the outer scuttle individually. removing the outer scuttle while keeping everything else in place has come in handy when working on electricals. My Megasquirt module is in there as is my fuse panel.

CONCEPT:


FRAME:


IN PROCESS


FINAL PRODUCT

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I made sure I could drop the scuttle over the installed steering column, which helped when building the car, but not much of an advantage now, since removing the removeable scuttle would be a huge job. Far better to have a removeable aluminum or fiberglass skin.

I also made a "removable" scuttle of welded steel. The steering column goes through it and would have to be removed first if the scuttle was to be removed. The dashboard of the scuttle is removable separately so it can pulled forward for access to the wiring. If I were to do it again, I would build it almost the same, but make the scuttle frame a bit more rigid and use a few well positioned screws instead of tack welds to fasten the skin. A removable skin would make it a lot easier to work on the wiring. Pulling the dash forward is still fairly limiting.

John

I had a fiberglass one piece scuttle, but it was a pain to get at anything under it, including my clutch master cylinder. So I welded a hoop to the frame for a new dash and hacked up my existing scuttle to use as a cover. I'm still working on it, waiting for the latest batch of fiberglass to set up. Here's a few pictures.









The fiberglass cover will be attached with two dzus fasteners on each side, just like the original scuttle was. I also have the dash a bit closer to the seat and more upright so I can reach the switches a bit easier with my short arms.
Kristian

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V6 in a book frame build. Now registered.
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7587
viewtopic.php?f=33&t=18172

Thanks guys, that is really helpful! So it seems that the frame doesn't necessarily need to be removable because removing the scuttle "skin" is much more useful.

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

On the finished car, absolutely. Removable is nice while building, however.

Same idea here. My scuttle comes off with 4 screws and dash/steering stay in place. Let's face it, on a car like this you will be poking at in regularly for a while so quick access to the areas you want is pretty nice. Except for side, and rear panels on my car, I can have it stripped down in minutes. Makes it easier to work on.

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Build log: viewtopic.php?t=9291