classic conversions wrote:
. . . <SNIP> . . .
In my plan I have decided to go with a 4 link with angle links, thus eliminating the panhard rod.
I found a very nice Miter saw Evolution RAGE it cuts metal, tile and wood with the same blade.
Collecting the right tools for the project, any ideas ?
In my plan I have decided to go with a 4 link with angle links, thus eliminating the panhard rod.
I found a very nice Miter saw Evolution RAGE it cuts metal, tile and wood with the same blade.
Collecting the right tools for the project, any ideas ?
I looked at that same saw and was impressed by it's abilities as shown in the online product videos. However, I got lucky and found a very nice, used, Taiwan-built, band saw marketed by Grizzly for $500. It's variable speed and has a digital readout, so it's easy to use. The down sides are: 1) it's physically big; and 2) runs on 220V. That said, I'm glad I have it because you can do so much more with it (including wood, but I wouldn't do tile) versus the Evolution Rage. It took me a while to find it as most of the comparable, American-made saws (like Do All and similar) are around $2,000 used, which was out of budget for me at that time.
You actually can cut almost all the chassis pieces by hand with a hacksaw if you want. The flat plate is a bit of an issue, though. Cut tubes a little larger (like 1/32", 1/16") and finish by hand with files or a grinder and you can get beautiful joints with excellent fit-up. I did some parts of my own chassis my hand.
I did start out with a chop saw (abrasive wheel saw), however. I didn't like it. It essentially melts the steel and leaves a very sloppy cut IMHO. You have all the final finish issues that you get with a hacksaw, but it's very messy. Definitely wear a paper welding mask. The cheap Home Depot type dusk masks are pretty useless, IMHO.
Next up for me was a Harbor Freight portable band saw. Some guys have done clever things that turn them into fixed saws with a small work table. That's the way to go if you decide on this approach. Held by hand, it's easy to go wrong with the direction of the cut. Having to hold the tool obscures the visibility, I found.
I ended up with the bandsaw mentioned at top. I'll be doing many projects over the years, so I consider its cost will be "amortized" over a lot of different work.
I look forward to your build. It should be interesting. I'm a V6 "sinner" too. I've had several turbo-charged I4s over the years. I'd definitely consider a modern version like the Ford Eco-Boost or GM turbos. But, I tell you, I would love to have a RWD version of the Chrysler 3.6L, DOHC V6 in our Dodge Gran Caravan. It's a 60-degree V6, very compact and light, and revs like crazy. You get 283HP and 260 lb-ft of torque even in mini-van tune, and it loves to be turbocharged.
Everyone's expectations for their Locost are different. I was looking for something along the lines of one that performs like these two cars (Caterham and Stryker). Both are I4s incidentally, but not your typical, under-powered, 1500CC 4-bangers.
Cheers,
1) Caterham/Duratec ==> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JAwNfgvF_Ww
2) Stryker/S2000 ==> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wDMukessQtk
Cheers,
P.S. The 4-link is do-able, but you'll have some packaging issues to deal with. The upper links will want to attach to your seatback structure and you'll need to consider that and watch out for overly short (8" or less) links. 3-links with the upper link going to the top of the transmission tunnel area have been done too.
