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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: December 1, 2018, 1:02 am 
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Joined: October 19, 2009, 9:36 pm
Posts: 2089
Location: meadview arizona
i got the motor out yesterday, now comes the part where i have to outsmart the idiot that decided to leave out the woodruff key in the crank, so along with that i will build the motor stronger, faster and a little less boosty.

the plan is to use a cosworth timing sprocket on the crank with the keyway machined into it and cut a similar keyway in the crank, in addition i will use the dreaded friction washers on the camsthat should stop the [Fatherless Child] slipping!

now we come to the crank pulley, i do not think that one woodruff key will hold the pulley to the crank so i plan to add some round pins located like keys in three positions as i have read that the supercharger load will sheer the woodruff key on LS cranks and this is the accepted method of fixing it.

this may take some doing as my pulley is aluminum and the crank is cast but if the crank gets a keyway i can make a jig to do my drilling and a sacrificial mild steel collar over the crank so the drill stays straight then remove the collar and replace it with the pulley and drill it again with the jig, lining the jig up each time with the keyway. maybe i will see if i cant use an iron pipe fitting for the collar if it is similarly as hard as the crank.

i have ordered some parts, the cylinders are in very good condition and round, i will just give them a very quick hone, so standard bore forged pistons from wisco and some "H" beam forged rods, all to be balanced, the motor is not going to be a screamer but it is blown so heavy duty is best.

the bearings are perfect and show very little to no wear on the mains and rods but those idiot ford engineer couldn't design a block with a straight crank bore so it may be mix and match on the mains but again its blown so i could just install .001 oversized bearings to get the oil film up as a cushion against detonation, clevite do make them.

the block needs some work with a die grinder and a file to deburr it and chamfer the oil returns then a good cleaning.

we will see if the bearings when installed in the new rods have the right cleaences as they are like new but in a different rod may not be correct.

the head is not so good with 16 bent valves so a reconditioned head was sourced at a cost of $299.00 with cams and lash pre set, although, the cams will have to be removed to install it

i will be fitting a head stud kit and a main stud kit from ARP.

i have ordered an intake gasket from burton in England as it will save me having to make one because the manifold has changed because of the blower and the stock rubber seals won't work.

the timing chain and guides are in very good condition so i will keep them but the tensioner will be changed..

the idea is to build a very strong bottom end that will not fail under boost

anyone who has dabbled with duratecs and could offer some tips. please chime in.

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PostPosted: December 1, 2018, 2:18 am 
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Joined: November 11, 2013, 4:47 am
Posts: 981
Location: No. Nevada
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supercharger load will sheer the woodruff key on LS cranks and this is the accepted method of fixing it.

Uh, what?
I thought LS was Chevy but you seem to be talking Ford? :?

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PostPosted: December 3, 2018, 12:07 am 
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Joined: January 31, 2012, 12:49 pm
Posts: 1524
Location: Louisville KY
I bought an almost-new GM V6 (3500?) a few years ago for like $50 after the key sheared off on the drive shaft. The drive shaft was dinged enough that a new key wasn't gonna fix it w/o cutting a new slot. Oh, and a couple of the pistons had smiles on 'em, the valves bent, etc.

Have to wonder what auto manufacturers are thinking with that key / half moon thing?

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Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.
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PostPosted: December 3, 2018, 9:13 am 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 8:12 am
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Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
geek49023 said
"Have to wonder what auto manufacturers are thinking with that key / half moon thing?"

Every single little engineering change must be approved by purchasing. A beam counter just save .03 cents in machining cost Vs milling the full length of the crank nose for a sq. key.

And he got a bonus at the end of the year!

DaveW


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PostPosted: December 3, 2018, 9:54 am 
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Joined: January 31, 2012, 12:49 pm
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Location: Louisville KY
davew wrote:
Every single little engineering change must be approved by purchasing. A beam counter just save .03 cents in machining cost Vs milling the full length of the crank nose for a sq. key.

And he got a bonus at the end of the year!

DaveW


Having once been the pastor for the SVP-Finance of Ford Mo Co (after he retired) I can tell you that I've met those bean counters. And the senior engineers (one came over to Fords from NASA). The Ford people told me that they know every problem on every vehicle before they're produced... and yes, it's always a cost thing.

Tim

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PostPosted: December 3, 2018, 10:24 am 
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Joined: September 19, 2009, 12:33 pm
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*Mazda engineers :wink:

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