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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: September 9, 2016, 10:10 pm 
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Joined: January 9, 2016, 8:45 pm
Posts: 53
Location: Knoxville, TN
I use the Manson Military Rifle crowning tool. It is worth every penny, they are like $120. It take me 5 minutes to put an 11 degree crown on a muzzle. And the lathe has already paid for itself with the barrels I have threaded for myself as well as some NFA items I made.


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PostPosted: September 10, 2016, 1:03 am 
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Joined: August 11, 2012, 4:44 pm
Posts: 1418
Location: Charlotte, NC
All great info here. what's your budget for a welder?

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PostPosted: March 5, 2017, 11:50 pm 
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Joined: November 18, 2016, 6:57 pm
Posts: 1
I bought the little Lincoln 140amp output--120volt input MIG..on gas.-paid abt $500 for it on sale. Built my whole chassis & many other parts. Three years of use & no problems. Found that it welds best on mid-range--plenty of power for light tube & sheet. Have even welded-on a broken shock-mount on my buddy's Ford truck !


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PostPosted: March 13, 2017, 11:29 pm 
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Joined: April 19, 2012, 9:43 pm
Posts: 408
Location: Colorado
I can't speak to their MIGs but I've been beyond pleased with my Everlast TIG. I'd say take a look at them. They're offering 5 year warranty on all their welders and from what I read, they typically are very easy to work with when one of their machines breaks and needs warranty. If you have access to 240v, get a 240v welder. They are more powerful and usually just have an easier time putting that power into the workpiece.

I buy steel from my LWS. It isn't the cheapest place, but it's only a 5 minute drive away. The next closest place that sells steel is about 45 minutes away in Denver.

I echo the sentiments about not buying cheap wire. At the end of the day, your welder is melting metal together. It works or it doesn't. That cheap wire; it's keeping your frame together. Good wire will flow better, produce less slag, and be stronger due to tighter controls on the metallurgy.

I'd also recommend the biggest bottle of gas you can physically handle. I have a 300 size bottle and I use my engine hoist to get it in the truck. The upside to that hassle, it lasts for a LONG time. I probably have several hundred hours of welding on that first bottle that lasted for about 9 months.


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PostPosted: March 15, 2017, 10:25 pm 
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Joined: January 31, 2012, 12:49 pm
Posts: 1431
Location: Louisville KY
Hobart 140 to start 'cause I didn't have 220 to plug in a new HF 220 unit that I got as a gift. The limitations of the Hobart are that it won't do aluminum (you'll want to do that someday) and it is pretty much maxed out at 1/4" steel (which you probably won't worry about on this project).

That HF unit will probably go bye-bye someday. Seriously, even HF disavows its existence now. It's never been used....

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MetalsDepot.com for mail order has worked good for me. Great for all the special weird stuff.

www.metalsupermarkets.com has a local store that is really great -- scrap pile and access to a huge metal brake Oand people who don't think you're a bother if you ask them to cut a 20' section of tube in two (so long as it's not long-ways?).

I started out with Alro 'cause I lived near their headquarters in MI. They had a retail store there w/ cut offs, etc. I was gravely disappointed when I got to Louisville and they didn't want to deal with my piddly little orders (seriously guys, $120 for 2x20 tubes?). But they also were the one who turned me on to Metal Supermarket down the road (I took the hints).

I used Dillon Supply in Raleigh. Nice people.

If that doesn't work, go to your local circle track and ask the guys in the paddock who they recommend. Or better yet, join your local SCCA and ask those folks.

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Wear gloves when you pick up your steel -- Dirty and sharp edges. Bring a red "flag" cause it's gonna hang out of whatever you're driving. And of course, some ropes/straps. Unless you're sure that your store cuts the 20' tubes for no extra cost (check on that) then bring a hack saw or battery-operated sawz-all.

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Geek49203 aka
Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.
Girlfriend thinks I'm nuts for building this....


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PostPosted: April 6, 2017, 12:57 am 
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Joined: April 2, 2017, 12:40 am
Posts: 11
this is the welder i have, can i do this project?
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/Equipment/Pages/product.aspx?product=k2513-1(LincolnElectric)

i have oodles of patience and i my dad is licensed journeyman welder who will help out.


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PostPosted: April 6, 2017, 6:56 pm 
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Joined: November 13, 2009, 9:31 pm
Posts: 90
Location: Connecticut
Found a Millermatic 140 with a full bottle of 75/25, several spools of wire, and a good auto darkening helmet in the local pawn for $500, has been a fantastic machine.

slloyd, I don't see any reason that Lincoln 125 would not be enough for all the frame welding. If you want to build uprights with heavy stock you might have issues, but if dad's a welder, I expect you can work that out

And speaking of the Hammer/Nail saying...


Attachments:
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PostPosted: April 6, 2017, 7:42 pm 
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Joined: January 31, 2012, 12:49 pm
Posts: 1431
Location: Louisville KY
slloyd wrote:
this is the welder i have, can i do this project?
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/Equipment/Pages/product.aspx?product=k2513-1(LincolnElectric)

i have oodles of patience and i my dad is licensed journeyman welder who will help out.


Yup. Just might be a bit smokey at times.

But ya know the rules here, you gotta post your pics in a build thread and you gotta let us know when you make funny mistakes. 'Cause, you know, rules! :lol:

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Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.
Girlfriend thinks I'm nuts for building this....


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PostPosted: April 7, 2017, 11:13 pm 
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Joined: April 2, 2017, 12:40 am
Posts: 11
will do. i have to build the garage to build it in first so you know.. one step at a time :)

thx for the advice


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