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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: March 17, 2018, 12:18 pm 
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Hi davew
Thanks for the note about the engine lift - is it normal that such a lift would take the weight of the whole car...?
As for the 'level' / 'flat' issue I would never be as concerned with the table being level as with being flat. Even checking if a chassis frame is twisted can be checked just as easily if it's off level because one isn't checking the actual 'level' but comparing the levels at different point - if they're all off by the same amount the frame will be 'flat'...
And we're probably only talking a couple of degrees out where a floor has been sloped for drainage purposes.
When I start building I will keep a build log to better explain what I am thinking here.

Thanks, Mangpong.


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PostPosted: March 17, 2018, 8:58 pm 
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MangPong wrote:
Thanks for the note about the engine lift - is it normal that such a lift would take the weight of the whole car...?


Most engine hoists/shop cranes/cherry pickers are rated for 2000#s or more. These cars are generally less than 1500#s ready to run. If you car happens to be a porker, there are 2 Ton hoists available! :wink:

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PostPosted: March 18, 2018, 1:27 am 
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Joined: January 13, 2008, 9:07 pm
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Location: Glendale AZ
Just been through this. Thanks for a idea !
Here is my old table.

Image

And with some old clamping.(this is the Lotus 11/15 build) Seem's I was always moving clamps.

Image

Image

And add two of the 3' x 4' tops. Holding things down has had some problems.

Image

I have a 2' x 3' now and it has worked well.

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PostPosted: May 26, 2018, 10:53 pm 
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OK! Here are some more great ideas for an "Ultimate Build Table", especially if you do a lot of other fab work... or plan on doing more than one car.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YWOM0IApasY

This is one of the best ones that I've seen yet!

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PostPosted: May 27, 2018, 9:19 am 
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Location: central Arkansas
The tubing appears to be 3x1x11ga, which weighs 3-1/2 pounds per foot. I counted 22 tubes, so if they're four feet long, that's 88 feet of tubing, 308 pounds.

I have a price list from a local steelyard, they sell 3x1x11ga tubing for $2.25 per foot, for $198.


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PostPosted: May 27, 2018, 11:14 am 
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
There were some nice ideas in that video. However, the legs were so shaky I don't understand why he didn't solve that problem.

Also, and I'm not joking here, a build table that could fold up into segments arranged vertically would really be the bee's knees IMHO. These tables take up a lot of floor space that's needed for tools and working. If it was also on wheels, so you could move it from place to place as your projects demanded, that would be even better.

Thank for the video though. Ron.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: May 27, 2018, 12:55 pm 
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Location: central Arkansas
While I will admit to "table envy" looking through some of the build threads, for my first chassis I used two wooden sawhorses, a piece of 1/2" plywood, and used my shorter pieces of 1" tubing (I bought a bunch of random lengths at a discount) to support the plywood. After spending some time with shims and the level, it provided an adequate work surface, and by the time I got to where I needed the lengths of tubing supporting the table, the chassis was stiff enough not to need extra support.

The sawhorses went back outside, and the plywood eventually got used for various woodworking projects.

That said, I'm still thinking of a fancier table for the coming build...


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PostPosted: June 4, 2018, 10:48 pm 
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Lonnie-S wrote:
There were some nice ideas in that video... These tables take up a lot of floor space that's needed for tools and working. If it was also on wheels, so you could move it from place to place as your projects demanded, that would be even better.

Thank for the video though. Ron.


I fully understand the need to save space when you can, and the added portability with the addition of wheels. I do plan on wheels for mine, even though I'm in pretty good shape space wise. My pole barn style garage is 32x35, and it seems much roomier with the missing walls! :lol:

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PostPosted: September 15, 2018, 11:37 am 
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A couple ideas that I didn't see covered in the thread, a bit more locost than some:

Heavy duty folding sawhorses:
http://www.toughbuilt.com/product/c700-sawhorse-jobsite-table

These have a load capacity of 2600 lbs/pair, and you can drop 2x4s into the brackets on each end for a very stable work table. The adjustments for a sloping floor would not be as simple. I bought mine for $50 each at a local Home Depot.

