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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: January 14, 2023, 4:49 pm 
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Looks good!

If the oil pan is hanging an inch below the frame as-is, the best thing to do would be to cut out all the diagonals at the ends (easier if you leave the welds and cut slight away, then grind later if needed) then cut the verticals along the bottom end (just above your fillet welds) and add four inches with two to be added to the cowl height.

An easier option that is not a big deal unless you are concerned about adding a few pounds to the chassis is to weld another upper rail with three inch spacers every foot or so. It will be mostly hidden by the skin wrapped around it and it isn't structural (although it will contribute and add some crash protection) as you still have the full chassis below.

Don't ever final weld anything until all the parts are where they need to be. Just two or three tacks at each tube end. Once it is done, take it all apart for final welding and painting.

I've not studied the 442E to compare it, but any height increase in the front needs to match the back increase.

UPDATE: I just took a look. Comparing a 442E to a 442, the E has a wider (+7.3" at front) engine bay but I don't see any differences that could help with a taller engine. I do see how the 442E could help to prevent rack narrowing and allow a better cooling radiator to fit in the nose and maybe a slightly wider track on the front for less understeer.

I checked the book chassis, Tiger, and Hays/Gibbs. The rear body depth should be between 1.6-1.65 times the engine bay chassis depth (bottom of lower rail to top of upper rail).

The bonnet/cowl should be about 0.80 times the engine bay depth.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: January 14, 2023, 7:47 pm 
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I don't think that I have problem until the rear firewall. The rear trunk is to low. That calculation make sense, 1.6-1.65 x 15"(chassis height)= 24-24.75".
If I make a 11" tall cowl/dash, the total height would be 26". That is much closer to 24-24.75", than 21" at the moment.
.080 x 15= 12". You are saying that my dash should be a bit higher, than 10-11"?
My biggest issue, is how to make the transition from the angled tube(rear firewall) to the deck of the trunk to look good. I don't want to make a step there, that would look ugly.

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'20 Alfa Romeo Stelvio daily
Locost/442E in progress


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PostPosted: January 14, 2023, 8:20 pm 
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OK, I have added some height to the rear(~6.5" in angle length).
This is how it looks, I like it. The only issue I see, that rear end angle of the car has to change, has to be longer, or vertical(which is ugly). Or shorten the length of the top trunk length.
8-1/2" is the nose height(which I don't have yet), 10" is the dash height and the 11" would be the rear deck height. Not bad imho. What do you guys think.
I still wait for Jack to give me a quote for the nose(not in a lot of hurry though, you know the money issue, always the money).
Don't mind the rear firewall cross bracing, I screwed up with the compound angles. I will have to redo that firewall.
I have just purchased some 1"x2" tubes for the firewall/subframe frame.


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'20 Alfa Romeo Stelvio daily
Locost/442E in progress


Last edited by tibimakai on January 14, 2023, 8:31 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: January 14, 2023, 8:26 pm 
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tibimakai wrote:
I don't think that I have problem until the rear firewall. The rear trunk is to low. That calculation make sense, 1.6-1.65 x 15"(chassis height)= 24-24.75".
If I make a 11" tall cowl/dash, the total height would be 26". That is much closer to 24-24.75", than 21" at the moment.
.080 x 15= 12". You are saying that my dash should be a bit higher, than 10-11"?
My biggest issue, is how to make the transition from the angled tube(rear firewall) to the deck of the trunk to look good. I don't want to make a step there, that would look ugly.


These ratios are in general. Build to fit your parts (at least 1/2 inch clearance to the highest point). Some plan bonnets/scuttles and chassis dims taper vertically. It depends on what you want.

Cut out k1/2 between m1/2 and O, then raise or add another O as high as needed then replace that part of k1/2.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: January 14, 2023, 8:28 pm 
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Follow k3/4 to get the height, then bring everything to the new height O.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: January 14, 2023, 9:07 pm 
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I have mocked up the rear end lines. It seems to long, what do you think?


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'20 Alfa Romeo Stelvio daily
Locost/442E in progress


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PostPosted: January 14, 2023, 9:12 pm 
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The chassis would be 125" end to end.


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'20 Alfa Romeo Stelvio daily
Locost/442E in progress


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PostPosted: January 15, 2023, 7:18 am 
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No extra length needed. Extend K3/4 (rear firewall) then bring k1/2 to it. Also shorten the length of the legs on the top tube as needed to maintain 74 deg to Y. Maintain the overall shape. The rear deck opening will be a little shorter (I'm guessing an inch or two).

Once the irs subframe is jigged exactly in place, post pics of that at various angles. We can make suggestions on tube placement by drawing on your pics. The suggestions are just more information and a second opinion to help you in deciding how you want to design it.


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_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: January 15, 2023, 9:54 am 
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Try mocking up the top horizonal tube "U" at a downward angle and add a dog leg lower tube design, with a upward bend just pass the sub-frame mounting area.


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PostPosted: January 16, 2023, 5:48 pm 
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MiataV8 I like that idea.
DaveW, sorry but I can't imagine what exactly you are trying to describe.

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'20 Alfa Romeo Stelvio daily
Locost/442E in progress


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PostPosted: January 21, 2023, 9:02 am 
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I think Dave is describing the other style of locost where the vertical tubing at the driver's shoulder is curve to match the radius of the fender arc. Much better looking inho.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: January 21, 2023, 4:06 pm 
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I'm considering that option as well. Not really looking to take apart, what I have done so far.
In the middle of the "firewal" I will have to insert a 1×2 tube to support the crossmember. Got a driveshaft, and next week is arriving the diff.

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'20 Alfa Romeo Stelvio daily
Locost/442E in progress


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PostPosted: January 21, 2023, 7:22 pm 
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If you post some good pics at a couple angles of the trans, mount and frame relationship, we may be able to show some alternatives to a non-removable 1x2.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: January 21, 2023, 7:33 pm 
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This is what I'm trying to achieve:
https://www.locost.ozcarnut.com/rear_end.html
Though, I don't like his square boxy rear end.
I'm trying to avoid what his looks like.
See pictures:
Another thing is, what is an acceptable rear firewall angle? How steep can I go?
If I could lean it more forward, that would take care of my issue.


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'20 Alfa Romeo Stelvio daily
Locost/442E in progress


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PostPosted: January 22, 2023, 10:46 am 
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If the back is leaned forward, you'd have less interior room. The angle should be what the seat back angle would be or if no separate seat, a flat panel with a squab bottom cushion like the originals.

I like the convenience of being open to reach into the rear compartment, but a shoulder height cross bar helps support the passengers back if rear-ended and is close to the right height for a racing harness or shoulder belts.
Figure out what the best height is for the bar for your seating arrangement.

I agree. The OZ car looks great but I'd rather see a kickup at the rear and the 74 degree slope to a level U bar hoop, and a curved section on the side to fill the notch, then skin over.

If the existing cross tube is at the right height for your shoulders, you could use one inch or 1x2 like he did if you want. The upper rear hoop is mostly cosmetic for hanging the skin.

I thought you were talking about a 1x2 trans mount before but upon closer inspection, I see you have a welded plate under the trans mount.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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