A completely different idea came from Fine Homebuilding:
https://s3.amazonaws.com/finehomebuilding.s3.tauntoncloud.com/app/uploads/2016/04/09121732/H217TP_26-main.jpg

I'm not sure about the folding legs, but a pair of these side-by-side with a common top would make a nice cheap table if you could find a straight 16 or 20 foot extension ladder at a yard sale (for some reason they sell extension ladders by the length they would be end-to-end).

Side notes:
I would much prefer working on a painted surface than melamine.
Current local price for 3/4" birch marine plywood is $50 more than MDF.
For those building a more ultimate table, Northern Tool has a set of scaffold screw jacks $50 for 4.


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PostPosted: October 3, 2018, 10:31 am 
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Location: Spencer WV
I'm a long way off from starting a build table, but came across this thread while researching.

I looked around for used i-beams as a base. Apparently I-beams started being made out of solid gold based on the prices I'm seeing. I'll spend less for my used engine than I'd have to pay for a few I-beams.

I did find an industrial salvage place that had used pallet rack beams - the parts that go between the uprights. They're 5" by 120" and pretty heavy steel. $10/each. They have a stepped rather than square profile, but given that they're made to hold up heavy loads, and assuming you can find some that are straight, they would seem to be a pretty affordable source for metal beams for a build table structure even at double or triple the price. Would have to cut off the bracketry on the ends that engages the holes in the uprights, but that should still give you at least 11' of usable material per piece.

I figure 2 or maybe 4 of those lengthwise and maybe use a few more for cross bracing and legs and I could build an extremely sturdy and dimensionally stable framework for under $100 with some cutting and welding.


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PostPosted: October 3, 2018, 10:51 pm 
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You'll probably do well with those pallett rack rails. A guy I used to work with used some to make a trailer for his 3500# short track stock car. Used it for several years with no problems that I ever heard about.

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PostPosted: October 15, 2018, 4:04 pm 
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Location: Alberta
My table is probably overkill in some respects (it's VERY heavy) but I have used it as a fab table for other things and I like it! Anyhoo, here's a quick run down and some pics.

Constructed of 2x4x3/16" tubing, it is completely bolted together so it can be disassembled and stored. The feet currently have wheels on them so I can move it around easily but they can be taken off and the feet rotated to level the table at a more useful (for chassis work) height. I did think I'd like to put a shelf under it but I'm not sure I want to. I'm not too concerned about the legs folding up - each has four bolts connecting it to the rails and cross members.


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

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PostPosted: October 15, 2018, 10:09 pm 
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Hi Jinca - neat table, and pretty sturdy. My only addition would be rubber corners to the top - my hips have a habit of not looking where they're going...


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PostPosted: October 16, 2018, 12:40 pm 
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@zinca
That's very nice, and it's simple too. You might want to consider some caster wheels with locks. It's going to want to move around on you without them.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: February 22, 2019, 2:24 am 
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Location: central Arkansas
Lonnie-S wrote:
Finished table minus plywood top.
Attachment:
Build-Table-1.jpg


Lonnie, how did your table work out for you?

Ordinary wood 2x4s and 2x6s in my area are only available wet, and they turn into curly-fries when they dry. I've been fighting that for years during the Endless Remodel. Not to mention it's common for a board to be 1/8 to 1/4 inch narrower at one and than the other... practically everything I've done has needed shims. Arrrgh.

I had pretty much decided to make a table 2x6 steel studs with OSB on top and bottom, sitting on adjustable sawhorses... except I can't find any place that actually sells 2x6 steel studs that will ship to my area. I can get 2x4 studs, if I buy a bundle of 180 of them. I'm getting the idea that the steel stud thing is either very regional or a fad that has mostly passed...

I can, however, get 1" or 1-1/4" steel tubing at a substantial discount from a local supplier...


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